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The title length is limited unfortunately. The real title is “How To Diagnose and Replace a Rear Caliper Using an Infrared Thermometer”. I know I’ve done rear caliper videos in the past but never used this method for diagnosis. As stated in the video, it can be used for more than just brakes. In fact, temperature diagnosis is widely used in industrial applications. What are your thoughts?
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Great video!! You must be pretty for north this time of year to be wearing a jacket 😆
I know this is model specific … I had this issue on some F150’s (2WD) with the right front brake smoking….
The flexible brake line, collapses on the inside and causes the brake fluid not return to the master cylinder, when the brake pedal is released…so when I checked the caliper piston for retraction and it wouldn’t move I condemned the caliper which turned out to be a brake line issue.
After that issue I always loosen the brake line fitting or bleeder screw, at the caliper I’m working on to see if the caliper piston retracts before condemning the caliper.
Hey Eric – I know you are a fan of Edd China too. I’ve seen him put “copper grease” on the back of disc pads when he does a brake job. (I think that’s the same as antisieze). What are your thoughts on this? He says it reduces braking noice, I think. Thx
[quote=”JTF” post=103224]Great video!! You must be pretty for north this time of year to be wearing a jacket 😆
I know this is model specific … I had this issue on some F150’s (2WD) with the right front brake smoking….
The flexible brake line, collapses on the inside and causes the brake fluid not return to the master cylinder, when the brake pedal is released…so when I checked the caliper piston for retraction and it wouldn’t move I condemned the caliper which turned out to be a brake line issue.
After that issue I always loosen the brake line fitting or bleeder screw, at the caliper I’m working on to see if the caliper piston retracts before condemning the caliper.[/quote]
You make a good point. I’ve actually covered that issue in other videos on caliper replacement but didn’t include it in this video. In my experience brake hose issues on Hondas are not common at all which is why I didn’t mention it.
Another way to check for a brake hose problem is to pump the pedal several times and then crack the bleeder loose. If the fluid comes out under pressure, it’s likely you have a brake hose problem and not a caliper problem. BTW you don’t have your foot on the brake pedal when you do this test. I actually cover this here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
Thanks for the suggestion.
[quote=”briangillen” post=103238]Hey Eric – I know you are a fan of Edd China too. I’ve seen him put “copper grease” on the back of disc pads when he does a brake job. (I think that’s the same as antisieze). What are your thoughts on this? He says it reduces braking noice, I think. Thx[/quote]
I’m a BIG fan of Edd China. Yes, I am aware of that practice but I don’t do it. I do on occasion put moly grease in between a shim and a brake pad, but not between the pad and the piston. My reasoning, because I haven’t really found it to be all that effective at doing anything but making a mess the next time I go to remove pads from the caliper. A good set of quality pads is all I feel is necessary to keep the brakes quiet. That and periodic service to make sure everything moves as it should helps as well.
EricTheCarGuy stated:
Another way to check for a brake hose problem is to pump the pedal several times and then crack the bleeder loose. If the fluid comes out under pressure, it’s likely you have a brake hose problem and not a caliper problem.
Yep, I remember that’s what Ford said to do first if the brake locked up and would not release.
EricTheCarGuy stated:
I’ve actually covered that issue in other videos on caliper replacement….
I need to set down and watch more of your videos. The ones I have viewed I find very informative!
You didnt include a link to a tool to crimp off brake lines :/ Can’t seem to find one.
Edit: Also, what would you recommend for steel braided brake lines? (In terms of avoided leaking out fluid while you change brakes)
[quote=”Method” post=103348]You didnt include a link to a tool to crimp off brake lines :/ Can’t seem to find one.
Edit: Also, what would you recommend for steel braided brake lines? (In terms of avoided leaking out fluid while you change brakes)[/quote]
There isn’t a link for that tool. It’s a pair of needle nose vice grips with pieces of fuel line placed on the jaws.
You cannot use this method on steel braided brake lines. You can either depress the brake pedal slightly to block off the master cylinder or your can cap off the brake line while you work.
Ah, I ask because you mentioned that there’s a tool specifically designed just like your needle nose vice grips. Oh well. (I don’t have any fuel line laying around or really anything else that would work.)
Eric, you may want to mention that using an impact tool to replace the banjo bolt to the caliper can cause the bolt to fail if you aren’t paying attention. I recently replaced calipers and used the new bolts that the manufacturer supplied, and torqued to spec. One side came out fine, but the bolt on the other side snapped. I realize you are an experienced technician, but you almost have to do banjo bolts by feel, if that makes sense.
BTW, I love your videos, and this is my first post to the forum!
[quote=”Method” post=103402]Ah, I ask because you mentioned that there’s a tool specifically designed just like your needle nose vice grips. Oh well. (I don’t have any fuel line laying around or really anything else that would work.)[/quote]
I found one and added it to the description. Thanks for the heads up.
[quote=”n.b.pace” post=103409]Eric, you may want to mention that using an impact tool to replace the banjo bolt to the caliper can cause the bolt to fail if you aren’t paying attention. I recently replaced calipers and used the new bolts that the manufacturer supplied, and torqued to spec. One side came out fine, but the bolt on the other side snapped. I realize you are an experienced technician, but you almost have to do banjo bolts by feel, if that makes sense.
BTW, I love your videos, and this is my first post to the forum![/quote]
Once the video is edited an uploaded there really is no going back. I think I have yet to make a ‘perfect’ video. Thanks for the suggestion.
I’ve done brake service maybe 6-7 times in my life so I’m certainly wouldn’t claim to have all the answers. However, just something I do — instead of putting those rotor screws back in, I simply spin on two lug nuts across from the caliper mounting point temporarily to hold the rotor in place. In this video, they would be at about the 2:00 and 6:00 position. It works perfectly well and avoids having to deal with the screws ever again. Yeah, it’s a LITTLE bit more work to install and remove them, but it’s a lot less work than dealing with those screws in the future. They’re really only there for the assembly line anyway.
Thanks again for another great video!
[quote=”miketheitguy” post=103634]I’ve done brake service maybe 6-7 times in my life so I’m certainly wouldn’t claim to have all the answers. However, just something I do — instead of putting those rotor screws back in, I simply spin on two lug nuts across from the caliper mounting point temporarily to hold the rotor in place. In this video, they would be at about the 2:00 and 6:00 position. It works perfectly well and avoids having to deal with the screws ever again. Yeah, it’s a LITTLE bit more work to install and remove them, but it’s a lot less work than dealing with those screws in the future. They’re really only there for the assembly line anyway.
Thanks again for another great video![/quote]
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve actually covered that technique in other videos and have used it myself. Works great and you’re right, you don’t need to reinstall the screws but I’ve just gotten in the habit of it to make installing the caliper and pads easier.
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