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In the Toyota service manual for a 2AZ-FE engine (in my case a 2009 Pontiac Vibe, but its the same as the Camry 2.4l engine) it basically has you do the bleeding through the overflow tank with the radiator cap closed. Otherwise the steps are the same. Is that a valid method for any car with an overflow tank if you don’t have one of those fancy funnels, or is it specific to this engine?
I remember doing a rad on my 1995 accord EX-R and my Sisters 97 2.2 CL at the same time because they were the same part number.. Basically the same car. I love that CL. The 3.0 was pretty quick for its day, its a shame about that tranny tho.
Since I’ve done that something I notice on every car (Hondas) I have owned is that both the cooling fans are quite a bit different. One is a 4 blade and its a little farther out, and one is a 5 blade and is a little farther in. They always operate together, why the difference? I have no idea. Something Ive always wondered.
Edit: That Red 2.2CL looked in excellent shape. what was the deal? Engine looked brand new!
With an automatic climate control, when bleeding the system the temperature should be set at its maximum and the blower off (which is not possible with the automatic climate control), so instead you turn the system off. My question is what makes the heater control valve stay open even with the system off?
I have a question about brass/copper radiators vs. aluminum. Since Honda engines are all aluminum, will using a brass/copper aftermarket radiator (I know they’re substandard, but I am unfortunately stuck with one) cause engine corrosion through electrolysis or galvanic corrosion?
Which coolant will better protect from corrosion of the engine and radiator in this combination?
Early 90s Hondas had brass/copper radiators at the time.
Thanks.
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