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HVAC system

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  • #851455
    Donald HollumsDonald Hollums
    Participant

      2002 Ford Econo!line 350 15 passenger van w/ rear air. The HVAC system only blows from the vents at the base of the windshield or from underneath the dash, nothing from the dash vents no matter what setting the system is on. What would need to be checked and how is it accessed?

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    • #851460
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        see if this helps.

        #851461
        Nightflyr *Richard Kirshy
        Participant

          Could be one of three things: door itself, drive motor OR the dashboard mounted temp control.
          For a 2004 (which should be similar…)

          Remove the kick panels just below the passengers side dash–it should just pop off. Next there should be a bolted structure which holds the kick panel—six 8mm headed bolts and it falls off—set it aside. Looking at the heater box you’ll see chromate screws surrounding the box which holds the outer shell to the inner—-should be 7-10—not sure how many now. Most are easily accessible with 1/4″ drive extensions, one or two better removed with a universal joint on the extension. It should be easy to dislodge the two halves but you’ll encounter a bit of a restriction that’s easily overcome.

          The heater box plastic is quite flexible and simply yanking on it does the trick. Its highly unlikely you’ll do any damage to the outer half but proceed somewhat slowly but forcefully. Once this is out of the way you should be see the heater core and blend door—drive motor is on the right hand side of the inner box shell. At this point my memory is fuzzy whether the core needs to be removed in order to replace the door but its a distinct possibilty—

          The Quick Connect fittings can be a bear to uncouple so after struggling too long with them they may be simply “destroyed” the accessible plastic bits and slid the hoses off the core which is the only way to completely remove it. (As it turns out these pesky Quick Connects can be replaced with standard hose clamps of the worm screw type. The new plastic bits are also typically available from Ford at a cost of about $30—)

          Given the year and mileage might consider changing the heater core, drive motor and blend door since it was already apart.

          #851462
          Donald HollumsDonald Hollums
          Participant

            Much obliged, Nightflyr. The job almost appears to be more than a shade-tree mechanic should get in to, but it’s worth a look.

            #851464
            Jake FJake F
            Participant

              Had the same problem on my sedan years ago. I ghetto rigged the rod with a healthy layer of duct tape and it grabbed the blend door. Access was through the radio cluster but Ford never makes thing easy so it’s probably through the glove box. If you can hear slight ‘motor’ noise happening when you switch through controls, your motor is still healthy. Sounds like the teeth aren’t grabbing anymore, but I know less than jack about american-made.

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