- This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 4 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Ok so here goes I have a 1991 Honda Crx Hf with a pretty high cold/warm 1250rpm idle. I’ve done all the basic things that are mentioned to check for. The car has all new gaskets torqued right, no rpm change when carb/starter fluid is sprayed anywhere. The HF intake does not have a FITV, I’ve cleaned the IACV and tested it to make sure it opens, bled the coolant, replaced all the vacuum lines. I do have a check engine light (code 3 for map sensor) but my map sensor is good (checked it on another Honda). I’m getting 5v to the power wire, ground is 12v, and signal wire is 5v but does not vary when vacuum is applied like it’s supposed to. I have continuity between all three wires from connector to connector so I don’t have a short. I’m waiting on a new distributor because I believe it was miss firing and now it will start but won’t stay running but for a few seconds. What have I missed? Any help is appreciated.
-
Replies
-
Try removing the air ducting. put your finger over the upper
hole on the TB. see if the idle comes down. If it does your
IAC is passing to much air. also check that your cable is
not to tight.It did lower it a bit when I covered the IAC passage but only to 1k. My Idle cable is set at the distance the Haynes manual says.
Also the car is running pretty rich, you can smell gas pretty bad when it’s idling. I don’t have any other codes besides the Map sensor code 3/5 which that problem is addressed in another forum/ no answers on here so I decided it was better to keep it simple, but could that be causing it to idle high too? I know the ECT has something to do with running rich but no codes for that (bad sensor can make the car dump more fuel because it thinks it’s cold.) I don’t have radiator fans while it’s running but they do work and I’ve eliminated everything I can think of except the relay, I’ll be testing that tomorrow. Also no cat, sorry guys it was beat it out or spend money to get a new one quicker that I want to.
I do not recommend replacing the distributor. You likely have an issue that’s causing the high idle it running rich, and the misfire. In fact, that’s probably why you have a code for the MAP. A MAP sensor code is often set when there is a mechanical problem or you have a misfire. You might start by checking the mechanical condition of the engine. I’ve written extensively about solving Honda idle problems here. I recommend you read through it for other suggestions.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.