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great video – sadly, that’s a repair I have had to do on our Odyssey (an 05) already! I had the same experience in terms of there being sufficient slack to remove the roller assembly. One thing that also helps free stuff up is to clean the center track (particularly the curved part going into the van) and lubricate it, as well as the lower track.
The tail lights can be a pain – you are actually pulling out and a little bit away – i have found that using a plastic trim tool to help persuade the light out (pushing outward at the leading edge of the light) helps get the assembly off, too.
For the door, the easiest way to control how far it moves is to turn off the automatic part (on the switch for the two doors on the dash, there is a sliding switch – just slide it to off, and then you can open the door as much or as little as you need) rather than opening the window
The thing about lubricating the track is that it will harbor dirt. Over time it can actually wear the rollers faster because it works like sand paper.
Thanks for the recommendations on disabling the doors.
Probably true! Honda only calls for it on the plate that the lower roller rides on, then part of the track the lower roller assembly rides on, then just the inside of the corner of the track for the middle roller
Thanks for this very useful video. My son’s 2004 Odyssey with 216,000 well-worn miles had the door jamb shut completely and broke the cable for the same reason you suggested that doors could stick when the rollers went bad. In fact, his rollers had completely disintegrated. I was pressed for time, so I replaced the rollers, but did not bother with fixing the broken cable, but left the door as manually operating. It works great for now. When the weather warms up again, I’ll look into getting the cable repaired.
Thanks again for showing all your great tips.
Dave R. Beavercreek, OH
Great video! I have a 2010 EX-L with RES (no NAV). I attempted yesterday, seemed to get everything done and the door would close but not “suck in” or “seal” at the very end. It was “so close”. I had to manually “hip check” it in for the last 1/4 inch. I spent the next 2 hours trying to adjust the bracket that attaches to the door with the two 12mm screws and it only got worse (I did mark it with a marker but I still seem to be off). Now, it gets to about 6 inches from closing and just pops back open. I am going to try to adjust the bracket/two 12mm and try to get it at least to my “him check” option. Then, I have more questions. Is the “hip check” necessity due to my poor placement of the bracket or is it possible that something else is wrong and I will need to do an additional fix? And on to my additional issue(s), I have noticed that if I try to manually push in the “door ajar” switch, my dash still shows the red light that the door is open. This light stays on even when the door is closed (thus all of my troubleshooting). I have to disconnect the battery when the van is parked otherwise the battery is draining. I think I have a lot of troubleshooting ahead of me, just trying to figure out how much you can help (or if I need to pay you to help me troubleshoot). Thank you in advance.
UPDATE: I got back to the van today and it seems that somehow (disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, letting it sit, etc.) has “righted” the door/alignment and it opens and closes NO PROBLEM with the automatic button! But, I continue to have the issue of the door ajar light, etc. I noticed that if I have the car running and all doors closed, the passenger sliding door indicator light is on. If I push the button to OPEN the passenger sliding door, then the pass. sliding door light stays on but the FRONT PASSENGER DOOR light comes on as well! If I then close the pass. sliding door, the FRONT PASSENGER DOOR light goes OFF, but the pass. sliding door light stays on?
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