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Good video. I replaced the front LCA bushings on my Jeep Liberty earlier this year, but I only attempted it because I was able to pick up the special factory drivers/receivers/forcing screw tool set on eBay at a bargain price, I think about $60 (ex-dealership tools). Because the drivers and receivers were designed specifically for those arms and bushings, it was a piece of cake, with no power tools required.
A tip I picked up on the Jeep forum was to put the bushings in the freezer the night before, and only take them out when you’re ready to install them. They shrink just enough that you can press them in with noticeably less effort. The same trick works with bearings and ball joints.
Ah, good old compliance bushings. I noticed the revised part number when I did mine. A lot more meat on the newer ones, so hopefully they last a little longer. The previous owner of my E also had them replaced so I’m on set #3 @ 155k mi.
I did LCA bushings on an 05 Accord. It’s similar but has 3 bushings.
For the big compliance bushing, I pressed the center of the bushing out. Then, I used a disc from a wheel bearing remover kit to remove the bushing. Then, I used a pipe cap to install the new one.
The secret of getting the lipped bushing out is to be lazy. Basically, I ignored the lip and put a socket under the lipped side and pressed the bushing into the socket. It takes a lot of force initially but the lip will bend and allow itself to slide right down into the socket, with no harm to the socket.
I’m surprised you didn’t have issues with the bolt seizing to the inside of any bushings. It’s a nightmare when that happens.
[quote=”c918″ post=151419]I’m surprised you didn’t have issues with the bolt seizing to the inside of any bushings. It’s a nightmare when that happens.[/quote]
Fortunately I’ve never encountered that. What’s the option when you do? Try and cut a circle in the rubber around the bolt so that you can turn it and the seized part of the bushing out together? Sawzall the bolt and then use an easy-out or similar to remove the section of the bolt that’s still threaded into the frame?
I guess it all changes on a case-by-case basis depending on bushing accessibility etc.
[quote=”Dunebasher” post=151423][quote=”c918″ post=151419]I’m surprised you didn’t have issues with the bolt seizing to the inside of any bushings. It’s a nightmare when that happens.[/quote]
Fortunately I’ve never encountered that. What’s the option when you do? Try and cut a circle in the rubber around the bolt so that you can turn it and the seized part of the bushing out together? Sawzall the bolt and then use an easy-out or similar to remove the section of the bolt that’s still threaded into the frame?
I guess it all changes on a case-by-case basis depending on bushing accessibility etc.[/quote]
The bolt unthreads from the frame, but the bushing is seized to the bolt. So, the bushing breaks and twists with the bolt. Only thing I can think of is use a torch and an impact to break it loose. But that could get smoky.
A few notes from my replacement of the compliance bushings:
1) The kit that Eric got from Honda is more expensive than ordering just the 2 compliance bushings from Honda (or most parts stores carry the bushing now). Although the kit does include instructions, like how to align the bushing and they mark the bushing with yellow paint, I don’t think you need that.
2) I removed the control arms and took them to a machine shop, and I feel that’s the best option for a DIYer. Without a press, it’s very hard to get the new bushing started on straight. My machinist marked the control arm with a punch to the “triangle” on the old bushing to know how to orient the new one. He only charged me like $15 to do both bushings.
3) I would not recommend replacing the rear bushing. As you saw, it can be quite a fight, and I’ve never seen one go bad. By that time, as Eric mentioned, you might as well just replace the entire control arm.
If you just buy the two compliance bushings (and stabilizer links) and have a machine shop press them, this is only like a 2 hour job for under $100.
I’ve never heard the expression “compliance bushing” before. Is that just Honda-speak for what’s simply called a control arm bushing elsewhere?
[quote=”Dunebasher” post=151441]I’ve never heard the expression “compliance bushing” before. Is that just Honda-speak for what’s simply called a control arm bushing elsewhere?[/quote]
Probably. Though I’ve never personally seen that kind of bushing used on another make.
[quote=”stiv625″ post=151436]A few notes from my replacement of the compliance bushings:
2) I removed the control arms and took them to a machine shop, and I feel that’s the best option for a DIYer. Without a press, it’s very hard to get the new bushing started on straight. My machinist marked the control arm with a punch to the “triangle” on the old bushing to know how to orient the new one. He only charged me like $15 to do both bushings.
3) I would not recommend replacing the rear bushing. As you saw, it can be quite a fight, and I’ve never seen one go bad. By that time, as Eric mentioned, you might as well just replace the entire control arm.
If you just buy the two compliance bushings (and stabilizer links) and have a machine shop press them, this is only like a 2 hour job for under $100.[/quote]
I agree that the kit isn’t necessary. IDK about your location, but the shop closest to me wanted $25 to press EACH bushing (6 total for me). So that $200 harbor freight press nearly paid for itself in the first use.
But then again, I’ve always wanted a press so now I have it for other things I used to have to do with a hammer or not at all.
The rear bushing is a why not kind of thing, especially since how rusty the steel looked. For the extra time it took, it removes all doubt and gives that fuzzy feeling. Basically a new control arm after all the bushings are replaced.
[quote=”Dunebasher” post=151441]I’ve never heard the expression “compliance bushing” before. Is that just Honda-speak for what’s simply called a control arm bushing elsewhere?[/quote]
Yes it is Honda-speak.
Here are the part numbers. As you can see the “service kit” with instructions and markings on the bushings is a few dollars more than the bushings alone.
[quote=”c918″ post=151443]
I agree that the kit isn’t necessary. IDK about your location, but the shop closest to me wanted $25 to press EACH bushing (6 total for me). So that $200 harbor freight press nearly paid for itself in the first use.But then again, I’ve always wanted a press so now I have it for other things I used to have to do with a hammer or not at all.
The rear bushing is a why not kind of thing, especially since how rusty the steel looked. For the extra time it took, it removes all doubt and gives that fuzzy feeling. Basically a new control arm after all the bushings are replaced.[/quote]
That’s insane money. I don’t blame you in that case then. My machinist was happy to make $15 in 5 minutes. I’ve tried to do other similar bushings with a ball joint tool like Eric was using and although they came right out, I couldn’t get them started straight back in.
[quote=”Dunebasher” post=151411]Good video. I replaced the front LCA bushings on my Jeep Liberty earlier this year, but I only attempted it because I was able to pick up the special factory drivers/receivers/forcing screw tool set on eBay at a bargain price, I think about $60 (ex-dealership tools). Because the drivers and receivers were designed specifically for those arms and bushings, it was a piece of cake, with no power tools required.
A tip I picked up on the Jeep forum was to put the bushings in the freezer the night before, and only take them out when you’re ready to install them. They shrink just enough that you can press them in with noticeably less effort. The same trick works with bearings and ball joints.[/quote]
Honestly, as you saw in the video, getting them out is much harder than getting them in. That said, cooling the bushings before installation is helpful.
Thanks for your input.
[quote=”c918″ post=151419]I did LCA bushings on an 05 Accord. It’s similar but has 3 bushings.
For the big compliance bushing, I pressed the center of the bushing out. Then, I used a disc from a wheel bearing remover kit to remove the bushing. Then, I used a pipe cap to install the new one.
The secret of getting the lipped bushing out is to be lazy. Basically, I ignored the lip and put a socket under the lipped side and pressed the bushing into the socket. It takes a lot of force initially but the lip will bend and allow itself to slide right down into the socket, with no harm to the socket.
I’m surprised you didn’t have issues with the bolt seizing to the inside of any bushings. It’s a nightmare when that happens.[/quote]
I actually did have that issue on the left inner bushing and it was a PITA to get out.
[quote=”stiv625″ post=151436]A few notes from my replacement of the compliance bushings:
1) The kit that Eric got from Honda is more expensive than ordering just the 2 compliance bushings from Honda (or most parts stores carry the bushing now). Although the kit does include instructions, like how to align the bushing and they mark the bushing with yellow paint, I don’t think you need that.
2) I removed the control arms and took them to a machine shop, and I feel that’s the best option for a DIYer. Without a press, it’s very hard to get the new bushing started on straight. My machinist marked the control arm with a punch to the “triangle” on the old bushing to know how to orient the new one. He only charged me like $15 to do both bushings.
3) I would not recommend replacing the rear bushing. As you saw, it can be quite a fight, and I’ve never seen one go bad. By that time, as Eric mentioned, you might as well just replace the entire control arm.
If you just buy the two compliance bushings (and stabilizer links) and have a machine shop press them, this is only like a 2 hour job for under $100.[/quote]
I agree about not replacing the rear bushing. I don’t think it’s always necessary. But in my business, you don’t want to put up with comments like, (whiny voice) “Eric, how come you didn’t replace the other bushing?” Therefore I replaced them both in the video.
Thanks for your input.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=151463]
I agree about not replacing the rear bushing. I don’t think it’s always necessary. But in my business, you don’t want to put up with comments like, (whiny voice) “Eric, how come you didn’t replace the other bushing?” Therefore I replaced them both in the video.Thanks for your input.[/quote]
Haha fair enough! I have to admit – there was quite an entertainment value to watching you destroy the old rear bushings. Good video.
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