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NO. your right. that tool will not straiten that type of condenser fin.
You could still call an hvac supply house and get a gallon of condenser
cleaner. with a pump sprayer. spray the condenser with the cleaner and
melt out all that dirt. do not get any on painted surfaces it will ruin it.
then with a garden hose wash the cleaner out of the condenser.
other wise you may need a new condenser.Quoted From sirwilliam:
Honda dealership mechanic just ensured me that the R12 system oil works find with PAG oil. My A/C system wasn’t flushed or cleaned before conversion to R134. The receiver dryer wasn’t replaced because the system wasn’t open for a long period of time not sure how long is a long time I want to guess 6 months?
Yes, PAG oil will work fine in an R 12 system which was flushed when converted to R 134a but if old R 12 mineral oil was not flushed out of the entire system the 2 different types of oil do not go together. Not good for system.
A/C fin comb http://www.amazon.com/Titan-TIT51500-Fin-Comb/dp/B005257Q96 you could probably find one that is cheaper.
How to use it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwzwboqN5CwQuoted From johnbkobb:
Yes, PAG oil will work fine in an R 12 system which was flushed when converted to R 134a but if old R 12 mineral oil was not flushed out of the entire system the 2 different types of oil do not go together. Not good for system.
A/C fin comb http://www.amazon.com/Titan-TIT51500-Fin-Comb/dp/B005257Q96 you could probably find one that is cheaper.
How to use it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwzwboqN5CwI have been following this post and wanted to ask a question, PAG oil will work in a system that has been converted from R12 to R134a if the system was properly flushed. But if the system was not properly flushed and there was still some mineral oil left behind in the system, would it not be best to use the Ester oil, that is compilable with both R12 and R134a????? I am just starting to learn about HVAC and was just wondering.
This is why I say AC work should be left to professionals as there is SOOO much that could come into play here. Not doubting your abilities but a situation like this is difficult to solve WITH the proper equipment and experience.
I don’t think your condenser fins are the problem, I’ve seen hundreds of them look just like what you have (thanks for the pic) and still cool fine.
I don’t recommend rebuilding the compressor as it could be that the main shaft is worn causing the leak which would mean if you just replaced the seals the leak would come back because you didn’t address the core problem that caused the seal to leak in the first place. If you replaced it with a reman compressor it’s likely it would come with oil already installed and you wouldn’t have to worry about how much to put in.
The symptoms you describe however sound like they could be an expansion valve issue OR the compressor itself, they wear out and can loose compression just like the engine can.
Quoted From djhughes:
I have been following this post and wanted to ask a question, PAG oil will work in a system that has been converted from R12 to R134a if the system was properly flushed. But if the system was not properly flushed and there was still some mineral oil left behind in the system, would it not be best to use the Ester oil, that is compilable with both R12 and R134a????? I am just starting to learn about HVAC and was just wondering.
Personally, I don’t believe that the oils that say they are compatible with other oils are. I’m not a professional mechanic. I only work on my own vehicles. If I was converting a system or replacing a compressor I would flush the system and use what ever oil came in the new compressor adding the same type and viscosity to fill the system after flushing everything that should be flushed and adding a new filter/drier. I wouldn’t put a used compressor in because after doing all the work required to do the fix properly it could all go to waste if that used compressor is no good. I would not want the system contaminated by a compressor that I do not know the history of. I believe in doing it right so it won’t have to be redone. In an A/C system there are too many ways to get acid in the system through various chemical interactions and I would rather avoid destroying the system by doing it right. Acid will eat the O rings and seals and the aluminum tubing. This is just my own opinion which may or may not be shared by others.
Locally, we have a salvage yard that sells used compressors with a 1 year warranty for about 1/4 the price of a new one. I don’t know if I’m just lucky to be close to this yard or not, but it’s worth looking into.
Very good… the A/C when it work it cools alright so I’m thinking the fins might not be the issue.
I will continue to monitor the leak and clean the compressor to track the location of the leakage.
Thanks everyone for your 2 cents.
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