Higher compression on one cylinder = Higher oil consumption

[NiCoXis]

Since last oil change my car has been consuming a lot more than usual, so I had to change it with just 3500-4000 km (not miles) on it because level getting too low (close to the L mark on the dipstick).

Car background:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topics.aspx?ID=1259
(I should note that we changed NGK BKR5E

Topic

[EricTheCarGuy]

Don’t forget to have the cylinders bored and honed or you may be wasting your time, at the very least you need to measure them to make sure they’re in spec. If you have to bore out the engine you’re going to have to get new larger pistons as well.

[NiCoXis]

Update: Some (not so good) news

The oil consumption and higher compression was due to the valves slightly touching the pistons, getting bent and therefore not sealing properly. The higher compression in my opinion was due to the oil that was being poured inside the cylinder.

Me and some friends went on a track day and after some intense use the engine started to do a pinging noise, my first thought was “I blew it”.
And I was right, this is how I felt

LOL

But oh well. After taking it to the shop, we opened it up and this is what we first found,

What you can see in the pictures is that the valve relief that we did to the piston was not enough and the valves dug some material on the sides of the reliefs (not sure if my explanation is grammatically correct).

Then we took the valves off the cylinder head and confirmed our theory, we had 4 intake and 1 exhaust valves bent.

But then there was that pinging noise. That was the last surprise, piston was touching the lower part of cylinder 2 and did some very ugly damage. So we can’t avoid overboring the engine.

The thing is that to avoid my previous clearance issues I bought standard SR16VE pistons (pictured bellow) because I tough we wouldn’t need re-boring the engine. So my mechanic said we could machine the engine then do a cylinder skirting process (not sure what’s the precise term in english) to go back to standard bore (86mm).

So far, I got new valves, new pistons, new rings, new gaskets, new valve seals, new rod bearings and today they are doing the cylinder machining and putting the new valves in my (cylinder) head. LOL

And that’s it, back to studios! hahahah

[hbvx]

Woah, thanks for the update. Hopefully the process gets you a solid engine afterward.

Any thoughts regarding oil to use after the job is done?

[NiCoXis]

Quoted From hbvx:

Woah, thanks for the update. Hopefully the process gets you a solid engine afterward.

Any thoughts regarding oil to use after the job is done?

That’s a good point actually, I’ve been looking at my possible options (not so much here given chilean market size),

– Liqui Moly MoS2-LEICHTLAUF SAE 10W-40
– Royal Purple 10W-40
– Castrol RS 0W-40
– A good SAE API SN oil + Liqui Moly CERATEC additive

In general I prefer more oil changes and less miles (on reasonably priced oil) than more miles in the same oil (expensive oil)

Any recommendations are welcome!

[hbvx]

Well, given that Idemitsu and XOM make some of the Factory Fills(Honda/Toyota respectively) and both at some point/currently seem to have a good bit of ‘moly’, IIRC…

Therefore, I suggest using an oil of appropriate grade(your stated 40 grade if you are tracking it, OTOH most 4-cylinder Hondas street driven prefer 30 grade, IMO)

Of course, for price you could always use a HDEO like Rotella T6, Mobil1 TDT, etc. if wanting to stick with that grade.

You could always try ‘upgrading’ to a 5w-30 Euro-spec oil as they seem to deliver great results with wear protection in mind above all and act like a 40 SAE grade anyway in some of it’s characteristics. Like the “German Castrol” 0w-30 craze, which can be hard to find. Both are more expensive, but what 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, oil isn’t? If you are paying for off the shelf 0w-40, get Mobil1 0w-40. Sold now by the jug in some places. It is the best bang for your buck 40, IMO. Mobil1’s real pride and joy right now.

Red Line has a break-in additive, if you want to spike a base-line conventional oil. It is ‘harmful’ if over-used and can cause corrosion. I would skip the CERATEC on a used engine of this mileage, IMO. It’s only temporary, though, so I don’t think it would hurt. I don’t have enough info on that additive, seems newer for retail market. So, that’s why I suggest a more traditional break-in additive.

I’m personally trying Lubegard’s Bio-Tech right now for kicks, as it ‘will’ increase the phosphorous, moly, and and I believe zinc as well.(at least the first 2). Some UOAs have shown this to be the case, when used as directed. Almost 500 ppm for each for the sample, so that’s a nice boost. When used properly, the Red Line break-in additive may do the same. Less is more, there, but follow the directions and you should be GTG. Just don’t dump the entire thing in is all. 😀

[EricTheCarGuy]

Wow that sounds expensive but at least you found the issue, thanks for keeping us up to date and for all of the great pics you posted.

[NiCoXis]

Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:

Wow that sounds expensive but at least you found the issue, thanks for keeping us up to date and for all of the great pics you posted.

You mean the guy falling off the speaker set right? hahahaha LOL

Jokes aside, I’ve learned a lot from these mistakes and we’ve made all the corrections so the engine now runs more reliable with the modifications that I’ve made to it.

Today we took the block to do the machining and the cylinder head is ready. We’re doing the engine (hopefully tomorrow) build outside the car because there is just too little space so work there, so I hope I can take lots of pictures of the process and share with the ETCG community.

Stay tuned (and dirty!)

[EricTheCarGuy]

Click away, a picture is worth a 1000 words.

[Author]

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