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Thanks Evryone in this forum This is my first time:
I folow Eric on Youtube.
The question is:
What tool I need to reprogram the ECU on a Mazda CX7 2007 2.3L Turbo Gran Touring VIN = JM3ER293170113882. I need someting that works with multiple vehicles and that is affortable. Never done this before but I’m Not new to fixin cars.
Litter History:
My intention is not to diagnost the problem but will give you some background:
This is my Grilfrien Car a few month back the battery died. I took it to AutoZone and got a new one. The positive terminal didn’t grap to good and with time became more loose (To the point that my girlfrind said that the pannel went crazy). in the last Oil Change I replece the therminal with a new one No loose therminal anymore. after that the Idle was bad (I clean Throtlle body). This month I replace the altenator because it was putting low charge and the battery wont hold more than 11 Volts(so a new battery onder waranty). Now I have a Code P0126 acoording to Alldata this is because the ECT don’t get to 160 degrees F. I hooke my scanner displayng Live Data and the computer reports that the ECT go up to 179 and down to 158 and the code stills comes up so this is not Logical to me. I still nee to do more testing of the ECT and the Thermostat but I’m Incline to think the loose Terminal may have damege the computer. Their is also a boletin about needing to reflash the computer because some P codes not true and Bad Idle being present. Also every time the battery have bean desconected the switch that actuate the windows on the driver side won’t work properly and after a few weeks they start to work wright Like I said I need to do more testing but I’ve alway wanted to know how to reflash the computer and learne to change parameters to improve performance.
Thanks Evrybody for the help in the matter.
David…
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Replies
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[quote=”carattini” post=34482]Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?[/quote]
They’re not dealer only, it’s VCM/IDS, but they are cost prohibitive, the software being the large chunk.
I’ve not actually tried to purchase one from china directly, as the <$400 seem more than a bit "shady". Although I will likely roll those dice in the future as having even a knock-off of the rotunda tool and software would be worth getting taken once possibly. But I of course wouldn't recommend it. The units for the "true" ones are all made in China anyhow of course, I'm betting more than a few get this under the table treatment, but the software interface needed that gets packaged doesn't appear (to me) to be properly licensed. The true ones are like a couple grand for the base tool package (far higher for notebook and other accessories), NOT including the IDS software subscription.
A few get sold on ebay, but the going rate (for the non-clone knockoffs) is still at the “ow, quit it” level, as an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Rotunda-VCM2-Diagnostic-Module-Factory-Tool-w-wireless-Key-Programing-etc-/221123373146
Oh this even gets better… those ids/vcm systems are Chinese clones that look and feel the same but are not authentic. In one of my recent case files I found a Guy with one that attempted to do bi directional testing and fried a transistor in the pcm. Another clone too erased all programing without an option to program.
[quote=”jacobnbr1″ post=34650]In one of my recent case files I found a Guy with one that attempted to do bi directional testing and fried a transistor in the pcm. Another clone too erased all programing without an option to program.[/quote]
If you’re saying this is from personal experience, then I won’t even bother with the clone I listed later. Figured those would be too good to be true.
Just FYI for the original poster.
There ARE other on-the-level options to re-flash a PCM yourself. The cost is still ridiculous in comparison to having the dealer do it for you though if you’re only going to do this to 1 vehicle. IOW still around the $1.2k mark.
And this is with the assumption (usually incorrectly) that the EEPROM doesn’t have a hardware issue that caused it to lose the information to begin with. If there’s damage, or some issue with the flash-able memory it won’t be able to be flashed properly until it’s replaced altogether anyhow.
[quote=”dreamer2355″ post=34573][quote=”carattini” post=34482]Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?
Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?
Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)
Thanks Very much[/quote]
The IDS is a dealer only scan tool unfortunately.
As for the code P0126, you can ohm out the ECT without a scan tool. As the temperature increases, the resistance should decrease or increase depending on the ECT sensor type (PTC or NTC). You would need to cross reference these readings with a chart to see how ‘hot’ the coolant really is.
With a scan tool that shows PID data, you could look at the ECT readings and disconnect the sensor. You should see a reading in the negative range. Also when disconnected, you can jumper that connector and the readings on the scan tool should show 200F+ range.
That will check the integrity of the ECT circuit providing its a 2 wire design.
If the readings do not change, you may have a wiring issue.
I would make sure you have a OEM thermostat installed as that seems to be a common issue with later model Mazda’s with that same code.
I would also on a cold engine, monitor (again with a scan tool that shows PID data) your IAT and ECT readings. They both should be within a few degree’s of each other.[/quote]
Thanks Very much for the info.
PID = Live Data on my scanner?
Will check this and get back to you
Apology for the delay but I just found the pages numbers to see this post
David…
[quote=”jacobnbr1″ post=34591]Reflash? Sure I can help.. First off to correct a comment from another user you cannot adjust program files that would reflect an illegal program as Mazda will not allow those changes. You need a windows vista laptop, flasher pro or equivalent, valid subscription to Mazda service information and if the vehicle has a transponder key you will need a PIN number from Mazda to allow registration of those keys and then the tool to interface with the theft module to input the PIN and register the keys with theft.
All in all you will spend about $6000.00 for a service the dealer will charge $150.00 tops.
How bad does the $150.00 sound now?[/quote]
Thanks for the Info Jacob It was not my intention to upset you.
David…
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=34604]http://www.ehow.com/list_7349269_automotive-computer-reprogramming-tools.html[/quote]
Thanks for the links will check it out…
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=34639]Great Post. I Like![/quote]
Im Glad you like it. Hope I can Fix it.
David…
[quote=”Wayne613″ post=34645][quote=”carattini” post=34482]Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?[/quote]
They’re not dealer only, it’s VCM/IDS, but they are cost prohibitive, the software being the large chunk.
I’ve not actually tried to purchase one from china directly, as the <$400 seem more than a bit "shady". Although I will likely roll those dice in the future as having even a knock-off of the rotunda tool and software would be worth getting taken once possibly. But I of course wouldn't recommend it. The units for the "true" ones are all made in China anyhow of course, I'm betting more than a few get this under the table treatment, but the software interface needed that gets packaged doesn't appear (to me) to be properly licensed. The true ones are like a couple grand for the base tool package (far higher for notebook and other accessories), NOT including the IDS software subscription.
A few get sold on ebay, but the going rate (for the non-clone knockoffs) is still at the “ow, quit it” level, as an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Rotunda-VCM2-Diagnostic-Module-Factory-Tool-w-wireless-Key-Programing-etc-/221123373146%5B/quote%5D
Thanks for the info.
David…
[quote=”jacobnbr1″ post=34650]Oh this even gets better… those ids/vcm systems are Chinese clones that look and feel the same but are not authentic. In one of my recent case files I found a Guy with one that attempted to do bi directional testing and fried a transistor in the pcm. Another clone too erased all programing without an option to program.[/quote]
:woohoo:
[quote=”Wayne613″ post=34823]Just FYI for the original poster.
There ARE other on-the-level options to re-flash a PCM yourself. The cost is still ridiculous in comparison to having the dealer do it for you though if you’re only going to do this to 1 vehicle. IOW still around the $1.2k mark.
And this is with the assumption (usually incorrectly) that the EEPROM doesn’t have a hardware issue that caused it to lose the information to begin with. If there’s damage, or some issue with the flash-able memory it won’t be able to be flashed properly until it’s replaced altogether anyhow.[/quote]
Hi Wayne that is exactly the one I’m looking at, I figured that I could reflash for a fee to get the money back later but maybe I just pay the dealer.
Thanks for the post…
[quote=”carattini” post=35343][quote=”dreamer2355″ post=34573][quote=”carattini” post=34482]Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?
Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?
Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)
Thanks Very much[/quote]
The IDS is a dealer only scan tool unfortunately.
As for the code P0126, you can ohm out the ECT without a scan tool. As the temperature increases, the resistance should decrease or increase depending on the ECT sensor type (PTC or NTC). You would need to cross reference these readings with a chart to see how ‘hot’ the coolant really is.
With a scan tool that shows PID data, you could look at the ECT readings and disconnect the sensor. You should see a reading in the negative range. Also when disconnected, you can jumper that connector and the readings on the scan tool should show 200F+ range.
That will check the integrity of the ECT circuit providing its a 2 wire design.
If the readings do not change, you may have a wiring issue.
I would make sure you have a OEM thermostat installed as that seems to be a common issue with later model Mazda’s with that same code.
I would also on a cold engine, monitor (again with a scan tool that shows PID data) your IAT and ECT readings. They both should be within a few degree’s of each other.[/quote]
Thanks Very much for the info.
PID = Live Data on my scanner?
Will check this and get back to you
Apology for the delay but I just found the pages numbers to see this post
David…[/quote]
This Morning I took a laser Thermomether an took Water Pump Temp and Radiator Temp it was 80 F plug my scanner and read live data with the engine Off it was 80 F.
I start the engine and the scanner read TEMP Raising. Compare with the lase Termomether and it sim to report good.
But the Temp on the radiator Stay the same Probably because the Thermostat hasen’t Open Yet.
When the temp on the scanner display 170 F the Radiator Temp start to raise and the Temp on the scanner start to drop a litter.
My conclution is that the ECT and the Thermostat are working Good. I kept the scanner plug and told My Girlfriend to monitor the temp on her way to work. she reported that it stay between 163 F and 199 F
No code on this trip. but when the code is not present the computer needs tow trips to put the code back so will monitor her trip back to see if the code comes up again.
Just the update…
David…
New Update:
I gave my scanner to my Girlfrind so it can records Live Data when a code comes up. so far no code has come up. But yesterday before she could plug the scanner in she say that she heard a bad sound and when she start to drive will not shift out of third.She call me an told her to drive it in manual mode but will not change so I told her to park out of the road and check for codes with the scanner she got U00073 something about fal to comunicate with some module.
I told her to turn off the car then to put the ignition on the on, to erase the code with the scanner an to start. after that everything whent back to normal with the exception that the stereo’s speakers would not work even when the radio did.
She got to me and parked and nex time she turne it on the seaker works. and no problem since
I still think the computer is acting weard.
David…
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