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Hey i have a problem with my passenger fan not coming on after i was hit in the passenger side fender,i can turn it on if i ground it from the battery and also from the coolant fan switch,i have replaced the coolant fan switch,(which was burned and cracked when i pulled the connector off)the coolant sensor on the front of the intake and tried new relays,all the parts i have used have been bwd and i am ordering a ac delco fan switch because the bwd coolant fan switch does not match the orig. how do i diagnose this?and i am letting it get up to temp past the middle mark 220.any help would be greatly appreciated.
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if the fan works when you ground it.either find the the ground or
reground the fan somewhere.unless thats the control side. here is
a link for a wiring diagram.[quote=”college man” post=48660]if the fan works when you ground it.either find the the ground or
reground the fan somewhere.unless thats the control side. here is
a link for a wiring diagram.http://www.bbbind.com/%5B/quote%5D
+1 In order to properly diagnose any engine problem you need to first start with a wiring diagram to see how the circuit is suppose to work. If not, you’re working blind and just replacing parts.
Electrical diagnosis basics
Electrical diagnosis basics 2
I had a ase mechanic look at it he says its becuase my ac compressor is leaking and its low on r134 that it can not build up pressure to turn the fan on he powered the fan on with fuse on the high or low side of the ac hookup,and it turned on so what do you think eric?it is the orig compressor,and am i better off with a ac delco ac compressor vs aftermarket?
Ok i had my mechanic put a vacuum on the system replaced the ac compressor with a new ac delco from rockauto,new ac delco accumulator,orfice tube,and recharge with r134 and it did fine when it was cold out,and now that its hot out i turn on the ac its cold but the ac compressor sounds like a paint can its stuck to it, its super loud!what do you guys think?
Did he put in the proper amount of oil into the system? including an ounce of oil in the accumulator?
He also should have manually primed the compressor with the proper amount of PAG…
A/C systems can run a little while without proper lube, but will eventually die very quickly (Days to weeks)
Also, did he properly flush out the condenser??? If your prior compressor went bad, the system needs flushed with a special chemical… If not, little metal chips will be introduced back into the system and kill the new compressor.
Karl
I know he used 8 ounces of ester oil for the compressor because he said it would work best for a r12 to r134 conversion? and he replaced all the seals.and the orig compressor still worked but it was on its way out it was leaking oil from the front and flinging it on my hood insulation/liner.i asked him if we needed to flush the system and he said it would be fine after he vacuumed the system?i asked him about the problem and he said to bring it back so he can check it.i think the compressor has a warranty on it if you replace the orifice tube and accumulator along with the repair.
Putting vacuum to the system just lowers the boiling point of water to ambient air temperature to remove all moisture from the system… Moisture is an AC system’s worst enemy. Vacuum does not “suck anything out”
The reason for a flush of the condenser is the same reason why you need to replace the orifice tube and accumulator/dryer in order for a compressor to be warrantied… The whole system must be clean…
You can assume a deal of risk if you replace a bad compressor and do not flush out the condenser… If your previous compressor went bad, there could be bits of metal left in the system (left in the condenser) possibly some in the evaporator as well… If these are not flushed, you can keep replacing compressors because the metal will kill them….
Karl
Ok got all the parts ready to go all ac delco compressor,accumalator,orifice tube,new o rings again, and i was reading this article http://www.thirdgen.org/retrofitac and they were saying they used pag oil instead of ester oil. since i am going to be flushing everything this time which oil do you think would be best since everything is going to be new and flushed?and they mention adjusting the clutch cycling switch for the difference between r12 and r134.
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