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I really like these videos as it really goes back to the ‘roots’ of what I started out doing with this channel. I think it’s even better considering when you go back and look at the old videos like this where the lighting (and me) weren’t as good. I look forward to your comments on these. I’ll post the second video to this same thread on Friday since they’re all the same video.
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Yes he runs Mobile1 however it’s not required to get an engine to look this good. From what I’ve seen as long as you change your oil (it can be regular oil) on a regular basis say every 3-5K that your engine will look like this in 100K. Something to avoid however is switching to synthetic in a high milage engine that hasn’t used synthetic. If you do this it’s possible that the engine will begin to consume oil as well as leak from just about every external seal. The reason for this I imagine is that synthetic has different flow characteristics than regular oil of the same viscosity and therefore it does not act the same inside the engine.
I just got done reading your reply about the oil in the engine (cleanest 100k+ engine I have ever seen and well I am looking to buy a Geo Prizm GSi (Toyota Corolla GT-S AE92) and the famous 4AG-E engine has just over 100k on it. If I switch it to mobile one full synthetic at its next oil change, it may start to leak??
P.S. Love your video’s and a life time subscriber to you.
On a high milage engine it is possible that you’ll start having oil leaks if you run synthetic now. To be honest the only real benefit from running synthetic oil in my opinion is that you can extend your oil changes, I don’t believe you’ll notice any appreciable difference in performance by running synthetic.
So basically stick to what ever is in it now. I think I will look up what the engine is supposed to run with and go with that one. I also have to look up what type of gear box fluid it uses. Plan to keep this car (if I buy it) in the up most shape as much as possible. I also plan to learn cars through it mainly ECU stuff, then tweaking the engine, transmission, and suspension while working on my ASE certifications.
But thanks to your video’s it has severely boosted my knowledge on cars and how they operate. Cant wait to start diving in to this world.
That sounds like a plan. Keep us posted on your progress. We like pictures and video even better especially since we can post them right in the forum now.
maybe you or someone on here can answer this question; Why do these newer cars have these plastic covers? It just makes for added weight…
I have an Acura 2009 TL and my valve cover has a “hump” for the camshafts. I read that I need to use hondabond at the 2 corners where the valve cover meets the rocker shaft holder on the front of the engine; in your video the valve covers have no humps and you did not use hondabond.
Is hondabond necessary when replacing the valve covers in my car?
Hy Eric,
Is there a good reason why Honda is using old school valve tip clearance adjustment instead of using self adjusting hydraulic lifters?
I was pretty shocked when I saw the adjusting screws on the rockers.
In my mind I was committed to that hydraulic lifters were out of engine design since the late 70’s and self adjusting lifters are at least the last 15 years state of the art???The last time I saw this technology was on a BMW 320i E30 which was built in 1984 which had a M20 engine… but with the next generation of engines (M50) this all was changed to self adjusting hydraulic valve lifters.
Best regards
TomIn Part 1 you said to not move the butterfly valve on the drive-by-wire throttle body. I am curious as to why? (I do not know much about drive-by-wire systems and I would like to be educated on the subject before ever working with the system.)
Also, I also wonder why they put all those covers on the engine. Is there a purpose?
[quote=”LanEvoX” post=34575]maybe you or someone on here can answer this question; Why do these newer cars have these plastic covers? It just makes for added weight…[/quote]
I believe it’s an aesthetic choice. I don’t believe there’s any real practical reason outside of that. It doesn’t really add that much weight, a few ounces at best.
[quote=”aaronac8″ post=34624]I have an Acura 2009 TL and my valve cover has a “hump” for the camshafts. I read that I need to use hondabond at the 2 corners where the valve cover meets the rocker shaft holder on the front of the engine; in your video the valve covers have no humps and you did not use hondabond.
Is hondabond necessary when replacing the valve covers in my car?[/quote]
In short it’s just a bit of added insurance. With the covers on the engine in the video there are no sharp corners so it’s not an issue but with the ‘hump’ style like yours it’s good to have a little extra insurance.
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