How To Replace Rear Disc Brakes (Full)

[Paul]

Thank you for the Honda rear disk brake video. I change my rear brake pad on my 2006 Honda Accord yesterday.

I don’t have the welding equipment and old distributor which I can make the tool that your made. But I found a $15 tools at Canadian Tire store which I like to share with your subscribers – Powerbuilt 1-1/2-in. Rear Brake Disc Caliper Tool. It works like the tool which you made.

Topic

[dreamer2355]

I fixed your post for you.

[EricTheCarGuy]

I’m glad you liked the video, that’s actually one of my favorites. Thanks for the comment.

[Paul]

The Powerbuilt Caliper Tool does not work properly without modification.

From the above photo, the tool is not thick enough. The socket extension bar is sticking out too much. This prevents the tool from engaging the caliper piston.

I put a plastic tab (blue) to stop the extension bar from sticking out.

Attachments:

• CaliperToolwithoutplasticwasher.jpg
• CaliperToolwithplasticwasher.jpg

[Paul]

I just watched your Acura rear caliper replacement video. What do I need to check on the parking brake, cable etc during the rear brake pad replacement?

[Mike]

I have a 2007 Chevy trail blazer and replaced the left rear caliper it was stuck just like the Acura. When I tried to bleed the brakes it wouldn’t let me bleed either side of the rear disk brakes. So is the ABS system holding me back from bleeding them?

Thanks,

Mike

[EricTheCarGuy]

As for the parking brake cables on Honda’s look to see if the lever for the cable is not at rest. An easy way to check this is to disconnect the cable and see if the lever snaps back. If it does then the cable is sticking or misadjusted. Most times what I find is the center mount above the exhaust shield has rusted in an awkward position causing one side to pull more than the other. Sometimes some penetrating oil and some elbow grease can cure this. If you take the cable off and the caliper arm stays in the same position and won’t move then replace the caliper. Many times I fins that the connection at the caliper lever itself gets rusted up. In this case I clean the pin with a wire wheel then reinstall it with a little anti-sieze and that usually takes care of the problem.

Good question!

[Paul]

What is the purpose of hitting the philips screw driver with a hammer (@2:51) after installing the new rotor?

[EricTheCarGuy]

It’s an impact driver, that’s how the tool is used.

[quote=”TechGuy8″ post=36578]What is the purpose of hitting the philips screw driver with a hammer (@2:51) after installing the new rotor?[/quote]

[EricTheCarGuy]

That one probably needs to be bled with a scan tool. Some newer GM products require this procedure when you bleed the brakes.

[quote=”capman911″ post=36184]I have a 2007 Chevy trail blazer and replaced the left rear caliper it was stuck just like the Acura. When I tried to bleed the brakes it wouldn’t let me bleed either side of the rear disk brakes. So is the ABS system holding me back from bleeding them?

Thanks,

Mike[/quote]

[Goobe]

Why do you say in the video the tool should never be turned anti clockwise? Would there be any damage? I think natural tendency is to turn it backwards when some thing is stuck or does does not work in the clockwise turn!

[Goobe]

Keep it coming more! You have also covered the perepheral subjects usefully, succinctly yet clearly! thank you very much.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”Signals” post=58225]Why do you say in the video the tool should never be turned anti clockwise? Would there be any damage? I think natural tendency is to turn it backwards when some thing is stuck or does does not work in the clockwise turn![/quote]

If you turned it in that direction you would not be turning it in but rather outward. Once you get past a certain point doing this the piston will disconnect from the mechanism and the fluid will leak out creating another situation altogether. If you’re replacing brake pads you’re going to want to turn the piston ‘in’ not ‘out’.

[Author]

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