Honda Accord 1996 – EGR valve

[stavrich]

Hi all

Honda Accord 2.0, Auto, 1996.

In my un-ending quest to get rid of the annoying vibration when stationary and in D or R, I have decided to check the EGR valve.

Found the valve to be quite loose and I tightened down as per Erik’s video (loose about 3 turns).

Previously with engine cold the revs till warm up were around 1300 and then dropping down to 700.

Now, after tightening down the EGR valve, with engine cold the reves are about 800 ( engine feels lumpy) and then the revs drop down to 700.

Have I done something wrong
Do i need to check anything else

Somehow I managed to make things worse :sick:
Many Thanks

Topic

[college man]

I think you mean the fast idle valve not the egr.

[EricTheCarGuy]

First it’s not an EGR valve it’s actually the fast idle valve and it sounds like you tightened it too much, you need to back it off at least a quarter turn after it bottoms out. I’ve actually put together a ‘speech’ on this issue that I’ll post for you here.

By suggestion I’m going to post my idle speech along with a couple of video links that I hope will help if your having problems with your Honda’s idle.  First I’ll give you the link to the Solving Honda Idle Problems video, please remember that adjusting the FITV is the LAST step in the process and you need to back it off at least 1/2 turn after it bottoms out or it will not start properly when cold.

The Bleeding a Cooling System Video

The video response to the Honda Idle video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMjQry8mz-E&feature=watch_response

Lastly here is the “Idle Speech”

There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of a 4 cylinder engine however here are some things to start with.

First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE.  A quality cap and rotor should be good.  A new air filter also helps.

Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.

Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.

While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle.  If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.

DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place.  If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.

Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.

If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.

I hope this info is helpful as I get a TON of questions about Honda idle problems, thanks for reading.

[stavrich]

A deliberate mistake to see if anybody is paying attention – (just my feeble excuse :blush: )

You are both absolutely right.

I have backed it off by 3/4 and its much better now.

I have done most of the items in the “idle speed” apart from replacing the plugs, cleaning the the screen in the Idle Air Control valve and checking the timing belt.

I think the engine is getting a little bit tired after only 227k miles – my previous 1993 Accord gave me 330k miles with no problems – dont make them like that anymore 🙁

Question — what’s the ideal idle speed in Neutral / Park and in D or R

Thanks Eric – and I am really impressed that you have the time to reply to most postings.

Keep up the good work!!!

Cheers

[dreamer2355]

Usually the idle speed can be located on the emissions sticker under the hood. Or Eric may know the exact range 🙂

[fitone]

As Dreamer stated look under the hood for emmisions sticker. But idle in D should be 700 rpm and in park will be around 900 rpm. If you notice the bold line mark on your tach. it should correspond to 700 rpm at idle in D. Just an FYI, don’t use the idle screw on the intake to adjust idle.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”dreamer2355″ post=35285]Usually the idle speed can be located on the emissions sticker under the hood. Or Eric may know the exact range :)[/quote]

+1. I believe it’s 750rpm in drive on an auto trans.

[angel]

what is a EGR valve for a mercury marquis 1994, I was told I need one. It was on top of engine, does it control the air intake or is a iddler. I’m confused.

[college man]

[quote=”Moonlight” post=53657]what is a EGR valve for a mercury marquis 1994, I was told I need one. It was on top of engine, does it control the air intake or is a iddler. I’m confused.[/quote]

see if this helps.

[angel]

I’m start mechanic school in may. I’m backyard mechanic, I’ve change my own oil, replaced my raditor, spark plugs, changed my tempstat , ect. But I still learning. I apperate your help. When I when to sign up for classes he said that I would be in advance electric systems. I’ve been searching for info. so I don’t fall behind. I understand where it start but When he say building a fuse box it confuse me. I understand that the wires, connecters, harness, ect. any info, would be apperated.thanks.

[Bad_dude]

Check your front and rear mount. Fix the front mount first, I guarantee it will reduce the stationary R for sure. It also helps with the D but the vibration might still be there but replace the rear and your car will be almost no vibration. If you want the car to shift a little more smoothly and put more torque to the ground, see if you could get Poly inserts for the front mount. This stops the jumping around of your engine for sure.

[quote=”stavrich” post=35090]Hi all

Honda Accord 2.0, Auto, 1996.

In my un-ending quest to get rid of the annoying vibration when stationary and in D or R
Many Thanks[/quote]

[Author]

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