How long M10 x 1.25 bolts accord captive rotor vid

[clearanceman]

I’m buying four M10 X 1.25 grade 8.8 bolts today since I need to do my 95 accord captive rotors. How long are the bolts in the video that Eric uses to beat the rotor off the bearing? Is 100mm ok?

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[clearanceman]

I guess I can get these tomorrow but I need to know if 100mm is an ok length. Thanks

[EricTheCarGuy]

That should be OK, perhaps a little long. The idea is not to have them too long or they may bend during the removal process. 100mm should be fine. Get at least 4 just in case.

[clearanceman]

I actually went today to get the bolts. Turns out they don’t have them. As long as I was ordering, I got the 90mm bolts, here Monday. Good thing the rotors aren’t too warped to drive or anything. I looked into 10.6 hardness but it goes from $9 something for four 8.8 to $24 something. I’ll stick with 8.8 hardness.

[EricTheCarGuy]

You don’t need to do anything with the rotors if you don’t have a brake pulsation BTW. In fact Honda recommends just a pad replacement when doing a brake job. Also there is a machine called an ‘on-the-car brake lathe’ that can be used to turn the rotors on the car saving a LOT of time and effort.

[clearanceman]

I do have brake pulsation and it’s been getting worse. Believe it or not, these rotors are almost certainly original. My dad bought this car new in 1994 had one set of pads put on it in the first 129,000 miles. He was going to trade it in so I bought it from him instead. I’ve put one set of pads since 129,000 and it has 223,000. I already bought the oem rotors off ebay for $120 total, I’m not having the existing ones turned, it just makes them warp faster and costs money that can go toward new rotors, I’ll just replace them.

[EricTheCarGuy]

It’s your car and I understand your position however machining the rotors on the car really is the best solution if there is enough metal there to work with because it eliminates any run out you might have in the hub assembly. I’ve machined many rotors this way with a great deal of success. BTW believe it or not rotor manufacturers including Honda say to machine the rotors before installing them on the car. This is not something I’ve done or intend to do, I’m just pointing this out. I think they do this to cover their butts in case there’s a pulsation after installation.

[clearanceman]

Thanks, I’ve just never had any luck having any rotors machined. Yeah it works for a few months, then they just warp again. If I get new decent rotors, they last for years.

BTW, you’re the man on getting that knuckle out. The first lower ball joint, I beat on the lower control arm where you are supposed to and nothing happened. I tried the wrench trick several times with zero result I tried the wrench trick with beating on the control arm. Ball joint didn’t move at all. I gave up and bought this: $4 for overnight shipping. To be continued.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH7O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[EricTheCarGuy]

Sometimes you need a bigger hammer. I haven’t had one not come loose yet, I’ve beat the heck out of some of them but in truth I really enjoy that part of the job. How many jobs can you get where beating the crap out of inanimate objects is part of the job?

[Author]

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