Honda Wheel Alignments

[Robert Carroll]

Sorry if this has been asked and answered but here goes ….

?? What can be done to get Honda Rear Wheels into Alignment specs ??

I have two vehicles with the following specs:

2004 Pilot

Rear Right, Camber, at -1.28 degree, spec is -1.25 to 0.25 degrees

1998 CRV

Rear Right, Toe, at -0.44 degree, spec is 0.04 to 0.16 degrees
Front Right, camber, at -1.06 degree, spec is -1.00 to 1.00 degrees

Are there aftermarket kits that can adjust? Any tricks? Or is this just the way it is?

Thank you

Topic

[dan]

camber is typically ajusted with a micpherson strut design with the bolts that bolt the strut too the steering knuckle, sometimes these are called camber bolts, negative camber is when the top of the tire is pointed more towards the inside of the vehicle, having negative camber helps a car too corner more confidently but at the same time too much negative camber can cause excessive inside tire wear.

too adjust camber typically you loosen the bolts just enough too where you can wiggle the steering knuckle on the strut, this adjusts the camber, typically you hold or push the tire too the position where the camber is at the desired angle and then someone tightens the bolts, this can be picky, sometimes people will take a dremel and round out the bolt holes in the strut mounts a bit some are relatively adjustable as they are

ill see if i can find a video explaning camber and how too adjust it on most McPherson strut designs.

[dan]

ooh and toe is adjusted on the tie rods on the front, you will see what typically looks like a long nut on a tie rod end on each end are two regular sized nuts (jam nuts) of relatively the same size if not the same size that tighten agents it and prevent rotation under vibration. you will have too loosen both bolts that sit beside the big one and rotate the big bolt too adjust toe… pay attention too the threads and observe and see what direction you have too turn the long nut (not sure what it is called.) too bring the toe out or in, one you have the adjustment you want tighten the two jam nuts on each end agents the big nut.

adjusting toe
[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjZUu_d08t8[/video]

adjusting camber

now i would like too state here, that there are many methods for adjusting camber, there are kits you can get as well as other things but typically camber on mcpherson strut designs examples

[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VFlqPE1gBw[/video]

[video]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Sr6rc3RH6Q[/video]

[college man]

see if this helps.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/89001/alignment__suspension_specs_20032008_honda_pilot.aspx

http://www.mdxers.org/forums/73-2001-2006-acura-mdx/40926-rear-upper-control-arms-suspension-alignment.html

[Robert Carroll]

Many thanks for taking the time to help. I do appreciate.

I think in putting in the front wheel information I may have misled a bit. If you have any information on the rear wheels that would be perfect.

I did have issues with the front wheels on my Pilot and NTB recommended a camber kit which worked just fine. The CRV does not have McPherson Struts. I have four kids 3 of which are driving. I have purchased 3 of the generation 1 CRVs for them. I have a 1998, 1999, and a 2000 model. So, I figure once I understand what to do for one of them … well you get the picture.

My curiosity is the rear wheels. I am just at a loss as what to do for the rear if it even matters.

Again, thanks for the assistance.

[Tom]

In my experience, if the toe is set properly, having the camber off by a fraction of a degree isn’t going to cause any significant wear, or ill handling. If you start getting up near 2 degrees of camber instead of the 1 degree you are supposed to have, then it might become a problem, but I wouldn’t bother with trying to correct .09 degrees of camber.

The toe, I can’t see any reason for that to be wrong if the vehicle has been aligned, they should have set that properly. Usually, there is plenty of adjust ability in the tie rod ends, unless something is bent pretty badly, it shouldn’t be difficult to get it in range.

[EricTheCarGuy]

I believe on those vehicles there is a cam bolt on the lower control arms used to correct those angles. It often gets rusted into place. Hopefully that’s not the case.

If you don’t have cam bolts there then perhaps there are bent components somewhere.

Keep us posted.

[Robert Carroll]

Cam Bolts, thanks, I’ll ask the shop or search the internet but either way I now I have some thing to go on.

Appreciated.

rgc

[Bill]

I agree with Tomh. The toe adjustment is most important in your situation.

[Ingvar]

Actually, camber has tremendous influence on steering ability and tire wear.
Just before I go off track – Cr-V does have McPherson struts and on all 4 corners. As I had one and I had all 4 replaced. Personally. Including springs.
On non camber bolt struts (why, oh why??) like my Camry, camber is reset with camber kit, which is a camshaft bolt with clever designed washer with tab. Can be used for positive or negative camber adjustment, based on which direction the tab is pointing.
This write up on the subject:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1590221
helped me a lot, when I was installing them on my Camry front end.
Rear end didn’t need them as I bought KYB struts that had flanges built in, securing proper camber in place.

[zero]

On both vehicles the rear camber is pretty close to spec. In my opinion the cost associated with installing whatever parts may be necessary will not outweigh any increase in tire life. And they’d have to be installed with yet another alignment.

A bit off topic but what was the cargo state of both vehicles when they were either aligned or checked. Random stuff in the back CAN give bad readings. We’re told to remove things that probably aren’t in there everyday. Like that actually happens.

The toe on the CRV is out quit a bit and would seem to indicate that soemthing is bent or broken. Or just plain old not done right.

[Tom]

I’ve run close to -2.5 degrees camber, with no ill handling, and it would corner like a nascar, but tire wear definitely became a problem, leading to camber corrections. At -2.5 degrees, I was basically one degree more negative than spec. For the past 3 years, I’ve run at about -1.6 which is about .2 degrees more negative than spec, and have no noticeable issues with tire wear.

The toe will make a huge difference in handling, AND will cause premature tire wear. Make certain that the toe issue is addressed.

[Author]

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