How To Rebuild a Front Brake Caliper

[EricTheCarGuy]

Another one in the Fairmont series. Yes, my piston was corroded, yes the bleeder valve is still messed up. Remember, I’m not keeping this brake system, it’s only temporary. Otherwise, what did you think?

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[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”Bunkerman” post=96796]Really enjoyed this video.I’ve given the link to a friend who is about to attempt a rebuild on his 2005 mk3 Ford Mondeo. The ford Contour was the us version of the mk 2 mondeo ,to give an idea of the kind of vehicle.

Since working in my current job,at a power station a couple of the mechanics there have turned me on to red rubber grease.In the video you say to only use brake fluid to lubricate the o ring and piston etc. I’ve used red rubber grease for this a few times where brake fluid alone would perhaps have had me use more pressure than I’d have liked to get everything back together.

Red rubber grease is vegetable oil based,safe on rubber seals and is designed for rubber to rubber and rubber to metal contact applications. It also doesn’t react with brake fluid. The mechanics use it mainly when rebuilding the transmissions in CAT D8 and D9 Bulldozers used 24/7 to shove coal. I was also told it was very useful as a way to temporarily hold fiddly seals in place to stop them going cock eyed and rolling up etc.

The way you show is ideal,just wanted to share something that may help. Heard about silicone paste for slide pins from you. I was using rather expensive synthetic brake “grease” before. Silicone seems to stay on there much longer. No more nearly dry slide pins now when I change pads. I drive a diesel car (heavy front end) which chews through front tyres (even wear) and front pads at a fast rate.

Thanks for the videos mate. They’re a real confidence inspirer. Your next car should be a common rail diesel. It would keep you in video ideas for years… Trust me. :-)[/quote]

As long as it isn’t petroleum based and it doesn’t contaminate the brake fluid I suppose it’s fine. I’m cautious about presenting things like that because it needs to be so specific. If someone gets the wrong thing, there goes the rebuild. If I say “only use brake fluid”, then they can’t get into trouble.

Thanks for your input.

[Nick]

Darn, you were literally a day or 2 to late with this video for me.

I guess if you don’t have the air tools you could expel the piston on the car with brake hose clamp at the ready.

I rebuilt one of my rear calipers after investigating a low speed squeak on my car which revealed a torn dust cap, enough to let some dirt and moisture in. It wasn’t full on binding like yours. But the wheel on the other side was running more freely. It’s best to sort it out early if you catch it early, before it becomes a real big problem.

That said the rear calipers aren’t that much different except it was easier in my case to use the handbrake lever to get the piston out and wind it back in, I had no corrosion, so polishing grade sand paper and brake cleaner was enough to clean up the piston. As i was going for tip top condition after cleaning it up I had to find somewhere clean ( and a clean pair of hands too) to finish the job fit the new seal and lube the piston up with red rubber grease. Plastic modeling tools are fantastic for handling new seals without the danger of damaging them.

It’s also noteworthy that on modern cars with a brake servo, you should expect a spongier brake pedal while the seal(s) break in.

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