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.011-.015 is the spec for the exhaust and .007-.011 for the intake, this car has shims that you add or remove to get the correct valve spec.
Type in chiltons in the search bar to find the free chiltons site, that should help you out.
Good luck andkeep us posted.The fun part about that job is you have to take the measurements, remove the shims (compress the valve and use a magnet to get the shim out), do some math to figure out what size you need, and then go buy new shims that get the valve clearance in spec. Sometimes a few of the ones you remove from other valves are the right size that you need somewhere else, but you usually do end up having to get some new ones.
They make some tools that make the job easier – it’s a pliers type tool that hooks around the cam and pushes down on the corner of the valve shim bucket, you then insert a spacer tool on the opposite side leaving the shim free to be removed.
I’m sure you can find a way around using the tool, just be very careful and not damage the cam lobes.
Quoted From johnzcarz:
The fun part about that job is you have to take the measurements, remove the shims (compress the valve and use a magnet to get the shim out), do some math to figure out what size you need, and then go buy new shims that get the valve clearance in spec. Sometimes a few of the ones you remove from other valves are the right size that you need somewhere else, but you usually do end up having to get some new ones.
They make some tools that make the job easier – it’s a pliers type tool that hooks around the cam and pushes down on the corner of the valve shim bucket, you then insert a spacer tool on the opposite side leaving the shim free to be removed.
I’m sure you can find a way around using the tool, just be very careful and not damage the cam lobes.
+1, excellent post! and yes, it is a pain in the butt to do.
I am going to look for a video before I try it. The guy only has this car and the weekend off. So I don’t want to mess it up.
Thanks.Unless your valves are noisy it’s not something you need to do, in short if you don’t have to do it don’t bother as it is a real pain in the backside.
Thanks Eric. He got a leaking crank seal and no mechanic that he’s gone to want to fix just that. I asked him why the dude that did his timing belt didn’t replaced the seals? What an idiot? He’s poor but yet he doesn’t want to learn any thing. Lazy bum.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I personally don’t replace engine seals unless they’re leaking so don’t be too hard on him.
So replacing the seals on Hondas but on Toyotas don’t replace unless leaking?
Thanks.Don’t replace ANY seal on any engine unless it’s leaking or you’re doing a rebuild. I get this mainly from experience, too often I’ve seen new seals installed only to leak because of poor installation or cheep parts. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Don’t replace ANY seal on any engine unless it’s leaking or you’re doing a rebuild. I get this mainly from experience, too often I’ve seen new seals installed only to leak because of poor installation or cheep parts. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
This weekend, I am going to give it a closer look. Maybe it’s just the valve cover. He himself just think it’s the crank seal. If it comes to the crank seal then the timing belt needs to be replace as well. Could I just remove the cover to peak? Any tips?
Just to clarify. I got your Accord video on the timing belt change, you went through the process of the seal replacement, is that just for precaution or should I replace that too when I am in there? This is for my future reference.
Thanks.
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