honda

[undertree100]

i have a 1996 honda accord starts up runs till car warms up then it dies then you have to hold throttle open to start it back up, then it wont idle , but runs if you keep your foot on pedal , but runs ruff

Topic

[Sorcerer]

It runs until it’s up to operating temp? or just for a few minutes idling (how many)? Can you drive it down the road a few miles before this appears?

Ever put any tune up parts on your car ie: cap, rotor, sparkplugs, air filter?

Does the car need to cool right back down again to start and run for a while again?

[dreamer2355]

Welcome to the forums! C8-)

Is there a check engine light on?

And as stated above, when was the last time a tune up was completed?

If your having to depress the accelerator pedal to help with the start up, that will place the vehicle in a clear flood mode.

I would consider doing a fuel injector leak down test.

[EricTheCarGuy]

I’ll start with the ‘idle speech’
By suggestion I’m going to post my idle speech along with a couple of video links that I hope will help if your having problems with your Honda’s idle. First I’ll give you the link to the Solving Honda Idle Problems video, please remember that adjusting the FITV is the LAST step in the process and you need to back it off at least 1/2 turn after it bottoms out or it will not start properly when cold.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblYThe Bleeding a Cooling System Videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUp … =relmfuThe video response to the Honda Idle videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMj … onseLastly here is the “Idle Speech”There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of a 4 cylinder engine however here are some things to start with.First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.I hope this info is helpful as I get a TON of questions about Honda idle problems, thanks for reading.

[Amsterdam]

[twiggy]

Try looking on Ebay. I got a manual for my 08 Civic on ebay from Bishko books. They seem to have a lot of hard to find service manuals. Mine came as a PDF file on a CD.

[college man]

heres a link that should help. I like the cd versionC8-)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= … l&_sacat=0 honda fsm

[Rob Miller]

I have the same issue just this week and it runs for 1-2 min’s then abrubtly stops. Coughs a bit to get it strated with gas pedal down most of the way and have to keep the RPM above 1.2K to stay running UNLESS I feather the pedel off slowly.

It would then idle, somewhat smothly. If I shift into gear, it will stall unless I hold then brake, rev it up, then shift.

I had the valves aligned just recently and it also started to throw code #3 misfire. I also noticed that when the code was on, I tried to rev above 3K and it would rev limit back down to 2.5K, then cycle upto 3K then back down..

rjmiller

[Rob Miller]

I have the same issue just this week and it runs for 1-2 min’s then abrubtly stops. Coughs a bit to get it strated with gas pedal down most of the way and have to keep the RPM above 1.2K to stay running UNLESS I feather the pedel off slowly.

It would then idle, somewhat smothly. If I shift into gear, it will stall unless I hold then brake, rev it up, then shift.

I had the valves aligned just recently and it also started to throw code #3 misfire. I also noticed that when the code was on, I tried to rev above 3K and it would rev limit back down to 2.5K, then cycle upto 3K then back down..

rjmiller

[Rob Miller]

OK, issue is fixed….

Once I cleared the codes, the engine would not stall after 2 mins and would rev up over 4k easily. I read somewhere about Honda’s going into this ‘limp’ mode if the ECU detected this type of code, so thought what the heck, clear the codes to prove it.

So how come I got the code in the 1st place? Well it turned out that prior work done to locate a knocking noise, resulted in a poor attempt to adjust the valves to eliminate that possible noise from being the culprit. In check I g the valve gap, #3 was wayyyy to tight on both intake and exhaust. 1st attempt at doing my own adjustment, resulted in a nice idle but noisy valve train. As Eric mentions in his video, its an acquired skill. 2nd attempt and everything is perfect….now to take on a little longer trip that 2miles

Now for the timing belt which I can hear slapping the timing cover, but that’s for another day(:/

Rjmiller

[Rob Miller]

OK, issue is fixed….

Once I cleared the codes, the engine would not stall after 2 mins and would rev up over 4k easily. I read somewhere about Honda’s going into this ‘limp’ mode if the ECU detected this type of code, so thought what the heck, clear the codes to prove it.

So how come I got the code in the 1st place? Well it turned out that prior work done to locate a knocking noise, resulted in a poor attempt to adjust the valves to eliminate that possible noise from being the culprit. In check I g the valve gap, #3 was wayyyy to tight on both intake and exhaust. 1st attempt at doing my own adjustment, resulted in a nice idle but noisy valve train. As Eric mentions in his video, its an acquired skill. 2nd attempt and everything is perfect….now to take on a little longer trip that 2miles

Now for the timing belt which I can hear slapping the timing cover, but that’s for another day(:/

Rjmiller

[EricTheCarGuy]

Glad you found the issue, thanks for the update. BTW I have a video on the timing belt replacement for that engine available on this website on the VManuals page. Thanks for keeping us up to date and for using the ETCG forum.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Glad you found the issue, thanks for the update. BTW I have a video on the timing belt replacement for that engine available on this website on the VManuals page. Thanks for keeping us up to date and for using the ETCG forum.

[college man]

Thanks for the update. 🙂

[college man]

Thanks for the update. 🙂

[Author]

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