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Honda Prelude Distributor not working, found the problem, but not the solution!

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here Honda Prelude Distributor not working, found the problem, but not the solution!

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #887636
    ChanceChance
    Participant

      So I just purchased a 1993 Honda Prelude Si, 2.3L DOHC, 149,000 miles, for $700, got it home, got a battery, new gas, and…no fire. Checked the normal stuff, the fuel pump is working, gas is going to the injectors, etc. Went to spark. Well, sometimes there’s spark to the plugs, most times there’s not. So I thought I may need a new distributor. No. This thing has to be nearly new, buuuut, there is nothing holding the rotor or plastic cover on, except the outside body. I believe that the rotor is slipping back and forth when it turns and that is the reason for the occasional spark, but no start. But there is no screw hole in the rotor to have it attach to the shaft. So, anyone know about this?

    Viewing 6 replies - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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      Replies
    • #887670
      Todd SmithTodd Smith
      Participant

        If you’re hot on all three wires, it sounds like your ignition control module has a short in it. Try the same test, but this time with the distributor unplugged.

        #887672
        Kevin CriswellKevin Criswell
        Participant

          Okay if you are test lighting the wires with the ignition on and the connector connected to the distributor those wires will be hot as the coil does not dump voltage when doing no work.

          Unplug the distributor, the black wire with a yellow stripe should be hot as this supplies the coil with 12 volts. The blue wire is what the ignition control module grounds to fire the coil, this wire should show a ground condition in varying pulses (when cranking) , the blue wire is just a signal wire to tell the ignition control module that the coil has cycled, this allows for a tach signal return.

          On honda distributors always check the plastic internal housings well as the tend to crack allowing for internal misfires.

          #887675
          Todd SmithTodd Smith
          Participant

            To add to raistian’s point, are you testing the coil’s connector plugged in or unplugged when you get the lights?

            #887679
            Kevin CriswellKevin Criswell
            Participant

              Sorry have to make a correction

              The blue wire is the tach signal to the ignition control module, the yellow wire is a hot feed to the ignition control module coming from the coil and the black with yellow is the battery feed to the coil (and also to the ignition control module through the solid yellow wire).honda distributor

              .

              #887742
              ChanceChance
              Participant

                Hey guys, sorry for the late reply, been out the last few days. Anyway, I was doing the test with the coil disconnected from the distributor. If I am speaking correctly, I disconnect the cable that looks like a spark plug wire, that runs between the coil pack and the bottom of the distributor. When I disconnected it, I wanted to see if I was getting any spark from the coil itself, and so put my test light near the end of the ”looks like spark plug wire” that runs to the the distributor. That’s when I also got one single spark when trying to crank the engine. I left that cable disconnected when I did my test of the wires running to the coil, but this time I will unplug the distributor completely from any power.

                #887743
                ChanceChance
                Participant

                  Ok, so I did the light test with the distributor completely disconnected. Same results. So I tested the plug connecting to the coil itself. 1 hot, 2 nothing. Look right to anyone else? I’m thinking it’s a bad coil.

                Viewing 6 replies - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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