Idle Control Valve — clean vs. replace

[robert]

cHoping to find some insights. I have an 2001 Nissan Maxima, 6 cylinder. recently got a po505 message indicating a problem with the Idle Control Valve. I was planning to replace it when a mechanic suggested that i just clean it rather than replace it. He said in his experience about 90+ precent of the time the valve just needed cleaning.

Went online and have watched a couple videos and read a few maxima forum strings.

Here’s the question: is it advisable to try cleaning the idle control valve vs. replacing. i must admit, i love the concept as these puppies are priced like gold… about $200.

question 2: should i be clamping off hoses as I remove them from the idle control valve?

anyone really experienced in this arena.

thanks in advance for your time and help.

and Eric… i’m already dirty.

Topic

[dan]

sometimes the IAC idle air control valve gets clogged up with carbon build up and its passage way can too, if you plan too “clean the valve.” it is also advisable that you clean the throttle body and the passage for the idle air control, depending on how hard it is too clean the throttle body that is, a can of approved throttle body cleaner is less than $200 and shouldn’t hurt too try cleaning the throttle body and IAC with.

[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjibtLY[/video]

now its important too note that if you have electronic throttle control, which you probably don’t have its not a good idea too mess with the throttle like you do with a good old cable throttle as it could require re programming afterwards. but i am sure this doesn’t apply to you, you probably have mechanical linkage and cable controlled throttle.

this video also.
[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMa0nom1iwc[/video]

[Tom]

I don’t have a LOT of experience with this, but some time ago, when my idle seemed very low on my Accord, I pulled out my IACV and discovered that it was absolutely caked up with carbon deposits. I gave it a good cleaning, put it back in, and when I fired my engine up, it was literally idling at the rev limiter, and wouldn’t come back down for anything.

After a mild heart attack, I gave a call to a good friend of mine whom is an ASE certified mechanic, and he told me to pull it back out, and use a small flat head to turn the little “wheel” inside the valve, and clean it more as I turned it. According to him, when they get really clogged up like that, the valve will turn all the way open, and then sit there for so long that it gets stuck with the carbon deposits, and it is necessary to turn it part way back to closed, and clean all around it to get it moving again.

Luckily, he was right, and once I did that, when I started it up again, the idle dropped down nicely, and it has worked fine ever since, probably going on 4 years now.

[dan]

:woohoo: well i am glad you told him that, it is never good for a engine too scream at redline at a cold start! i have never experienced that myself, but a good tip you gave!

[Chris]

[quote=”thefranks5″ post=105060]cHoping to find some insights. I have an 2001 Nissan Maxima….

these puppies are priced like gold… about $200.

[/quote]
That sounds like a dealer price. I searched ‘2001 Nissan Maxima icv’ and it gave me several ebay results first in which the IAC is less than $50. Hopefully those are the cporrect part for you if the cleaning does not work.

[Lorrin Barth]

My experience with cleaning idle air control valves is that cleaning would often temporarily fix the problem but it always came back. Replacemet was the more permanent cure.

[Tom]

Cost of cleaning $5 can of throttle body spray
cost of replacing $50 to $200 depending on quality of replacement part

I’d try cleaning it first, you aren’t out a whole lot if it still doesn’t work.

[dan]

that is my exact thinking.

[Author]

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