honda crv 1998 diagnostic socket location

[kieran]

Hi I have a Honda crv originally made for Japanese market in 1998 and imported to the uk in 2002 as a used car. I have tried to find the obd 2 socket but I cannot find one anywhere. I have checked both sides of the centre console and up around the steering and in behind the glove box but nothing. I have kept an eye out for the blue obd1 connector but cant find that either. I know obd 2 isn’t on the uk model of the crv until 2001 but dont know when obd2 was stand in Japan. Any help would be great.
Thanks 😉

Topic

[college man]

see if this helps. 🙂

[kieran]

Hi thank you I have seen this video and watched it while looking at my car and nothing is in that location on both sides of the centre console. Thank you very much for your help

[EricTheCarGuy]

You’ve got me on this one. The blue connector might be located behind one of the kick panels however. That’s about all I can offer on this one. Sorry. Please keep us updated if you’re able to find it.

[kieran]

Thanks I will check in the morning and add pictures if I find it.

[Bill]

Some older Japanese cars had a diagnostic connecter under the hood on or around the strut towers. It’s a small rectangular connecter with a cap on it. I believe the cap says DIAG on it.

[kieran]

Hi thanks for all the help.I searched for hours this morning using all the info provided by you and still cannot find the connector but I did find the connector to reset the eml but that will not show the codes on the dash by flashing the eml but it will reset it.
My car has a eml on and is idling rough and stalling when cold. The car will run when cold but you have to keep the revs up or it will stall and I can hear popping sound from the inlet manifold. When the car gets warm and the lpg kicks in or if its warm and I stay on petrol the car will only idle at about 500rpm and will not rev above 3000rpm. If I rev the car to max then release it the car cuts out.
I have just bought this car and the previous owner has just had the head gasket replaced and sold it not running right. I have had the inlet manifold back off and resealed it with a new gasket and checked around for leaks.
I thought this was going to be an easy fix because with it being an 2002 I thought would have obd2 so I could use my scanner. The car is a 2002 but its a 1998 Japanese import so its got 2002 reg but its a 1998 manufactured car so no obd2 🙁
The fast clicking on the video is the lpg injectors.

[kieran]

Hi thanks for all the help.I searched for hours this morning using all the info provided by you and still cannot find the connector but I did find the connector to reset the eml but that will not show the codes on the dash by flashing the eml but it will reset it.
My car has a eml on and is idling rough and stalling when cold. The car will run when cold but you have to keep the revs up or it will stall and I can hear popping sound from the inlet manifold. When the car gets warm and the lpg kicks in or if its warm and I stay on petrol the car will only idle at about 500rpm and will not rev above 3000rpm. If I rev the car to max then release it the car cuts out.
I have just bought this car and the previous owner has just had the head gasket replaced and sold it not running right. I have had the inlet manifold back off and resealed it with a new gasket and checked around for leaks.
I thought this was going to be an easy fix because with it being an 2002 I thought would have obd2 so I could use my scanner. The car is a 2002 but its a 1998 Japanese import so its got 2002 reg but its a 1998 manufactured car so no obd2 🙁
The fast clicking on the video is the lpg injectors.

[kieran]

Honda crv rough idle and popping sound: http://youtu.be/Rvptm7pq5EI

[valde]

You should firs find diagnostic connector it has one somewhere. Only thing that I was able to find is this http://alflash.com.ua/cr_v.htm It also says that car has memory erase connector also and it shows cover for those diagnostic connectors.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Sounds like a misfire to me. With that much work done and no success with the engine, I’m thinking it’s something someone screwed up. Perhaps they didn’t get a connector connected correctly, or they have the timing wrong, it found be a damaged component, or they did something wrong when doing the installation. I hate situations like this, it makes diagnosis that much harder. All I can say is start with the basics and then see what you can come up with. You might start by checking for voltage leaks since those are easy to check for.

This may also be helpful.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

Good luck and keep us posted.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Looks like your vehicle doesn’t have a DLC and even if it did, you wouldn’t be able to communicate with it.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2829730

That being the case, stick to basic diagnostics to find the problem.

[kieran]

Thanks I had a look where suggested but couldn’t see anything so I started removing the glove box and the radio surround (radio was out all ready) looking from the radio space I could see the little blue connector well well tucked up inside the dash.
Codes came back as tps sensor, map sensor , crank sensor, lambda sensor.
Here is a picture of the connector

[kieran]

Cannot get the picture to display sorry

[Player101]

Reset the ECU, do the check again, make sure all connectors are in the proper places(some of them look alike and its easy to connect them on the wrong spot. Reset the ECU and check every time u change something. The problem u have comes from the petrol system, since the LPG system only “repeats” the signals from the ECU. Whatever engine running problem happens while on petrol will repeat itself when LPG kicks in.

[Author]

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