head gasket question

[Bill]

I am replacing a head gasket on a 2004-Chevrolet-Blazer 4.3 v6 and I am confused if the gasket goes on dry of if I have to coat it with sealant! The original gasket is made of metal. Thanks

Topic

[Stephen Bowen]

Unless instructed by the paperwork included with the replacement head gasket?

DRY!! The original one made from metal is due to the parts being brand new when the engine was built. Replacement headgaskets will often be “Designed” in such a fashion to prevent leaks due to extremely minor imperfections in the block/head area.

Strongly urge use of a Haynes or Chilton’s Manual made for that exact Chevy. It will list torque specs and correct methods to ensure a quality install job. Also check to see if that engine uses TTY head bolts. Torque To Yield head bolts are ONE TIME USE only. As they stretch slightly when installed–Most likely the last spec to tighten will require the use of a “Angle Gauge”.

Good Luck with it!!

S-

[Dwayne]

I second teadybear315 comment….I can only remember using rtv sealant when doing a intake or oil pan gasket, and in on specific locations per manual

[none]

The head bolts are definitely TTY bolts. Pay extra attention to your specs & sequence and work slowly. I can’t remember precisely, but most of the longer bolts are final torqued to 75ft lbs while the lowers are torqued to 55 ft lbs and then they all get turned so many degrees to stretch the bolts to yield. It’s really easy to get so far into the sequence and then forget you’ve got to back off at those shorter bolts. The rear lower bolt is an obnoxious pain to torque to the angle spec because the brake booster sits just close enough to the head back there to be obtrusive. At least it was for the angle gauge I was using.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Never ever no matter what forever use RTV in that way unless instructed by the manual. I’ve had more issues with people using RTV in that manner than any other. If you use quality gaskets and torque everything to spec that should be all that’s needed. As I often say, let the gasket do the work. Good luck.

[Bill]

Thanks guys I do plan on using new head bolts the kit is under $12 bucks. The hanes manual calls for only 22lbs then another 55,65 and 75 degrees

[Stephen Bowen]

Sounds like a plan! Don’t forget to pick up the angle gauge.

S-

[Bob]

[quote=”no_common_sense” post=111146]The head bolts are definitely TTY bolts. Pay extra attention to your specs & sequence and work slowly. I can’t remember precisely, but most of the longer bolts are final torqued to 75ft lbs while the lowers are torqued to 55 ft lbs and then they all get turned so many degrees to stretch the bolts to yield. It’s really easy to get so far into the sequence and then forget you’ve got to back off at those shorter bolts. The rear lower bolt is an obnoxious pain to torque to the angle spec because the brake booster sits just close enough to the head back there to be obtrusive. At least it was for the angle gauge I was using.[/quote]
I have a bottle of white nail polish in my tool box… I mark the “short ones” as a reminder. I also use it to highlight timing marks on cam/crank sprockets. I had some explaining to do the first time my wife saw it in my tool box.

[EricTheCarGuy]

That sounds like a good plan. Good luck.

[Author]

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