Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › The EricTheCarGuy Video Forum › Honda Element & CRV Alternator Replacement With Diagnosis
- This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 1 month ago by
Paul Christophersen.
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- January 12, 2018 at 3:18 pm #885591
Personally, I really like this video. I hope you do too.
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- January 13, 2018 at 1:28 am #885616
Regarding those 2 lower bolts, considering how far you’re reaching down into the engine bay in addition to not being able to see them, would it not be easier to access those 2 bolts from below? I’ve never worked on a Honda Element so I would imagine there must be some sort of obstacle that prevented you from doing so. If not, what did you get that lift for?!
January 13, 2018 at 3:45 pm #885625If I remember correctly they were difficult to reach from underneath as well.
January 15, 2018 at 1:38 am #885673Good video, informative.
Just two quibbles from the peanut gallery. First, it’s a good idea to unplug the electric radiator fan when jamming your hands underhood on a warm engine. Those fans can start up at any time, even with the engine off. Second, when cutting the excess off a zip tie, a utility knife will allow you to make the cut flush with the top of the connector. It’s much safer than having an engine bay bristling with razor-sharp plastic stubs. I’m sure we’ve all been raked by plastic thorns over the years. Not fun. (After cutting, I take the time to make a few passes over the connector with a file to blunt anything that may still be sticking out.)
January 15, 2018 at 2:48 pm #885685Fans can’t come on with the (-) batt cable removed which is the first thing I did. As for the zip tie, I ended up replacing the radiator and used a regular fastener so the zip tie is no longer there.
Thanks for your input.
August 24, 2018 at 9:59 pm #890344yes, my number 15 fuse was blown…..so i replaced it and it blew again……does that mean i need to replace the element?
thanks maureen
August 26, 2018 at 1:57 pm #890361It likely means you have a short in the wiring somewhere.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
January 5, 2023 at 10:28 pm #1023372I don’t have a power and ground meter, but using a voltmeter with the engine running I am getting 7.6volts on the white-green wire. Is that low enough that it should still trigger the alternator to charge? Or does that indicate a problem with the ELD or (hopefully not)ECM?
January 7, 2023 at 7:15 pm #1023380I went ahead and replaced the alternator, and that fixed my charging issue. So even if you see 7.6volts on the white-green wire, it still may be a bad alternator. Hope this information helps someone in the future.
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