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hesitation/surging while accelurating

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  • #570178
    michael wolfemichael wolfe
    Participant

      hey guys i need some help with this one i just did a head gasket replacement on a 2007 suzuki reno manual transmission. i cleaned everything really well when i put it back together even scrubbed the head for like 1 hr and a 1/2. well i got it back together and started it up and it idols like a dream got new oil and water in it then took it for a drive right away i put it in first and took off it started surging then caught and jerked to life it dose that pretty much through 2nd and 3rd it seems in 4th it gets a lot better unless i let the rpm get around 2500-3000. now i am thinking tps i did take the throttle body off the intake and clean it up it was really bad dirty. may be i got some mineral sprites “thats what i used to clean most of the parts with” in to the tps? i put new spark plugs in but used old wires but they were good when i took them off so no prob there i think. i did nothing to the air box and hose to throttle body really no cleaning just set it to the side. it did have the seal at the throttle body ripped almost all the way off so i used some rtv and sealed it up and glued it back together so if anything i mad the maf reed better because i fixed the hole. the only other thing i am thinking is may be the timing is off just a tad but it idles so well that i don’t think so? also i checked and rechecked the marks they are verry close may not be dead on tho. oh and i replaced the good 2 prong bosh plugs for a set of single prong cheep auto light. please some one help with this. oh and cleaned off the injectors with carb cleaner just the tip tho.

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    • #570598
      sjrobinsonsjrobinson
      Participant

        Guess this isn’t an interference engine. I feel kinda silly we didn’t focus on the timing belt since I assumed that if it had been wrong your engine would not have survived past 10 seconds of running.

        I see the cams are actually lined up. You just need to turn it a tooth clockwise to get the pulley to line up with the timing mark.

        With the crankshaft pulley I can’t see where the timing belt lines up but I do see the pulley and block marks line up.

        The sequence that you put the belt on matters though. The tensioner should tighten the belt without moving the pulleys out of line so try checking to see what the sequence to put the belt on is. I think it should end after the cam but before the crankshaft on the opposite side of the tensioner. If that makes sense…

        So that the tensioner pulls on the cam and crank shaft in opposite directions to prevent it from going out of line.

        If I remember correctly.

        #570805
        EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
        Keymaster

          Apparently I don’t have a plug in to view those pics. Here’s information on how to upload pics to the site for future reference.

          http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/9-ETCG-Suggestion-Box/45665-how-to-attach-and-post-a-picture-to-the-forum

          Timing belts don’t often line up ‘perfect’. The reason for this is because they are designed to be ‘hunting’. Meaning they don’t want the same part of the belt making contact with the same gear during each rotation. Instead, they set it up so that the belt actually moves about a tooth with each rotation of the engine. The engine still stays in time but the belt ‘walks’ as it moves to prevent issues. That said, it’s literally a matter of degrees. It can be a couple of degrees off, but not a tooth. If it’s a tooth off, then the timing will be off.

          As pointed out above, the procedure for installation is important in order to keep things in time when you install the belt. If you don’t follow the correct procedure, then the belt may not end up in the correct position when you’re done.

          Keep us posted on any new developments.

        Viewing 2 replies - 16 through 17 (of 17 total)
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