- This topic has 25 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 11 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Here is my problem, I was going to start this project on the weekend but I have some other things to take care of. I am replacing a water pump, crank seal, harmonic balancer and belt. well everthing started out ok until I got to the water pump. one of the bolts that hold it to the block has the bolt head broken off. There is only about a 1/4 in sticking out. The bolt goes thru the other side of the ear but there is not a lot sticking out. I first used PB Blaster, then vice grips, i dont
-
Replies
-
Do you have a aircompressor with a cut off wheel?
What i do sometimes is cut a slot in the broken bolt then use a big flat blade screw driver with vice grips on the screw driver.
This works for me most of the time.It has been posted before that using candle wax to loosen the bolt works amazing ( never tried it myself ) from what I gathered you heat the stuck bolt and apply the wax to it. the heat draws the wax into the threads and the suck bolt loosens up . craftsman sells a number of tools for grabbing the bolt its self . one style looks like a socket but is spiraled on the inside. the spirals bite into the bolt as you turn it to remove the bolt. the other is a universal style stud remover but those need a decent amount of space to use.
You might also try left handed (sometimes called reverse twist) drill bits. Most auto parts stores carry them. If you try it, just remember to run the drill in reverse while you’re drilling into the bolt. Many times the drill bit will grab ahold of the bolt once it makes its way in a bit and twist it out.
OK- I just re-read your post and realized you’re probably not going to have enough room to drill it out… I’d give the candle wax a shot with a good set of pliers. You also might try tapping on the head what’s left of the bolt with whatever you can fit in there. Sometimes a little “percussion treatment” will loosen it up. It might be galled, in which case, when you finally get it out it will take the threads with it but it’s nothing a helicoil or time sert can’t fix.
Hi DrivewayAl,
All great suggestions above. In addition, another technique is to thread another nut onto the threads of the broken fastener and weld the nut to the fastener. Once welded, removal of the fastener can be attempted again by a wrench or socket. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks Guys, all great tips. I have about a 1/4in of the broken bolt sticking out. its somewhat mangled from the vice vice grips. I stopped at NAPA this morning and they had an erwin bolt extractor kit. I will try that after work today. Problem is the water pump stud is small, maybe 3/16 or so. My buddy is coming over tonight with a 110 welder and maybe we will try to weld nut on. Thanks.
Driveway Al
1/4″ should be enough to vise grip. What I would do is get a MAPP/propane gas and heat up the bolt and the block. It will get hot but not hot enough to melt the metal. Then vise grip after – the key is getting a good grip before turning.
Another thing you can try is to position a punch and hammer. make sure that the punch is positioned to push in counter clock position.
All great suggestions C8-)
Keep us posted on the outcome and maybe take some pictures and do a “how to..” for another of forum member that might run into this issue?
Thanks, yes I tried visegrips and the Mapp torch. Only 1/ 4 to grab. They kept slipping off, and also not much room to manuever. I had to loosen up the engine mounts just to get the clearance to remove the water pump. I tried the bolt remover, but even that is not a good size. It was slipping off. I was being careful with the vice grips because i did not want to gouge up the aluminum block. My buddy is coming over later with a right angle air drill. Hopefully there is enough space for that. He also has a 110 welder and try and weld a nut on. I just don’t want to damage the block. I will keep you guys posted. Any more suggestions are more than welcome.
Driveway Al
1. Try a shallow extractor similar to a Snap-on tools P/N TFSY10A. Id put up a picture if I knew how to sory. Sears should have one, just find one small enough.
2. Heat up broken bolt untill its cherry red hot then wait for it to cool to the touch and back it out with a vice-grips
3. Weld a nut to the end off the broken bolt and back it out with a wrench.Hey, here is what I did last night with the van to get bolt out. I ended up buying an ingersall rand right angle air drill and drilling it out with that. It was the only tool I could get in there with. Cost $129.00. Wife does not know about this investment. Even when I drill thru using a reverse bit the bolt was so seized it did not want to back out, so i ended up using 1/4 inch bit finally to back clean hole thru. I then just put new bolt thru and put nut on the backside. Figures water pump i got from NAPA had wrong gasket in there so i had to make run over to pep boys and buy a Bosch pump. Guys, I tried every means available and the only sure way to get a bolt like that out is to drill. center punch, then work your way up in bit size. Another thing when I ran the vehicle to check for leaks the water pump was good, but the crank seal is still leaking, even after I put in a new one. That was the same problem that the old seal had that caused the harmonic balancer to come apart. Oil got on the ring and it seperated. Does anyone know why this could happen with a new seal? Could it be the crankshaft itself? Thanks.
Driveway Al
Great that you got the fastener removed! As for the crankshaft seal, does the lip of the new seal come in contact with where the previous seal contact the crank? It is common for the crankshaft to develop a “roughed-up” area where the crank contacts the lip seal. Some replacement lip seals are made to have a different contact point on the crank when installed. That is what comes to mind first. I am interested to read what others think, Keep us posted.
Again, great job on the bolt removal!!!
BigC
Thanks, I am going to remove the seal I put in and try another one. Is there any brand of seal in particular that is better? The seal I used was an SKF #11122 from NAPA. Cost $11.0. When I take the one I just put on, off I will check for any rough spots or gouges. I am not sure what you mean by contact point when installing. I am looking at the old seal now, but don’t see any markings. Thanks.
Driveway Al
By contact point, I mean the area where the seal and the crank interface and meet together. Sometimes a rough, braised line or ridge can form on the crankshaft where it comes in contact with the lip of the seal. Not sure on any particular brand. Maybe the parts-guy at NAPA where you bought the seal would have some suggestions. Good luck and keep us posted.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.