when the car is first started and running low. try tapping on_x000D_
the IAC with the screw driver handle. see if the idle changes._x000D_
if it does then replace the IAC. try turning the ac on. see if the_x000D_
car idle increases. I’m suspecting the IAC.
Sorry for the late reply guys, my car doesn’t do what it does in the above videos anymore. Now it just idles high @ 1500RPM. The new problem is intermittent._x000D_
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[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_d6RdWijSmE&feature=youtu.be]http://www.youtube.co
I’ll take a look into bleeding my coolant tomorrow, but I don’t have a bleeder screw. But I’ve read to just run the car with the cap off, heater on and until the fans come on twice. Is this correct or should I try something different ?
I’d say that may just be pretty conclusive, that it’s the IACV. Of course, you can try bleeding the air out of the cooling system anyway. If you remove the radiator cap and run it, you will need
You DO NOT need a bleeder screw to bleed the cooling system._x000D_
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Ill post a link to one of Eric’s videos on bleeding the cooling system -_x000D_
_x000D_ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1 … ure=relmfu
Another thing that will cause a high idle on hondas is the coolant temp sensor. when these go bad the ecu dosen’t detect that the engine is warmed up and will keep the idle high as if the car is still ” warming up ” you can test it with a dvom (
Are the IACs on Civics able to be tested? I know on my car I just probe between the pins and check for resistance. Ideally you want them to be at 0 ohms during the test, I know there is a maximum ohms listed though.
Thanks everyone for advice ! I’ve called a few places with the IACV, and they’re all wanting between $100 to $150 for a used part. Guess I’ll end up ordering off ebay and keep you guys posted 🙂