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[quote=”jeb721″ post=51774]In this video Eric talks about preps before starting this test. When he talks about the computer does a bunch of stuff when you open the door, I wana know what cars do this? Does my 2008 Ridgeline?
What do they exactly test?[/quote]jeb,
what Eric is saying is that when a door is opened, the door switch also signals the PCM to ‘wake up’. The PCM then does different basic functional status checks depending on the vehicle’s sensors and options. Almost all OBDII cars with a PCM do this to some extent, so your Ridgeline likely does also. I don’t know of any way to bypass thisIndeed your Ridgeline does this very thing. There is a separate computer the BCM or Body Control Module that does things like turn on the dome light among other things. Once this happens it can take 20-30 min for it to ‘go to sleep’ so that you can take an accurate test.
Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Im trying to diagnose a small problem with my remote starter. This will help a lot.
Well this one is working good, the only issue is that if I turn the vehicle off after driving it, when I hit the remote start its wont hold the starter on long enough. the second try it will start. Small problem, I think I give up with it.
Cold starts are fine. It actually came on the second hand ridgeline I bought from a Honda dealer in Halifax. I don’t exactly agree with letting your vehicle sitting there idling for no reason other than to warm in the interior. I prefer to drive it nicely to warm it up. In my climate where it can get down to -50 (no wind chill mind you) its always nice to let it warm up for 5 minutes before trying to drive it. Driving a vehicle at -50 is a whole other story. You wouldn’t believe how stiff everything is.
Back in the day…well in the 80’s anyway, I used to use an automotive test light to do the same thing you do with the DVOM, of course you can get a really cheap DVOM at any auto parts store now a days, and a test light won’t tell you the exact measurement of the draw, but the light intensity is a good indication of a draw vs business a usual. I really enjoy your series of videos, I have always wanted to do something similar, but have been out of the auto industry for some time now. I have referenced your info for some of the things I haven’t dealt with in years, like filling the auto trans on a Toyota 4runner. When I left the auto industry, I took the next logical step in auto technology and became an electrical engineer, so I may get back to cars again, when more of the systems will require a better understanding of electronics. Thanks for the great info. Best of luck to you.
Dave
Hey eric, I was wondering what the part number was on the blue point meter you used in this. Been doing more and more draw test in my shop lately and my meter isn’t cutting it. Looking for something that can be hooked up with amps running through it for an extended period of time so i can pull fuses. Better yet if you know of a meter that can do it that I can get cheaper, that would be awesome. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
[quote=”ShopTech” post=99509]Hey eric, I was wondering what the part number was on the blue point meter you used in this. Been doing more and more draw test in my shop lately and my meter isn’t cutting it. Looking for something that can be hooked up with amps running through it for an extended period of time so i can pull fuses. Better yet if you know of a meter that can do it that I can get cheaper, that would be awesome. Any suggestions are much appreciated![/quote]
The meter I have is actually made by Fluke. Those can get pricy. I actually bought mine used. The amp fuses were blown. I replaced them, and all is right with the world. You might check this one out.
http://www.jbtoolsales.com/amprobe-2727849-digital-multimeter/#oid=1002_1
thank you sir! Unfortunately I don’t think that’s what im looking for. I was using the Actron troubleshooter for a while, and it was working and then seemed to take a poop on me. When I worked for audi a few guys used the Texas Instruments meters and they seemed to work okay, but for draw we had a inductive clamp scope, so im still kind of unsure. What should i look for when shopping around for a meter that can do extended period of time amp flow? Most will just say 10 amps for 15 min. if it DOESN’T say that and say it says 10 amps fused only, am i safe to assume that the meter will be able to withstand low current for an extended period of time?
This 115 I found looks like it might do it, it says 20A 30 seconds momentarily and then 10A continuous , im Assuming i can see 10A or under for as long as i want and 20 for up to 30 seconds at a time? This might be perfect, let me know what you think thanks!
http://www.jbtoolsales.com/fluke-115-digital-multimeter-true-rms/
[quote=”ShopTech” post=99893]This 115 I found looks like it might do it, it says 20A 30 seconds momentarily and then 10A continuous , im Assuming i can see 10A or under for as long as i want and 20 for up to 30 seconds at a time? This might be perfect, let me know what you think thanks!
http://www.jbtoolsales.com/fluke-115-digital-multimeter-true-rms/%5B/quote%5D
That should work great. I’ve been using my Fluke for years with no issues. Other than the green print for the Ohm settings is hard to read. Trivial complaint really but it sucks to shoot video with.
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