I want to ask the Honda techs: Is this head secure

[Joseph C]

I want to ask the Honda techs, start new.. I have a head on my block. I am slightly worried. The reason is contained herein this here video.

Should I be concerned this engine will perform properly, based on what you see?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJXHWhznxmo

For when I actually tightened them last night, I used the proper sequence.

Head Bolt Torque Sequences & Specifications – HondaCivicForum.com

Star pattern, starting with front middle stud, then back middle bolt, outward.

D15Z1 & D16Z6

Torque Sequence:

8 6 2 4 10
9 3 1 5 7
(front of car)

In 2 steps:

1. 22 lb-ft
2. 53 lb-ft

I did more than 2 steps. I went up in increments of about 10ft-lbs on the wrench. So I did so about 6 times.

For demonstrating the wrench “clicking,” I didn’t do that, since, already torqued.

Topic

[James O’Hara]

That light clicking you here is either the head of the bolt cutting into the cylinder head or threads letting go. It also seems a lot easier to turn then the others. If you are 100% positive that you hit every bolt in order and did not miss one (Btw a piece of paper with the order and putting hash marks for each pass helps with this) it is most likely the bolt stretching or the threads giving out. In which case you would need to go bigger but, whether you will hit a water jacket or oil passage I do not know enough about the block to tell you. It is honestly always very hard to judge from a video. If you do go bigger get a bigger bolt make sure it is fine thread and the tap you use is fine thread. It can be metric just make sure it has a high thread per mm.

Needless to say something you already have realized is if you do not fix it you are going to have issues. It may take time or fail right away but, the head will warp, the gasket will fail and you will have a head gasket leak only this time the cylinder head will be warped and you may not be able to get it to be flat again. You also may crack the cylinder head from unequal expansion from heat.

My suggestion is take all the bolts out in sequence backing them off and buy new bolts/gasket. Clean the threads of both off with breakleen and blow out the hole using computer dust compressed air can. and use a flashlight and look in the hole and at the bolt. If you are lucky the bolt stretched. If it seizes on the way out you know the threads are bad but, there is also a chance of snapping the bolt off. I suggest you use a little penetrating oil on it after you get the head of the bolt up a little to help prevent that from happening.

If it wasn’t something important or something that was sealing something you might be able to get away with it. I still wouldn’t but….

[zero]

Considering the amount of effort you appear to be putting into that particular fastener versus the others, I’m under the impression that for whatever reason you just aren’t getting the same click on that bolt. Watching the video, every time you start to apply pressure you can hear it. For example at 0:31 and 0:41 the second you start to put pressure on it you can hear a single almost half click. Are you 100% sure that your hand isn’t impeding the action? Or that you can’t feel the bit of “break-away” movement in the head of the ratchet at the torque setting.

I had one of the lube monkeys helping me one day. I was putting a head on and was at the point of installing the chain. So I set me torque wrench to something like 100 in/lbs, about 10 ft lbs, and direct him to torque the tensioner he just put on. He takes the wrench and just goes to give ‘er. He looks at me and asks why it hasn’t clicked yet. Well, it hasn’t clicked because it clicked as soon after you started to apply pressure. From your other videos, you don’t seem to be a small guy so it really doesn’t take much to go past 50 ft/lbs. Even on a short handle like your torque wrench has.

Torquing the other bolts, you should be able to gauge if you are using more or less than those that appear to be torquing properly. Try going down to the 22ft/lb spec and slowly work up to see exactly where you are. Again using the last spec as a gauge to “feel” how much torque you are applying. You have to be gentle when dealing with expensive parts that require exacting specifications. Suspension, hammer and pry away. Internal engine work, imagine your a doctor.

[Daniel Beaird]

I’ve seen this with dry head bolts before, they seem tighter than they really are because they are “sticking” from friction. Try re-torquing the bolts this time lube not only the threads of the bolts but the heads of the bolts and the washers with a light coat of engine oil. Also make sure to chase the threads in the block with a tap and blow out with air. This will allow even torquing without them sticking or popping as they are tightened. Some manufacturers even tell you to do this when torquing head bolts especially torque to yield or stretch bolts.

DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT SQUIRT OIL INTO THE BOLT HOLES! This will cause hydro-locking and could crack the block.

[Jules]

keep tightening it until it clicks. if it keeps on going then the thread is loss.

according to my experience before is that the vehicle has experienced extreme overheating. that’s why i retorque the head bolts (with the engine cold) and 3 headbolts can’t be tightened to a specified torque because the thread is loss.so i pull-down the cylinder head and check for warpage the results was bad, so we send it to the machine shop for resurfacing and also the block for re-threading.

[Author]

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