Honda CR-V front-end thumping noises

[Dan]

Hey everyone! I recently picked up a project vehicle for super cheap! It’s a 2000 Honda CR-V LX (automatic). Got it from a friend after they decided to buy a new car instead of invest in repairing the CRV. (It was misfiring in all cylinders — I changed out the oil-soaked spark plugs and replaced the valve cover gasket / spark plugs o-rings, it seemed to have done the trick and she’s runnin’ fine).

Anywho, I’ve done some work to it but there’s one thing I just can’t figure out. When driving at lower speeds (less than 40mph it seems), there is a thumping noise coming from what sounds like the front passenger tire area. I can sort of feel it in the steering wheel.

I watched common diagnosis videos on line — jacked the front end up and wiggled the wheels at 12-6 and 9-3 positions and there was no play in the wheel. Took the wheels off and used a pry bar to try to find any loose components – everything seems sturdy. The sway bar links and bushings are fine too. Ball joints seem okay.

What I *did* notice is two things, and I’m hoping maybe someone with experience might be able to guide me in the right direction.

(1) I noticed some play in the steering wheel. I’m not too familiar with this aspect of cars since I’ve been a learn-as-I-go kinda guy, so I have some research to do. Anyway, what I noticed is when I turn the wheel quickly left/right, there’s a small thumping noise at what appears to be a u-joint where it meets the drive axle (sorry if this is the wrong terminology – I’ll edit if I find more correct names of the parts.

(2) I can feel some play in the cv axle when I lay under the car and shake it. Online info says I should hear a “clicking” noise while turning if the cv axle has gone bad, but I don’t hear it.

With all that info, and if you have any experience with this, do either of those two things sound like the culprit? I understand it’s tough to make a diagnosis online, so this may be a long shot anyway. Also, anything else I can check?

Thanks everyone!

Topic

[Monty Howard]

I would check two things. The CV Axel can create noise as the joint travels around. You should also take a look at the control arms, if the bushings on the arms are bad you will hear a metal bang like noise similar to someone hitting the cast iron arm with a hammer.

I have not looked at this vehicle but my guess, if the noise is a loud bang when decelerating, accelerating or turning it most likely is the control arm. If it is a slightly softer noise check the CV Axel (the noise is hard to describe in writing).

You can find parts online for about 1/3 the cost of a local parts store. Some places may offer control arms for both sides with extra fittings if you want to do everything while you have the front end apart.

BE SURE TO DO A WHEEL ALIGNMENT after working on your front end.

[James]

WIth the 1st question, are you saying your outer tie rod is loose. That can explain your loose stearing as well.

CV Axels can have a little movement but should not be able to move all over the place. Most the time you will hear the clicking or thrumbing in turns if that is the case.

Lastly check out Erics FAQ
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

[Dan]

You should also take a look at the control arms, if the bushings on the arms are bad you will hear a metal bang like noise similar to someone hitting the cast iron arm with a hammer.

if the noise is a loud bang when decelerating, accelerating or turning it most likely is the control arm. If it is a slightly softer noise check the CV Axel (the noise is hard to describe in writing).

Thanks so much for the reply. Going to reply to each of your suggestions, not necessarily expecting a secondary reply but for everyone who may be viewing. Control arms seem fine to me – thanks for describing the noise – not hearing a loud bang or anything, more of a deep “thunk”.

To your second point about the control arm, it’s not specific to accelerating or decelerating, it’s more of a thunk noise when hitting small bumps in the road while driving. I notice that at highway speeds it doesn’t really happen.

I was thinking it might be the struts/springs? I saw one video where the upper mount (where the struts screw in under the hood) was loose, but I’m not sure how to diagnose. I should mention that when I bounce on the car while stationary I *cannot* reproduce the noise. That’s what has me so irritated!! Lol. I don’t see anything leaking btw. I saw a few vids online saying to look for something leaking, that’s why I bring it up.

[Dan]

WIth the 1st question, are you saying your outer tie rod is loose. That can explain your loose stearing as well.

Outer tie rods are nice and firm – I had issues with my outer tie rods on my previous vehicle, and was hoping to have the same diagnosis here Lol. Unfortunately not the case!

CV Axels can have a little movement but should not be able to move all over the place. Most the time you will hear the clicking or thrumbing in turns if that is the case.

It does have a little movement – in fact it was the *only* thing that wiggled slightly when I tugged on it. There is no noticeable clicking while turning. Everything else, surprisingly, seems nice and tight. That’s why I’m so frustrated – was thinking this would be an easy diagnosis! Luckily ETCG has this forum.

Lastly check out Erics FAQ
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

Thanks so much — digging into this right now. I saw some of his suspension vids on Youtube but didn’t think to check here for his whole collection! Will report back if I find anything.

[David]

Check the front end struts or shocks. Also check the top bearings condition on the strut.

[Mike]

FWIW, bad ball joints or control arm bushings can be harder to diagnose because you have to use a prybar to check for play in them..
Most often, neither of these will be noticeable on a “shake the wheel test”–especially control arm bushings.
Look for any tears in the control arm bushings or movement in the control arm when pried near each bushing.

Helpful videos include

Bushing replacement covered here:

If the noise is from the rear suspension

An out of round tire or a tire whose steel belt has shifted can cause a rhythmic thump.
Easiest test is to move the suspected tire to a new position and see if the noise moves with it.
If you drive the car with the windows rolled down, so you can better hear the noise, drive past parked cars or very close to the street buildings, and listen for the sound to get louder.
I’m sure you realize that if it’s loudest when you first get to the parked car, it’s a front wheel.
Loudest when the back of the car is next to the parked car is a rear wheel.
You can drive down a one way street and hear if it’s louder on the driver’s or passenger’s side.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations/wheel-alignment-loose-suspension-parts-and-vibrations

[Jake F]

Your sound seems localized so it could be a strut mount going bad or misalignment (not a safety hazard, just annoying). Or, it could be your rack. Two people for this. Parked with engine off with hood open. Someone chokes the steering wheel from 11 o’clock to 1 o’clock.

[Author]

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