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[quote=”aaronac8″ post=47004]Eric, I know you mention that different color coolants can not be mixed. So what is your opinion on a coolant like “Peak Long Life 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze and Coolant” that claims it is for ALL makes and models?
Also, this product description mentions that “Long Life coolant technology is formulated for use in all automobiles and light-duty trucks; OEM approved for GM, Ford, Chrysler and Honda vehicles”: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_long-life-50-50-prediluted-antifreeze-and-coolant-%281-gallon%29-peak_7020021-p?searchTerm=antifreeze#fragment-1%5B/quote%5D
Just received this email from Peak customer service: (my car is an acura 2009 TL):
Thanks for your e-mail. PEAK LONG LIFE ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT utilizes organic
acid technology (OAT). It meets ASTM Test Specification D-3306 and D-4340
which are the industry accepted quality standards for automotive coolant.
In addition, it also meets or exceeds Manufacturer’s performance
requirements. This formulation provides 5 years or 150,000 miles of
maximum corrosion protection for all makes and models of gasoline and light
duty diesel engine cooling systems when a complete cooling system flush and
fill is performed.The Extended Life corrosion inhibitor technology used in PEAK LONGLIFE
ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT has been used extensively and found to be compatible
with all known coolant technologies currently in use today. This allows
you to add it to your vehicle’s cooling system without any detrimental
effects. For maximum benefits a complete cooling system flush and fill is
required.You may safely use the PEAK LONG LIFE ANTIFREEZE in your Acura.
PEAK Tech Dept.
Just an FYI: the EPDM belts do not usually crack. The old neoprene belts did which have been phased out and replaced with the EPDM belts. Gates has a free belt wear gauge that anyone can get to use for checking wear on your belts. Here is a link to Gates which explains the difference between neoprene belt wear versus EPDM belt wear which includes a link to get the free wear gauge: http://www.gatesprograms.com/beltwear/beltwear
[quote=”moparfan7008″ post=46996]Eric,
at 6:38 in the video, is the rear lower control arm bushing worn/torn? Or does it seem so just because the arm is unloaded?[/quote]It’s not broken. That’s the way they come.
[quote=”aaronac8″ post=47004]Eric, I know you mention that different color coolants can not be mixed. So what is your opinion on a coolant like “Peak Long Life 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze and Coolant” that claims it is for ALL makes and models?
Also, this product description mentions that “Long Life coolant technology is formulated for use in all automobiles and light-duty trucks; OEM approved for GM, Ford, Chrysler and Honda vehicles”: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_long-life-50-50-prediluted-antifreeze-and-coolant-%281-gallon%29-peak_7020021-p?searchTerm=antifreeze#fragment-1%5B/quote%5D
I don’t have enough practical experience with that to have an opinion. Personally I try to go with the same stuff that came out no matter what to stay out of trouble. That’s why I have about 5 different types of coolant at the shop.
[quote=”bigmeat” post=47100]I looked at an element today. What is the reliability of this vehicle? The Elements I see in my neck of the woods have 90 to 100,000 miles and go for 7 to 10 thousands. Will these go to to 200 k?[/quote]
Mine has been a great vehicle. One of my favorites actually. I’ve had very few problems with it and I would recommend it to anyone who asked. The price of them has gone up quite a bit in the past few years since they stopped making them and I’m not surprised by this, they were quite popular before Honda stopped production a couple of years back.
Why does the climate control fan have to be off when the heater is on high during the bleeding of the cooling system? Does having the fan on cause the engine to take longer to reach operating temperature?
[quote=”aaronac8″ post=49174]Why does the climate control fan have to be off when the heater is on high during the bleeding of the cooling system? Does having the fan on cause the engine to take longer to reach operating temperature?[/quote]
Yes it does.
Hi Eric – at 20:13, was this the wrench that you used?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?tool=all&item_ID=633884&group_ID=675048&store=snapon-store
If so, can you confirm that a long (12″ or more) 14mm wrench with no offset is the best tool for replacing a serpentine belt on either a Honda Element or a Gen 2 or 3 Honda CRV?
Thanks.
[quote=”thecritic” post=54015]Hi Eric – at 20:13, was this the wrench that you used?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?tool=all&item_ID=633884&group_ID=675048&store=snapon-store
If so, can you confirm that a long (12″ or more) 14mm wrench with no offset is the best tool for replacing a serpentine belt on either a Honda Element or a Gen 2 or 3 Honda CRV?
Thanks.[/quote]
Those long Snap-on wrenches are among my favorites for working on Hondas. You can use them as described but there are also many other applications. I also have a Mac set that’s very good as well. They have different sizes however like 12-13mm instead of 12-14mm.
Eric:
1. Thanks for having a 2003 Honda Element – personally they are excellently “simple” and the parts are relatively easy to find.2. Thanks for making such concise and easy to follow videos.
3. Thanks for explaining how the $*%&(#(@#$* belt tensioner is moved. This made getting the alternator out and replaced a snap!
4. thanks for making an Alternator Replacement Video.
Well done, sir.
[quote=”theDiacetylkid” post=107638]Eric:
1. Thanks for having a 2003 Honda Element – personally they are excellently “simple” and the parts are relatively easy to find.2. Thanks for making such concise and easy to follow videos.
3. Thanks for explaining how the $*%&(#(@#$* belt tensioner is moved. This made getting the alternator out and replaced a snap!
4. thanks for making an Alternator Replacement Video.
Well done, sir.[/quote]
I’m happy to help!
I like everything about this second video except for your explanation of how the all wheel drive differential works.
the rear differential does not engage because of viscosity but because of a clutch.As the dual pump fluids name implies there are two hydraulic pumps working. one pump is driven by the drive shaft, the second by the rear axle. both pumps utilize the dual pump fluid. regardless of the fluid use, the differential pressure between these two pumps operates the clutch.
the main reason for using Honda’s fluid is that you can’t drain all the fluid out. You don’t want to introduce additives that may interact adversely with the honda fluids, or products that may have secondary properties incompatible with materials used by honda. This is true of most of the systems where honda is adamant about using their products.
The incomplete drain issue is even more significant for the AT, which DOES rely on viscosity for basic function. A normal drain and fill changes only 30-40% of the transmission fluid.
Personally, I don’t find any significant advantage to using a chemical product from another manufacturer when Honda has recommended a specific fluid, the cost of the materials is relatively small compared the cost of labor needed to completely drain and clean all residue of one product before introducing another.
My question is “why would you go cheap on antifreeze that is good for 110,000 miles?”
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