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hey guys i need some help with this one i just did a head gasket replacement on a 2007 suzuki reno manual transmission. i cleaned everything really well when i put it back together even scrubbed the head for like 1 hr and a 1/2. well i got it back together and started it up and it idols like a dream got new oil and water in it then took it for a drive right away i put it in first and took off it started surging then caught and jerked to life it dose that pretty much through 2nd and 3rd it seems in 4th it gets a lot better unless i let the rpm get around 2500-3000. now i am thinking tps i did take the throttle body off the intake and clean it up it was really bad dirty. may be i got some mineral sprites “thats what i used to clean most of the parts with” in to the tps? i put new spark plugs in but used old wires but they were good when i took them off so no prob there i think. i did nothing to the air box and hose to throttle body really no cleaning just set it to the side. it did have the seal at the throttle body ripped almost all the way off so i used some rtv and sealed it up and glued it back together so if anything i mad the maf reed better because i fixed the hole. the only other thing i am thinking is may be the timing is off just a tad but it idles so well that i don’t think so? also i checked and rechecked the marks they are verry close may not be dead on tho. oh and i replaced the good 2 prong bosh plugs for a set of single prong cheep auto light. please some one help with this. oh and cleaned off the injectors with carb cleaner just the tip tho.
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Wow, my eyes hurt reading that.
Hook up a scanner and check out the readings. Maybe its the o2 sensor. Seeing as you had to do the head gasket for a reason. I’m guessing if it was coolant related then that damaged the sensor. This is if the car only has the issue once its warmed up.
If its the tps then you can tell by looking at your timing at %throttle at closed throttle.
I don’t know much about suzukis so I cant be too specific.
sorry should have said the gasket was rusted through and filling number 2 cylinder with water. sorry for the long description just wanted to say as much as i could about it. i think it dose it hot or cold not sure tho because i let it run for a bit before i drove it.
ok quick update i dont have a scan tool and dont really have any money so i did what i could and did a vacuum test with carb cleaner “thank you eric for that tip” no vacume leeks what so ever i could not get the idle to change at all.
That trick sometimes works. I find it can be rather hard to tell if it does. But the vacuum gauge does well to tell.
If the car does it when warm then its the o2 sensor. If you have established it doesn’t happen immediately upon driving from a cold start then you can disconnect the o2 sensor and drive it to see if it continues. The car will run in open loop.
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I’m thinking the EGR could be a strong possibility. Its not usually active at idle but will kick in and cause misfiring and stumbling if there is too much entering the intake. That will cause the engine to run lean.ya it dose it cold or hot dose not mater. i am not positive but i dont think it was doing it before i did the head. but just because is there a way to check the egr? also i did some checking and driving in it today and it actually seems a bit better today dose that make sense or did i change the way i was driving it a bit because it is still doing it just not as bad.
just a quick update i tried putting a peace of light paper against the tail pipe to try to confirm there was no miss at idol the paper did to suck back in at all but i did nodes the exhaust was very moist could this be on problem? that might sound like a stupid question but i just dont know new motors all that well and all the different sensors that could be getting bad readings from it.
Moisture is fine, that actually means your exhaust and engine are working well. As long as there’s no extensive smoke or vapor.
For the EGR you would have to remove the valve and clean it out with carb cleaner.
The car can also behave better over time too. I’m not sure how long you drove the car so I don’t know the extent of the issue. It could just be that what residual cleaners you used are being burned up by the engine and thats causing a surging. But it should go away soon if that.
The ECU would also be getting used to the engine’s behavior. But any significant abnormalities should soon result in a CEL. Then you’ll definitely have a better idea of what’s happening.
What happens if you rev the engine in park/neutral? Is there stumbling in the exhaust when its not under load?
i have only drove it about 3 blocks just testing it. not to far at all since i put it back together. if i just rev it at a stop it dose not stumble at all it only dose it under a load wile driving.
that is my big hope is that i get a cel soon to help me pen point it. it is crazy i dont have one i think. i know it is working tho because i unplugged a plug on the air box tube and drove it just to see and i had a light then. i was thinking it was the maf but i am not sure what it is because i cant find anything concrete that is has a maf i know it has a map tho on the intake manifold.
Its kinda rare but some engines have both MAF and MAP sensors. Most use one or the other. You can tell if it has a MAF sensor by looking at the intake pipe. MAF sensors are located on the intake pipe but have 3 or more wires coming from them. If you see a connection with two that is most likely your IAT sensor only.
I still am leaning towards your EGR valve.
Do you have a service manual for your car?
ya i have an alldata software for it. witch would make since because with the gasket leting water in to the #2 cylinder dousent that mean it would pump some water in to the egr? or dose it not really work like that.
Depending on the engine but I would imagine that in most cases anything that ended up in the cylinders will end up in the EGR. Afterall, it just takes a bit of the exhaust gas and recirculates it. The coolant could have made a sludge of carbon and coolant to clog the EGR. But typically too much EGR flow causes stumbling, not too little. Unless the engine sees high EGR valve lift but doesn’t know theres no flow. Its worth a shot to clean it out and make sure the valve still lifts.
If thats not it, at least you have a clean EGR valve.
OK let’s back up a little. Anytime you have an issue like you describe after doing major work, you need to go back over that work. Check every connection, every hose, and make sure it’s all hooked up correctly. In your case, I’d be taking a close look at the timing belt or chain (not sure which you have on that engine) and see if you’re in time. If you’re mechanical timing is off, it throws everything else off. So before you start throwing parts at this, check your work.
Good luck and keep us posted.
ok so this is what i found.
no mater how i tried last night i could not get it dead on now it is to the right of the marks on the cams but i little less then it was i think.
i did not have time to take pics of that before bed. is it normal to be just a tad off on the marks? it seems like the teeth just wont let me get is dead on.i am trying to upload pics it wont let me :stick: sorry for the blank posts i dont know how to delete them
this is the link to my google drive to see the pics of the marks i found last night https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByNQYJ8TRVjfODF5TE95YmNMa3c/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByNQYJ8TRVjfSm82WGp3NGdiV0E/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByNQYJ8TRVjfelpRc2hJbUNMNDA/edit?usp=sharing
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