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I bought an ’03 Lincoln Navigator, I know zero about mechanical things. The first thing I thought I would do is change the spark plugs and oil. So I tried to do this finding that for me it was a extremely difficult task to remove the back plugs. Also one of the cylinders had a heli coil and when I took it out it removed the threads. I took it to a mechanic to see if they could help me but they wanted more money than I could afford two of them told me I needed a new engine. One was a pretty nice guy and told me about time certs, and head removal. I did all that and put the everything back together and it runs, I am so surprised! There are a few issues I need help with and every time I Get a new and different code. I just got 3 new ones P0743,P0755, and P1747. And one of my biggest problems is that I wasn’t able to put the header gasket on when assembled the heads, I thought I would be able to do it fom the bottom, now I cant get the stud out of the engine
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I bought an ’03 Lincoln Navigator, I know zero about mechanical things. The first thing I thought I would do is change the spark plugs and oil. So I tried to do this finding that for me it was a extremely difficult task to remove the back plugs. Also one of the cylinders had a heli coil and when I took it out it removed the threads. I took it to a mechanic to see if they could help me but they wanted more money than I could afford two of them told me I needed a new engine. One was a pretty nice guy and told me about time certs, and head removal. I did all that and put the everything back together and it runs, I am so surprised! There are a few issues I need help with and every time I Get a new and different code. I just got 3 new ones P0743,P0755, and P1747 to go with a reoccurring P0113. Also the ABS light is on and the emergency brake sensor. And one of my biggest problems is that I wasn’t able to put the header gasket on when assembled the heads, I thought I would be able to do it fom the bottom, now I cant get the studs out of the engine. Any suggestions from someone that has real knowledge of these issues would be so appreciated.
[quote=”learner” post=114185]Thank you for suggestion[/quote]
To get the stud out either double nut the stud or vise grips.
One problem can cause several codes, it does not necessarily mean all those systems have problems. But then ionce the root of the problem is fixed, all those codes vanish (or don’t come back if you erase the codes). It tends to daisy-chain sometimes. As you said you know little about mechanical stuff but I will give an example
If an engine is running super crappily because of say intake or head gasket failures, it will throw ignition codes (flashing check engine light) since it cannot do it’s job when the engine is running real bad. EVEN THOUGH the ignition isn’t the actual problem.
Without seeing the vehicle it is hard to say if it REALLY needs a new engine. I will honestly say it sounds like the truck was probably abused to crap. That is one vehicle with a LOT of power and used ones tend to attract abusive drivers (kind of like honda civics though those things are slow as evolution)
I know you are probably sweating this truck. It looks nice and Damn, it is a NAVIGATOR! PIMP mobile! You may want to see if this is something you really want to sink the money and work into. It is not a beginner-mobile for true novice mechanics.
Well all of those codes relate to your transmission. What all did you remove when you did this job? the cylinder head? just curious because that is a fairly big job which includes replacing head gaskets etc. did you take both heads off? Now the codes you mention are all related so you may want to check any nearby wires by the jobsite. I know most truck engines will have the wiring harness drop down to the transmission behind the cylinder heads and when removing those you may have snagged a wire or something. I once had a situation where I replaced the engine on a dodge durango and it would not start afterwards. It was due to a similar situation where I accidentally pulled a terminal wire from the transmission solenoid pack which just so happened to be a part of the neutral safety switch circuit. did you have these codes before you did this work? if so it is most likely a legitimate issue, sounds like a bad solenoid if you ask me. or a pressure sensor. Which can be a nightmare or an easy fix depending on the transmission. Does the truck drive ok? In regards to the exhaust manifold gaskets, why do you need to remove the stud? shouldn’t that be getting a nut on it? if im wrong, which is very possible, use the two nut method as collegeman said, it works great. Trust me when I say have faith in yourself. Remember, its just a dumb machine, humans created it so you will figure it out. Anyways keep us updated, good luck.
I removed one head; I had a pretty hard time getting the fuel rail back on ended up with a fuel leak but I was able to learn a lot from that, that I wouldn’t have otherwise. I struggled a bit with putting the intake on but by the third time I was so tired it seemed like it went smoother. I thought that it might have been easier to do this whole job with the engine out of the vehicle but I have never done that either and I am sure it comes with its own set of problems. After I got everything together I started it and it ran sluggishly, but to be honest I was stoked that it ran I was so worried about timing and I didn’t know what it would sound like if it was out of time or how long to run it stuff like that. I knew that with the exhaust manifold not sealed it would be loud but in another surprise it fit tight enough to be not too bad( the problem with the studs is that the frame won’t allow the manifold to come off and there is one stud I just can’t find away to get too, I called a muffler shop but when I told him it was a navigator he said he wanted no part of it). So the first time I ran it about 10 mins. the motor shook a little and seemed like it needed gas, I turned it off. The next day I went to crank it NOTHING, I learned how use a meter and checked all the fuses and listened to the relay click when I turned the key, finally I unhooked the battery for about an hour hooked it back up and it started I ran it for about 1 hr. the longer it ran the better it ran but I didn’t put the pulleys on tight enough so it screamed . , that’s about the time I found this website. Long story shorter I pulled codes P0113,P0353,P0358 checked the coil pack connections cleared codes started pulled codes P0113 let it run a few minutes and a light with 2 circles D with a / started blinking. I turned it off pulled codes P0113,P0743,P0755,P1747 which the book doesn’t even list…anyways I don’t think the engine is bad, but I wonder where to start, at the transmission and trace the wires to the next connection?
Thank you, there is on stud I can’t figure out how to get to, frustration had set in, so I will try the two nut system tommorow
Ok so you mentioned the timing, so I assume that this engine is OHV, When you put it back together did you take into account any timing marks or anything, because it sounds like it might be out of time. The way you describe it running sounds like it could be a tooth off. I don’t know how the engine is set up but can you easily see timing marks? I assume it is a timing chain an not a belt? If you put the engine at top dead center you should have timing marks line up, there are diagrams all over the internet that will help you determine if these marks are lined up properly. Or you could get a timing light if that is an option for you. That way you know if it was in time without even taking anything apart. In regards to the D light on the dash, that is signifying that there is a problem with the Overdrive, or some issue with the transmission.
P0113- Intake air temp circuit
p0743- torque converter clutch
p0755- shift selenoid
p1747- overdrive malfunction
a problem with the air intake sensor will cause it to run poorly as it wont calculate the correct air fuel mixture for the engine. And if it ran better the longer it ran it may be due to it relying on other sensors to calculate the air fuel ratio. SO I would look into the wiring on the air temp circuit. Also I would be sure that the engine and transmission is running 100% before you spend your time on the exhaust manifold.With several transmission related codes, first thing I would check is that the harness and plugs to the transmission are all correctly seated and not pinched off in some fashion. All it takes is a severed ground wire or loose plug to cause the transmission to trip codes. One code I can see being an actual fault. Several codes? Screams wiring fault first—internal screw ups second.
Just sayin’…
S-
That’s why I asked if he was having issues with the transmission prior to him taking the engine apart. If so, then yeah maybe it does have an internal issue, but if it arose after his “overhaul” then I am willing to bet money that its a loose connector or something. I really think he needs to double check his timing first though, because if the engine is toast then I don’t know if he is willing to dump money into it.
I think it was missing because of the coil pak connection, it runs really well now you can hear the manifold leak a bit. I am going to check on the the wiring. I am not set up to do this kind of thing really but it is beginning to seem like there is light at the end of the tunnel. I really appreciate you taking time to try and help. The book I have is Hayne’s, I would like to find a fuse diagram or maybe even a service manual but when I have tried I have spent a lot of time searching and finding things I wasn’t sure that were right. Do youknow where I could find these things. The transmission was fine before all of this, I probably gotthe wires to close to engine somewhere.
Thats great! glad to hear that it is running good. The codes will go away once you find your problem. Most likely just a snagged wire. Do you have a multimeter? if so it will really help with finding a bad wire or connection. There should be one large plug on the transmission either on the drivers or pass side. and maybe a couple speed sensors, I would go to that large connector first and work your way up the harness. make sure everything is tight, and make sure all of your grounds are clean and tight. Sounds like you almost got it. I doubt there is an issue in the fuse box, but it never hurts to check. this is where a multimeter is helpful. you can check all the fuses very quick. or even a test light, both are pretty cheap at places like harbor freight.
Ok, so I took the intake for two reasons, one when I pulled the head there was a wire with a molded piece of plastic 1in. x 1in.on the I.manifold one on each side of the engine. I thought it was a ground so I just grounded in another place. But since I had to remove the intake again I thought I would put it back where I found it. It ran for a couple of hours and I drove it around the block while it was missing, but like I said earlier I checked the coil packs and fixed that issue.When I went to check the codes again is when I pulled the transmission codes and then the overdrive light came on. All day I thought maybe having the coil harness exposed is causing arcing somewhere since I didn’t have this issue before. when I started looking for the the wireing to the transmission I guess I got tunnel vision and I just got it to where I can see the harness, do you think it connects on top of the transmission. The other reason is that I could not locate any wires connecting to transmission. So I made a video but was unable due to angles to get good visual so I am going to try to tell you what I have. There are a group that go to injectors on both sides, one that goes to the fuse box and PCM, on that goes to the component directly in front of the steering wheel, and one that goes down and back I assume this is the transmission but I will have to remove the intake manifold to be able to see or handle. So I thought I would check in to make sure I am on the right path?
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