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How do I remove stuck Exhaust Manifold bolts?

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here How do I remove stuck Exhaust Manifold bolts?

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  • #665464
    Joseph CJoseph C
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      #665465
      Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
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        Good work, and I hope that third bolt doesn’t put up too much of a fight.

        #665496
        Joseph CJoseph C
        Participant

          [quote=”MDK22″ post=138120]I am just going to chime in here because it seems like you are digging yourself a bigger and bigger hole atm. Get some acetone aka gf nail polish remover (make sure it says acetone and u can also normally buy acetone from a place like home depot often in the paint isle) and some atf fluid mix them together and use that for your penetrating oil. They will separate so always mix before using. Be careful as this will eat paint and use brakleen to get it off any plastics. It is an extremely corrosive combination but, it works on straight metal.

          Then wait 1-2 minutes and tighten the bolt. This will cause a sudden increase in pressure and force the home made penetrating oil in further. Then heat the bolt we are talking 5 mins with that propane torch of straight heat on the bolt. Tap it with a hammer. Do not kill it just tap it. Let it cool then try to remove it. Doing that should compress the rust and acetone in it enough to fracture the rust and penetrate most if not all of the threads.

          Some options you have because the head is messed up:

          Impact if you have one even if manual.
          Flank drive aka 6s type socket/wrench that grabs the flats and not the points
          Beat a slightly smaller 12 pt socket on it. Craftsman are good for this. Use it to take it off.
          Use vise grips.
          Turbo aka fluted, spiral, socket and if impact style beat on if not push on ratchet or socket and use box end to try and remove.
          Cut the head off with a hack saw and use a file to taper the top so it looks like a bolt. clean up the threads with a tap and install a steel locking nut or nut and lock washer. Do not use nylock as there is a possibility of it melting.

          Just my 2 cents. Btw, next time penetrating oil drive the car. More penetrating oil drive the car. More penetrating oil and drive the car. Then try this. Also invest in a good penetrating oil I suggest silikroil its safer then that home made concoction and won’t eat plastic and isn’t horrible to paint.[/quote]

          I did read this (the day after you posted it) and I did much of what was said.. I videodocumented and it worked GREAT! 😀 Thank you!

          Now for those two lower ones…

          #665497
          Joseph CJoseph C
          Participant

            [quote=”cap269″ post=138254]Good work, and I hope that third bolt doesn’t put up too much of a fight.[/quote]

            Thanks! 🙂

            And I actually think that with my Vise-Grips (I have to buy, since head of bolts may prove issue) but the HEAT and ATF/ACETONE MIX (as you saw in 15-minute first video.. took me a couple of hours or so) and the second video (literally took me like 10 minutes.)

            Then I can continue with my project! http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/4-General-Automotive-Discussion/58181-1995-honda-civic-head-gasket-d15z1-in-an-ex

            #666115
            Joseph CJoseph C
            Participant
              #666116
              Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
              Participant

                Nice!

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