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I have a fail safe thermostat, new water pump, new ect sensors, new radiator, and fresh coolant 50/50 mix. My compression is good on all four cylinders. No water in oil and no water in exhaust. I have filled the entire coolant system several times and every time I drive the car over 30 minutes, the temperature climbs to hot and drops to normal. Sometimes when it is hot, fan is not coming on and I have tested it for motor operation. Sometimes when it is hot, if I let off of accelator, temperature drops or if I accelerate slightly, the temperature drops to normal. If I kick v-tech in, temperature climbs faster to the H. Today, I refilled coolant and even though, I do not have a bleeder valve, I left the heater hose off that goes to the thermostat housing and only filled it up until coolant ran out of it. I started the car up and used a spill free funnel so it would fill up with coolant. After running a while at 2500 rpm, fan came on once and went off, gauge temp showed half way and I had a cooking thermometer in the funnel of coolant and it read up to 215 degrees and fan was not on at this point. However, the inside gauge showed only half way. So please help on this matter or give me some good ways of getting all air bubbles out of the system. FYI When I fill coolant, car is on ramps with the front raised up. Heater is on high and I fill the radiator until it will not hold anymore. I start the car and let the fans come on twice and check the coolant. I called a Honda dealer and talked to a service manager and he told me that is a nightmare to get the air bubbles out a bleederless system such as my motor (D16Y8). Any suggestions would be very helpful!!! Forgot to mention, heater is intermittently blowing hot to cold air. I have watched the bleeding coolant video but it had a bleeder. If you could, please tell me how to bleed system without bleeder.
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I use a lisle spill free funnel for most vehicles, http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-24610.aspx. Works great for fill since you just fill the funnel and let it suck itself in.
If that doesn’t work I also have an airlift filler, http://www.tooltopia.com/uview-550000.aspx. Works amazing on hard to bleed cars.
I have done a block test and as a matter of fact, I done three and on the third, radiator was steaming pretty good and I almost burnt my arms. Here’s the picture of my block test results!
[quote=”college man” post=49867]follow this procedure.
A bleeder valve is only there to make filling the system easier. You MUST follow the other parts of the procedure in the video to properly bleed the air out of the system. Ignore the part of the video about the bleeder valve and do everything else the same.
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