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I really like these videos as it really goes back to the ‘roots’ of what I started out doing with this channel. I think it’s even better considering when you go back and look at the old videos like this where the lighting (and me) weren’t as good. I look forward to your comments on these. I’ll post the second video to this same thread on Friday since they’re all the same video.
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[quote=”astrudwick75″ post=35954]I have a 1999 Acura CL 3.0 that has the J30A1 engine in it. The car has 149,00 miles on it and is misfiring. The codes I am getting indicate a random misfire on all 6 cylinders. Things I have tried: change plugs, wires, and ignition control module. Gaps are correct and the distributor has a tiny bit of oil leakage but nothing major. I have been to 3 different places to have the car looked at. The first place (a Honda dealer) told me my #4 injector was clogged and needed to be replaced after looking at the car for 5 minutes (didn’t believe that), the second place told me that the distributor leak had fouled the ignition control module (why i replaced it with a junk yard one which did no good, neither my original nor the new one had any oil on them and no signs of corrosion), and lastly at another Honda dealer I was told that the car needed to have the valves adjusted because there was too much air as indicated by my MAP sensor. My question is, can Valves out of adjustment cause a misfire or is it something else. Valves aren’t clicking but I do not believe they have ever been adjusted. Another thing is that this problem started about a month ago and then went away for about 3 weeks and started up again over the weekend. Also the car runs smooth sometimes when I first start it up in the morning but once it gets warm it starts misfiring again.[/quote]
Hello,
Yes valves can cause misfires! I had the same problem with my Accord J30A1 engine and the valve adjustment solved my random misfire problem. I also had a rough idle. See my post #35261 on page 3 of this topic.That’s actually a question that would be better for the service and repair section. It’s not often a valve adjustment will cause a misfire unless they were misadjusted, they don’t normally wear to that point. The most common cause of a misfire on the J series is actually clogged EGR passages. Also make sure you use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs.
Oh! Forgot to mention that my intermittent misfire codes went away after the valve adjustment (long after the plugs had been replaced twice … aftermarket by me the first time, and OEM at the dealer the second time).
If my J Series engine is running fine, is there any downside to not adjusting the valves? In other words, can I ruin my engine by not doing a valve adjustment…..can the valves become tight enough on there own to burn them and cause engine failure?
By the way, I purchased your J Series timing belt video and was able to change the timing belt and water pump on my 2009 TL….well worth the money since it saved me a lot more, and had the satisfaction of doing it myself for the first time.
[quote=”aaronac8″ post=62383]If my J Series engine is running fine, is there any downside to not adjusting the valves? In other words, can I ruin my engine by not doing a valve adjustment…..can the valves become tight enough on there own to burn them and cause engine failure?
By the way, I purchased your J Series timing belt video and was able to change the timing belt and water pump on my 2009 TL….well worth the money since it saved me a lot more, and had the satisfaction of doing it myself for the first time.[/quote]
If the valves aren’t noisy I’d recommend leaving them alone. You’re actually worse off if you try and adjust them if they’re not noisy. No harm will come to the engine if you don’t adjust the valves.
Thanks for the comments on the timing belt video. Feel free to leave that comment in the comment section at the bottom of the page where you purchased it.
When you say the “valves are noisy” does that mean that you can hear the valves from inside the car or only in the engine bay? Do you have an example of what an engine with noisy valves would sound like?
Great video ETCG! Thanks so much. I’m trying to remove the valve covers on my 1999 TL and they seem to be pretty stuck. The front one came off with much difficulty and the rear one seems to be even worse. I’ve gotten all 5 bolts out but the thing barely moves. I’m afraid of damaging the head so don’t want to pry too hard. Any suggestions?
-Sohail The Stuck Valve Cover Guy
[quote=”sysuleman” post=108485]Great video ETCG! Thanks so much. I’m trying to remove the valve covers on my 1999 TL and they seem to be pretty stuck. The front one came off with much difficulty and the rear one seems to be even worse. I’ve gotten all 5 bolts out but the thing barely moves. I’m afraid of damaging the head so don’t want to pry too hard. Any suggestions?
-Sohail The Stuck Valve Cover Guy[/quote]
You might try hitting it with a plastic hammer. Sometimes the gasket sticks and it can be a pain to break loose.
Hi Eric,
3 months ago I bought a 2003 TL with 170k miles and was about to change the oil using synthetic, after reading your comments about potentially causing leaks I’m having second thoughts as to wether I should or not. Is there a way you can tell if the car has had synthetic oil regularly in the past? If not I think I should assume it didn’t and just use standard oil, your thoughts?[quote=”jmlarios13″ post=162310]Hi Eric,
3 months ago I bought a 2003 TL with 170k miles and was about to change the oil using synthetic, after reading your comments about potentially causing leaks I’m having second thoughts as to wether I should or not. Is there a way you can tell if the car has had synthetic oil regularly in the past? If not I think I should assume it didn’t and just use standard oil, your thoughts?[/quote]No way to tell without sending a sample in for analysis that I know of. If it’s not leaking, you might consider high mileage oil.
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