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How to tell if AC Compressor “Grenaded”

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here How to tell if AC Compressor “Grenaded”

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  • #536939
    MarkMark
    Participant

      Hi Guys,

      I have a 2004 Honda CR-V that has a seized AC compressor according to the dealer. As the dealer wanted $1600 for an aftermarket compressor I found one at Carquest for $350 and am planning to try to install it myself. The system is at half charge according to the dealer. It is recommended that the dryer element is replaced also with the compressor, so I am planning to do this, although the system has not remained open to the atmosphere as far as I know. Some people on the Internet (Autozone YouTube video) (as well as the warranty instructions that came with the compressor) are recommending that the entire system including the evaporator is flushed with a special solvent and a flushing gun when the compressor is replaced. I would rather not do this unless necessary as it would increase the work by a lot I expect. Another factor is that CR-Vs of this era have been known to “grenade” the compressor throughout the system, which would require a good flushing (and maybe an expansion valve replacement) as a minimum. When the system failed there was no noise heard. It just stopped blowing cold and the end of the compressor was seen to not be spinning. I am hoping that the compressor simply seized without releasing debris into the system.

      So my question is, is there a good way to determine if there is any compressor debris in the system. In the Autozone video, it is shown that debris can be observed at the condenser input filter. I am not sure if the CR-V has such a filter, or if the dryer element inside the condenser serves the same purpose.

      PS I am by no means highly knowledgeable in AC system repair but I am a big do-it-your-selfer who is trying to learn how to deal with auto AC systems thanks to all the good information now available.

      We need to take this vehicle on a long trip in two weeks.

      Whatever info you can provide will be much appreciated.

      Thanks.

    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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    • #536940
      davedave
      Participant

        I think the best way to tell is to check for all kinds of debris in the orifice tube… which should be replaced anyway as part of the compressor R&R.

        #536948
        MarkMark
        Participant

          Thanks for the response. That helps to point me in the right direction. My Haynes manual didn’t mention an orifice tube (or an evaporator or expansion valve for that matter). Researching another forum, it looks like the CR-V has a expansion valve instead of an orifice tube (a vehicle would have one or the other apparently). Another forum poster said that he always replaces the expansion valve for a compressor replacement as this would be a common problem if debris is present. If I have to get at the expansion valve and the evaporator and then flush the whole system, this is going to turn into a crazy big job. With our road trip coming, this is going to be a marathon, but what doesn’t kill you…

          Thanks again for your help.

          #536967
          richiepearcerichiepearce
          Participant

            I would like to add, you should get your ac system emptied at a garage rather than releasing the refrigerant into the atmosphere.

            #536985
            MarkMark
            Participant

              Thanks. I’m definitely going to get it removed properly. It is the right thing to do. Taking care of the planet in small ways adds up. It’s nice to know other people take care too.

              #536988
              JamesB1985JamesB1985
              Participant

                Ok so there’s actually a Honda Technical Service Bulletin on this problem. In it they recommend basically replacing the whole A/c System.

                But for your question on how to tell if the system is contaminated, this is how you do it..
                First you have to remove the refrigerant from the system. Then you remove both lines at the A/C compressor, the one closest to the pulley is the suction line, the other is the discharge line.

                Swabbing the inside of the discharge line tells you if you need to replace the compressor but I think you already know you have to replace the compressor. But if you swab around on the inside of the hose passage on the suction port of the compressor and find any metal particles or any dark gray or black residue, this indicates the whole system is contaminated and needs to be replaced as a whole. Condenser, receiver/dryer, suction/discharge lines, expansion valve etc. etc. etc. – Yes a big job indeed.

                #537015
                MarkMark
                Participant

                  I would just examine the expansion valve and see if any debris is stuck in it.
                  defiantly have the system evacuated at a shop.
                  you can buy the necessary tools to pull a vacuum and recharge the system (don’t use any stop leak refrigerant) or you can have a shop recharge it. I would recharge with dye just in case there is a leak from the repair or later on down the road.
                  Anyway if your new at this I would allow a good amount of time to tackle the job.

                  #610519
                  Johnathan MontoyaJohnathan Montoya
                  Participant

                    To OP, were you able to tell if the compressor imploded? Im in the same shoes that you were. Also does anyone know if the compressors at advance auto parts will work better than these poorly designed OEM ones?

                    #610521
                    Lorrin BarthLorrin Barth
                    Participant

                      I’d suggest a vacation with the windows down. Then you have the remainder of the summer to deal with the A/C problem.

                    Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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