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Quoted From D.Hill:
Thanks for your replies! Much appreciated. I couldn’t get any more information. However I was reading this article I found which is related to my problem which might be of use http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3009319
I have the Accord Wagon so I am not sure where I am able to find the Sensors.Cheers
That was an interesting link. We also have a free link to Chilton’s online that may be some more help to you in the ‘How To’ section.
I had a link on this DIY. This guide was done for people who want LED bulbs in their cars and those that had trouble with the brake lamp staying on. I had that problem and what I did was removed the little brown box on the driver’s side rear brake light housing. I clean it and check the contacts, and the lamp went off. The only time you would want to bypass it is b/c you installed LED bulbs which will cause low current draws and the brake lamp will stay on all the time. You can also short the box and have it off all the time.
Let me see if I can find that link for you.Ask and you shall receive. I found this link with pictures, perhaps it could help youl
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3009319Good luck.
It’s true that if you don’t use the correct bulbs of the correct type (OE is the safest and best to use) that light will stay on, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen this but as stated if everything works then the problem is not the sensor circuit but most likely the bulbs being used.
Thanks Bad_dude, and Eric.
I’ll try and replace the other two bulbs that I haven’t replaced yet..
Also I do want to find the sensor boxes so i can just have a look. Where do i find them on the station wagon? because the lights just have pop out fittings for the bulbs.Cheers
Hi Guys, I have officially replaced all the bulbs now, including the high brake lamp. Still have the ‘Brake Lamp’ Light on.
Does anyone know where the sensors are on the Honda Accord 1993 Wagon? The bulbs push into a holder which screw onto the light fitting so there is no box connected in the tail lights. Any ideas?
Cheers
Hey Guys, Quick update on the sensor situation..
I managed to locate the sensors (they were attached the outer lights) and I found some new ones for $7 and poped them in.
I still have the same issue as this did not fix anything. I have now replaced the bulbs, and sensors. And have no idea what is left in the circuit? The only things I can think of are something to do with the ground? But all the ground connectors look ok. Is their a fuse for this circuit?
Anyone have any more idea?Thanks
Damien
The sensors measure the resistance of the circuit and if there is incorrect resistance say if you have a blown out bulb or something it will trip the light on the dash. That said you’re looking for a resistance problem if it’s not the bulbs then perhaps the sockets are corroded enough to cause the excess resistance or some other part of the circuit (wiring, connectors, etc.). If you replaced the sensors with aftermarket units I think this was a mistake because in my experience this system is VERY sensitive and using non stock parts can actually make things worse.
Hey Eric,
Thank you for your reply! Sorry I should have mentioned, the sensors I replaced were OE Honda ones. I purchased them from a junk yard, and they looked in good condition. I did have some sucess the other day however, I hoped in the car and turned the key to II position and all the lights when off including the indicator thinking I had solved it. As soon as I cranked the engine the light came back on and has stayed on. I took half the boot out to find the connectors and cleaned those all up. So I am left stuck as I have new sensors, new bulbs and clean connectors. Would you suggest anything else I could check? Do you think genuine honda bulbs would help? or should I try cleaning the light fittings out more? as thats what I did prior to it going out for the time it did.Damien
As I stated that system works based on the resistance in the circuit (this means ANYWHERE in the entire circuit from the bulb to the fuse to increased resistance at the ground), if the resistance is not to Honda spec the light will turn on this is how the circuit was designed. I’ve never had issue with Honda bulbs but I have with other brands.
I’ll result to buying Honda Bulbs and report back when I do. Is their anything interesting behind the dash? or is the circuit just connected directly to a bulb?
Cheers.
I don’t know if you mentioned it, but did you check the third brake light bulb by the rear wiper? Instead of wasting money replacing all of the bulbs, you have to consider this, was the warning brake lamp light on all the time when you got the car or did it just happened recently? If just recently, trace back to what you were doing? In my case, I had a trunk leak and in CA, it never rain too heavy but that day it did. So in the process of replacing the light gasket, I had to remove the lens housing and its circuitry. I some how pull on the black wire a little on that brown box. The lamp all of sudden stayed on one day. I checked all of the bulbs and no luck. I remove the brown box and checked for short, push that black wire in a little in the brown box. And the warning lamp went off. So I thought either I fixed the problem or totally disconnected the ground wire thus the sensor is no longer working. I pulled a bulb out and warning light went back on. Now I know the system is working as it should.
The car is old and if you are not the first owner, trust no one, check out the housing. If you have a trunk leak, replace those light gaskets first. They are like $6 at the dealer each. My trunk totally dry and no rust yet. Before I could fix the leak, I put baking soda all over the trunk to kill the germs and help absorb the moisture. My car always smell good from the Arm and hammer baking soda carpet powder. The cheapest and best way to keep your car really smelling fresh. $1.72 a box last me over a year.chiming in a little late. found some info that might help. read the threads by Frank Allen He seems to have a diagnostic approach to your problem.
Hope this helps. C8-)
Quoted From college man:
chiming in a little late. found some info that might help. read the threads by Frank Allen He seems to have a diagnostic approach to your problem.
Hope this helps. C8-)
That was an interesting read however I do disagree that the circuit does not rely on resistance because in a round about way it does, if there’s too much resistance caused by either a blown bulb or a bad connection the light goes on by design. However we now have a wire and a test for it, well done.
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