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Thanks Evryone in this forum This is my first time:
I folow Eric on Youtube.
The question is:
What tool I need to reprogram the ECU on a Mazda CX7 2007 2.3L Turbo Gran Touring VIN = JM3ER293170113882. I need someting that works with multiple vehicles and that is affortable. Never done this before but I’m Not new to fixin cars.
Litter History:
My intention is not to diagnost the problem but will give you some background:
This is my Grilfrien Car a few month back the battery died. I took it to AutoZone and got a new one. The positive terminal didn’t grap to good and with time became more loose (To the point that my girlfrind said that the pannel went crazy). in the last Oil Change I replece the therminal with a new one No loose therminal anymore. after that the Idle was bad (I clean Throtlle body). This month I replace the altenator because it was putting low charge and the battery wont hold more than 11 Volts(so a new battery onder waranty). Now I have a Code P0126 acoording to Alldata this is because the ECT don’t get to 160 degrees F. I hooke my scanner displayng Live Data and the computer reports that the ECT go up to 179 and down to 158 and the code stills comes up so this is not Logical to me. I still nee to do more testing of the ECT and the Thermostat but I’m Incline to think the loose Terminal may have damege the computer. Their is also a boletin about needing to reflash the computer because some P codes not true and Bad Idle being present. Also every time the battery have bean desconected the switch that actuate the windows on the driver side won’t work properly and after a few weeks they start to work wright Like I said I need to do more testing but I’ve alway wanted to know how to reflash the computer and learne to change parameters to improve performance.
Thanks Evrybody for the help in the matter.
David…
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Lets put a pin in the computer reflash or replacement for the moment. So you have a check engine light for a coolant temp sensor and you’ve had issues with the battery connections which caused some electrical issues. As for the reflash I can’t help as I’m not a Mazda expert however it might not be a bad idea to make sure those connections at the battery are good as poor battery connections can cause all kinds of issues with modern vehicles. Perhaps go through the troubleshooting for the coolant temp sensor as there may be something in the wiring that’s causing the issue. Either way I would start at the battery and charging system to make sure that’s working as good as it can first.
Thanks very much But I just fix that:
It Has a New Battery and a New Alternator a new Baterry Terminals.
As for the Thermostat the computer Live Data Display Very Logic Values. What I need to test is the Thermostat it self wich will do this weekend.
The problem is that the computer is thowing P0126 that translate to that it never reach 160F while the Live Data on the scanner Display Temp between 150 to 179 F (That Part is what don’t make sence)
Thanks Again for your Time.
here is a link to help.
[quote=”carattini” post=34222]Their is also a boletin about needing to reflash the computer because some P codes not true and Bad Idle being present. Also every time the battery have bean desconected the switch that actuate the windows on the driver side won’t work properly and after a few weeks they start to work wright Like I said I need to do more testing but I’ve alway wanted to know how to reflash the computer and learne to change parameters to improve performance.
Thanks Evrybody for the help in the matter.
David…[/quote]
Unless you know what you are doing with reprogramming the computer, if you change the parameters in the program for the vehicle’s computer to change it’s performance it may be illegal and you may end up with a vehicle you have to take in to a dealer to have reprogrammed. It would probably cost well over $1000 for a tool capable of programming your vehicle.
Check to see if there may have been a recall on the vehicle for re flash of the computer to solve a performance problem.
Thanks Very Much for your Input:
My intention is not to modify parameters just to Update the complete programming with an actual vertion from factory.
But the reason I’m Willing to invest in the tool is that I’ll want to learn to modify parametters and have a better performance on my vehicles.
The tool that I’m Looking at is 70-1100 FLASH2 but need to sell one of my cars to get it, was hoping somebody have a cheeper alternative.
I check and their is a bulletin for a reflash but it is not a recall and I think they will charge for it.
Thanks again for taking the time to help.
David…
You will probably need a Ford IDS scan tool to reflash that PCM.
I would also be undertaking allot of voltage drop testing on that vehicle and checking your powers and grounds.
Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?
Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?
Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)
Thanks Very much
Well to be honest that’s beyond my scope as I stick to repair and stay away from such modifications as I haven’t seen much benefit from the. I’d be curious as to what your results are however so keep us posted.
[quote=”carattini” post=34482]Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?
Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?
Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)
Thanks Very much[/quote]
The IDS is a dealer only scan tool unfortunately.
As for the code P0126, you can ohm out the ECT without a scan tool. As the temperature increases, the resistance should decrease or increase depending on the ECT sensor type (PTC or NTC). You would need to cross reference these readings with a chart to see how ‘hot’ the coolant really is.
With a scan tool that shows PID data, you could look at the ECT readings and disconnect the sensor. You should see a reading in the negative range. Also when disconnected, you can jumper that connector and the readings on the scan tool should show 200F+ range.
That will check the integrity of the ECT circuit providing its a 2 wire design.
If the readings do not change, you may have a wiring issue.
I would make sure you have a OEM thermostat installed as that seems to be a common issue with later model Mazda’s with that same code.
I would also on a cold engine, monitor (again with a scan tool that shows PID data) your IAT and ECT readings. They both should be within a few degree’s of each other.
Reflash? Sure I can help.. First off to correct a comment from another user you cannot adjust program files that would reflect an illegal program as Mazda will not allow those changes. You need a windows vista laptop, flasher pro or equivalent, valid subscription to Mazda service information and if the vehicle has a transponder key you will need a PIN number from Mazda to allow registration of those keys and then the tool to interface with the theft module to input the PIN and register the keys with theft.
All in all you will spend about $6000.00 for a service the dealer will charge $150.00 tops.
How bad does the $150.00 sound now?
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