- This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 7 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
Nicely done Eric.I was impressed with the precision that you showed when the brake line lined right up under the wheel well.Always a pleasure watching you and learning from it.Thank you for the video.Take care man B)
Quick tip: Next time use something to hold the brake pedal down (and pull fuses or disconnect battery to prevent draining it due to brake lights staying on.) Other than the little squirt initially, that’ll seal off the master and hold all the upstream fluid in place.
[quote=”miketheitguy” post=97235]Quick tip: Next time use something to hold the brake pedal down (and pull fuses or disconnect battery to prevent draining it due to brake lights staying on.) Other than the little squirt initially, that’ll seal off the master and hold all the upstream fluid in place.[/quote]
Thanks for the suggestion. It’s been mentioned a couple of times. I’m glad you posted it here where it can do some good. I suppose there are lots of different ways to go about things.
Another way to do this repair might be to cut the line on either side of the compression fitting. Then you can pick up a pre-flared 12″ section from advance auto or wherever and two flare unions, and then attach it in. The only problem doing it that way would be that you basically have to lie on your back and use the hand-flare tool instead of your really awesome flare tool. That’s not better or worse (depends on circumstances really); it’s just another way of doing the repair. Replacing the entire line on a vehicle this old isn’t a bad thing, though, that’s for sure.
For anyone who has an ABS HCU module, just FYI — if you disconnect that thing or let any air in, you MUST get it bled with a dealer-level scan tool. There’s just no way to cycle it through and do it yourself. (There are some hacks to DIY for certain vehicles but they’re not always easy to find or carry out.) In my case, by using the pedal-hold-down method, I was able to replace the section via the crappy loaner tool and pre-flared repair 12″ section and flare union and not allow any air into the HCU.
One last note to anyone who may read this regarding Eric’s advice on using a flare wrench and not cross-threading the fittings: Heed those warnings DILIGENTLY. Having done both the first of the two times I did a brake line repair, I can tell you that rounding off and cross-threading one of those flare fittings while screwing it in to a component will ruin your weekend and your wallet. I was lucky that I was able to find a new HCU at the junkyard, but cross-threading that steel fitting into the aluminum HCU destroyed the ability to ever screw in another fitting again.
Thanks again for the videos, Eric.
[quote=”miketheitguy” post=97338]Another way to do this repair might be to cut the line on either side of the compression fitting. Then you can pick up a pre-flared 12″ section from advance auto or wherever and two flare unions, and then attach it in. The only problem doing it that way would be that you basically have to lie on your back and use the hand-flare tool instead of your really awesome flare tool. That’s not better or worse (depends on circumstances really); it’s just another way of doing the repair. Replacing the entire line on a vehicle this old isn’t a bad thing, though, that’s for sure.
For anyone who has an ABS HCU module, just FYI — if you disconnect that thing or let any air in, you MUST get it bled with a dealer-level scan tool. There’s just no way to cycle it through and do it yourself. (There are some hacks to DIY for certain vehicles but they’re not always easy to find or carry out.) In my case, by using the pedal-hold-down method, I was able to replace the section via the crappy loaner tool and pre-flared repair 12″ section and flare union and not allow any air into the HCU.
One last note to anyone who may read this regarding Eric’s advice on using a flare wrench and not cross-threading the fittings: Heed those warnings DILIGENTLY. Having done both the first of the two times I did a brake line repair, I can tell you that rounding off and cross-threading one of those flare fittings while screwing it in to a component will ruin your weekend and your wallet. I was lucky that I was able to find a new HCU at the junkyard, but cross-threading that steel fitting into the aluminum HCU destroyed the ability to ever screw in another fitting again.
Thanks again for the videos, Eric.[/quote]
The idea for me was to create one continuos line and eliminate any junctions. That’s the reason I replaced the line in the first place, because of the compression fitting. Given this cost me basically nothing but time, I’m happy with the repair and the result.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Just finished watching the video and have to say GOOD JOB! It took me a LONG time to figure out brake line bending, and you sure seemed to do it very well for your first go!
I would like to offer this suggestion to anyone who may be tackling this soon. When it comes to getting those sharp 90 degree turns or any close bend that you may end up kinking, this has helped me in the past:
As you start your bend, watch the deformation in the tubing, instead of leaving the tool in one place, keep on repositioning it along the bend to allow the tube to keep a much more open curve. If you tend to leave it at the same place right at the beginning, you will notice it will start to flatten out and kink. But if you reposition the tool slightly ahead of where you started, and adjust it slightly again and again, the bend will still be tight, but without the tubing collapse. I have a big stainless tubing bender from Home Depot that I use as I used to run stainless steel lines in restaurants for soda machines. It definitely helps to re-adjust every so often.
I hope that helps someone else in the future!
– Mike C.
Thanks for that suggestion. Bending steel tubing is definitely more of an art form than it would appear and practice and tips like that definitely help.
This job, while not overall terribly difficult, has it’s quirks. Working with that steel brake line tubing can be very unforgiving.
[quote=”OutofGas” post=97441]Just finished watching the video and have to say GOOD JOB! It took me a LONG time to figure out brake line bending, and you sure seemed to do it very well for your first go!
I would like to offer this suggestion to anyone who may be tackling this soon. When it comes to getting those sharp 90 degree turns or any close bend that you may end up kinking, this has helped me in the past:
As you start your bend, watch the deformation in the tubing, instead of leaving the tool in one place, keep on repositioning it along the bend to allow the tube to keep a much more open curve. If you tend to leave it at the same place right at the beginning, you will notice it will start to flatten out and kink. But if you reposition the tool slightly ahead of where you started, and adjust it slightly again and again, the bend will still be tight, but without the tubing collapse. I have a big stainless tubing bender from Home Depot that I use as I used to run stainless steel lines in restaurants for soda machines. It definitely helps to re-adjust every so often.
I hope that helps someone else in the future!
– Mike C.[/quote]
Great suggestion. One thing I found working with those pliers is that you don’t want to use them to make the bend. It seems much better to bend the line around the tool rather than using the tool to make the bend if you catch my meaning. I actually got much better toward the end of the job after learning that little tip. Also, consider using a socket or something as a form to bend around instead of using that tool. It works pretty good for the bend where I ran into some kinks.
Thanks again for your suggestions.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.