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What I’ve done in these situations is put a dab of sealer in a few spots around the pan to hold the gasket while I work the assembly in place. Don’t over do it on the sealer – it’s there to hold the gasket, not seal.
I’ve never heard of using 3m adhesive to hold a gasket – I thought that stuff is for upholstery, carpets, etc. not engines.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
You do need to remove the cover to get the pan off and have access to the rear pan fasteners, you can simply unbolt it from the transmission and engine by removing the fasteners for the cover.
I have the 3 bolts for the cover off, but it is interlocked with the oil pan and the cover for the auto shift cable.
Do I have to also remove the shift cable cover to get the (black) cover off?Here is a trick I have used in the past for keeping the pan gasket on during install…
lay the gasket in place on the pan , next use a couple of small zip ties to secure the gasket ( don’t need to cinch them too tight just enough to hold the gasket )
I usually use the holes next to the end holes ( two per side is usually enough )put the pan in place , put bolts in the open holes to hold the pan and then just cut the zip ties off and install the final bolts and torque to specs.
sorry but I don’t have any tips for your other questions. keep us posted on your progress.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Personally I use just a small amount of Honda bond as suggested to secure the gasket to the pan, just in a few spots to hold it in place. I mostly do it this way because if I’m going to end up scraping stuff off I’d rather do it off of the pan at the parts washer than under the engine as it drips oil on my face. That said even if you use an OE gasket expect it to start to leak within a year even with the most care as those gaskets are famous for leaking, I think it has something to do with their thickness and the material they are made from which seems to get brittle after a few heat cycles. A good way to extend it’s usefulness however is to torque the fasteners to the correct spec, I’m sad to say I don’t know what that is but what I do is use a chordless drill with the clutch set to 15 to get consistant torque on all fasteners. You’re looking for just a slight amount of ‘crush’ as you tighten the fasteners, you don’t want to see it squishing out as you tighten things down. BTW my chordless drill is a Ryobi.
I’ve had really good luck using Felpro gaskets on all sorts of makes – easier to get, they work, and are cheaper than the dealer stuff.
OK – Thanks for all the good advice.
I figured out how to get the torque converter cover off.
You DO need to remove the shift cable cover (if it’s any automatic transmission).
Here are a couple pics showing how it is interlocked with the shift cable cover.
Closer view showing how cover is engaged:
Finally, covers and oil pan OFF!
Hope this helps.
OK – So no need for hi-tack/liquid gasket adhesive stuff to hold it in place – just a few spots with HondaBond.
And as far as attaching it to the block rather than the oil pan — Is there any merit in doing this?
Here’s the link where that method was recommended: http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/d … rds-10981/It all depends on how much room you have to work with.
I would use a small amount of sealer to hold it to the oil pan, then start to thread in a few of the bolts at each corner of the oil pan. Check how the oil pan gasket is sealing then install and torque down the rest of the bolts.
Question – How do you take off the inspection cover to the tranny so the pan will come off.
I have all the bolts out of the oil pan and the inspection cover, but it is kind of interlocked so that even with the cover loose, I can’t remove the pan.
Do I have to remove the transmission shift cable cover?
Personally I use just a small amount of Honda bond as suggested to secure the gasket to the pan, just in a few spots to hold it in place. I mostly do it this way because if I’m going to end up scraping stuff off I’d rather do it off of the pan at the parts washer than under the engine as it drips oil on my face. That said even if you use an OE gasket expect it to start to leak within a year even with the most care as those gaskets are famous for leaking, I think it has something to do with their thickness and the material they are made from which seems to get brittle after a few heat cycles. A good way to extend it’s usefulness however is to torque the fasteners to the correct spec, I’m sad to say I don’t know what that is but what I do is use a chordless drill with the clutch set to 15 to get consistant torque on all fasteners. You’re looking for just a slight amount of ‘crush’ as you tighten the fasteners, you don’t want to see it squishing out as you tighten things down. BTW my chordless drill is a Ryobi.
Thanks Eric – Your logic makes perfect sense.
The Honda service manual I have says the pan bolts should be torqued to 14NM = 10 ft/lbs.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc25 … OilPan.jpg
I’ve also seen 8.8 ft/lbs, but think that is within the range of error for most torque wrenches.Also, can you provide any insight into the auto tranny inspection cover question I posted above?
Thanks!
You do need to remove the cover to get the pan off and have access to the rear pan fasteners, you can simply unbolt it from the transmission and engine by removing the fasteners for the cover.
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