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My ’99 civic had a radiator leak about 45 days ago so I purchased a new Denso rad part # 2213208. It’s a relatively easy install then bled the system after watching Eric’s video. Ever since the install, coolant overflow bottle fills up but does not drain back into the radiator. Here is what I’ve done to trouble shoot the issue:
Pressure tested No Leaks
Head Gasket test Blue fluid did not change color.
Bled System again for about 5 fan cycles
Thermostat is about 18 months old (OEM)
Oil looks clean
Coolant is clean
Bled system again for about another 15-20 minutes, I have the yellow funnel in Eric’s video.Boys I’m starting to get really pissed off, I’m going to check if the car gets heat, in fact I’m going to take a temp reading and post here.
Can the water pump, heater core, or something else be causing this issue? Do I need to do a compression test?
Please help a frustrated lady. :stick:
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Coolant fills the overflow through expansion of the fluid and is drawn back into radiator by vacuum.
You probably have some sort of air leak on the coolant overflow hose with a hole in it or it is not sealed well at the tank or at the new radiator. The cap may also not be working properly or sealing properly to hold vacuum in system to draw back in fluid.
The above is assuming your system is holding pressure with pump up pressure tester on the radiator itself.
The system held a steady 16lbs. I also pressure tested the radiator cap and it held 16 lbs.
BTW heat was 135 degrees from the top vents.I took the hose from rad to overflow off and noticed some cracks. Im going to change the hose tomorrow.
I replaced the 2 hoses for the overflow tank. FYI it is 5/16″ hose.
I hope this works. I also hope Eric can shed some insight into this problem
Thanks AllUnfortunately the temp gauge went up very high while driving about a distance of 25 miles on the highway. I don’t know what the heck I’m missing here. I dont want to take it to a shop because I can’t afford it.
I think my next plan is to return the denso radiator buy a differnt one as well as a new overflow bottle.My guess would be on the radiator cap as that’s what directs coolant into the overflow.
I know you’ve pressure tested it but maybe try replacing it or using the oem one from your old radiator
I tried to replace the cap with the old one but it not not fit. Called Denso CS and they told me the part # cap replcement is Stant 10242. Guess what that did not fit, its the replacement for the original.
Did the new radiator overheat before this point? Why did you originally change radiator? After replacing tubbing to overflow did in draw in coolant? You confirmed new cap holds 16psi. While running at temp can you say water around it and see by bubbles. I see you tested things earlier. No obstructions. Have you checked you water pump for circulation
The car has been running hot on long drives because the coolant is flowing into the recovery bottle and not going back into the radiator. That in essence is the problem that started the different tests.
How do you know if the water pump in circulating coolant? I’m getting good heat. I hope its not the water pump. That is a job I can not do as it entails removing the timing belt etc etc. About 800-1000 dollar job I m sure.
In that case bye Civic.If you have good constant heat, you will be circulating. Check out Eric overheating video. Verify no air leak with soapy water around cap when running at temp. Rebleed system as you may have lost some fluid and sucked air through old overflow hose. I would try this before rad swap.
Why did you change rad in 1st place? Does your upper hose get warm when running? What other clues do you think of?
Original rad changed due to a leak. i will check around the neck with soapy water.
The radiator install is so basic less than 45 minutes. I know i did not make any mistakes.
All hoses are hot and also fairly new.I am not doubting your install ability. I am trying to save you the hassle of changing another one, possibly spending more and having not accomplished any change.
As far as soapy water. I mentioned cap seal to radiator under system pressure, becareful not to overheat.
If truely believe it to be a bad part/ rad. You can try that. Keep us posted as I would love to help and save you a shop expense. Just know parts swapping can cost sometimes too.
Best of luck.
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