“Head” bolt stuck into the head!!!

[outdoorsman310]

why were you torquing the head bolts? the way i usually get bolts out is with a dremel and a flathead but i think you have to take the head off and i would worry about getting grit in the engine! i am no expert on this.

Topic

[college man]

can you just try a flat blade screw driver the same size
as the broken bolt. see if it will catch on the break and
start to turn. I would be cautious about striking it.
are there any threads exposed or is it broken flush?
if there are some threads to grab this tool in the link
might work to grab and turn the bolt out. you should be
able to get this at an auto store

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/54399 … 1546_.html

[AccordinGB]

You have broken one of the bolts for the exhaust camshaft retainers. There are four retainers on each camshaft.

Normally these bolts have to be torqued correctly so the camshaft is held straight but still gets oil between it and the retainer. Since one bolt is broken the torque is off so we will not worry about that.

Remove the other bolt that holds the camshaft retainer. Remove the retainer from the camshaft – it may need a bit of prying under both ends to get it up.

Now you do not have the 3 inch tunnel to look down, and you should see the top of the broken bolt flush with the head. This will allow you to use your reverse drill, etc.

[Fader]

Well said AccordinGB. After I went back and really looked at the first photo again I realized how simple it is to get to the rest of the bolt after I had read your comment. I looked to fast and thought it was going to be hectic to get to but then I was like “AH!” Excellent point. I would go with AccordinGB’s post.

This is why I love coming to this Forum for all my repair help!

[maximus20895]

I might I might try that. I just don’t have enough room to hit it with a hammer right now. I will see what I can do. There is a little raised part of the bolt and I tried that and it catches it sometimes, but then it let’s go unfortunately.

[maximus20895]

Quoted From AccordinGB:

You have broken one of the bolts for the exhaust camshaft retainers. There are four retainers on each camshaft.

Normally these bolts have to be torqued correctly so the camshaft is held straight but still gets oil between it and the retainer. Since one bolt is broken the torque is off so we will not worry about that.

Remove the other bolt that holds the camshaft retainer. Remove the retainer from the camshaft – it may need a bit of prying under both ends to get it up.

Now you do not have the 3 inch tunnel to look down, and you should see the top of the broken bolt flush with the head. This will allow you to use your reverse drill, etc.

This is almost perfect. That’s why I said “head” bolt. I didn’t think it was a head bolt since the manual says 16 ft lbs which is nothing, especially for a head bolt.

Now, one to the camshaft retainer. Is it okay for me to just take of the bolts that hold that one on or do I have to remove all of them. I don’t know if just removing one would warp anything or not. The retainer is also about an inch or so long so I would have an extra inch to get in there.

I’m starting to have hope again. Thanks everyone for your replies. There is a faint light at the end of the tunnel.

[maximus20895]

Quoted From college man:

can you just try a flat blade screw driver the same size
as the broken bolt. see if it will catch on the break and
start to turn. I would be cautious about striking it.
are there any threads exposed or is it broken flush?
if there are some threads to grab this tool in the link
might work to grab and turn the bolt out. you should be
able to get this at an auto store

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/54399 … 1546_.html

Yea, I thought of that and I have that tool (very handy btw), but the claws being closed are bigger than 8mm which is the size of the hole.

Thanks for your help!

[maximus20895]

Sorry for the replies back to back.

Just to help show what I’m dealing with, here is a diagram of the head:

And another one from the manual:

So looking at this picture, going outside in the garage actually examining closer as well as the help of ETCGers I have come up with this:

The Camshaft retainer is 1 inch deep, if I take that off I will now go from a 3 inch tunnel down to a 2 inch tunnel. This may work. However, if it does not work and it’s still too deep I could also take out the rocker assembly which is roughly 2 inches deep. If this is taken off, I will then have maybe 1/4 of the bolt sticking up or it might to just flush to the head.

Anyways, this is what I have come up with. I would think it would be MUCH easier dealing with the bolt if the camshaft retainer was off and even more so if the rocker arm assembly came off if worse comes to worse. I would also think that I would be able to get it out without removing the head.

Now, I’m anxious and very much relieved. Once again, thank you all for your help. I will certainly keep everyone updated!

Oh, I forgot, someone asked where I live. I live in Knoxville, TN!

Thanks again!

[maximus20895]

Thanks! I couldn’t get the cam retainer off, but i’m really hesitant about messing anything up after I over torqued the bolt. So I will try again later. I bought a chisel and tried to chisel into one of the broken bolts just to see how it would react and it’s not doing much at all. So I think I’m going to try to remove the cam retainer and possibly get a left handed drill bit in there. We will see.

As of right now, I’m waiting to see what my aunt says to do after she talks to her husband.

[R-vin]

if your back is against the wall, try something un-orthodox…..does any one think that using an arc welding rod down inside of the deep aluminium hole to weld onto the broken stud to try and turn it out….providing that the piece of the stud is not tight on its threads…some welding skill will be required and if available, car batteries have been used for stick welding with the jumper leads….something to think about….but you risk wrecking the head if you weld too much….may be left for a professional….

[John B Kobberstad]

Quoted From R-vin:

if your back is against the wall, try something un-orthodox…..does any one think that using an arc welding rod down inside of the deep aluminium hole to weld onto the broken stud to try and turn it out….providing that the piece of the stud is not tight on its threads…some welding skill will be required and if available, car batteries have been used for stick welding with the jumper leads….something to think about….but you risk wrecking the head if you weld too much….may be left for a professional….

It’s a thought but I would try and put a smaller diameter collar inside the bolt hole and protect the insideof the hole. If it was longer than the hole could weld to broken bolt and turn it out with the collar. Welding would need a steady steady hand though. collar should be tight, check with old bolt.

[619DioFan]

Quoted From R-vin:

if your back is against the wall, try something un-orthodox…..does any one think that using an arc welding rod down inside of the deep aluminium hole to weld onto the broken stud to try and turn it out….providing that the piece of the stud is not tight on its threads…some welding skill will be required and if available, car batteries have been used for stick welding with the jumper leads….something to think about….but you risk wrecking the head if you weld too much….may be left for a professional….

Being an aluminum head I would avoid going near it with an arc welder.

[619DioFan]

If you have the upper cam retainer bolts out you may need to tap on the sides of the retainer with a brass or plastic hammer to loosen it ( you can use a small wood block to protect it ) don’t wail on it as it is aluminum. hear is something you may want to try. once you have the retainer off and are closer to the broken piece take a spare bolt that will fit into the hole leaving enough exposed to get a wrench on it. mix up some JB WELD and apply a small dab to the end of the spare bolt ( just a small amount ) insert the spare bolt into the hole and let the JB WELD attach it to the top of the broken bolt. be careful to use a small amount as you don’t want the epoxy to attach to the inside of the hole. let it set up( make sure to keep the bolt straight will the epoxy cures. then you should be able to turn the bolt out with a wrench.

FYI – to remove the lower half of the retainer you will need to remove the entire cam assembly ( which is rather intensive )

[maximus20895]

Hmm, I was thinking of using JB Weld, but I’ve never used it before. Is it pretty strong? I will go look at youtube to see. That’s quite a creative ideas that you have! I would be scared to get JB weld on the walls of the rocker assembly, but definately something to think about and ponder.

I love all these idea you guys come up with. Very informative and quit entertaining as well. It really helps out alot!

[maximus20895]

Well, I can’t fit even a 1/4 ratchet socket down there since the socket flares out. I was thinking though of getting a screwdriver and putting some JB Weld on it and letting it rest there for a while? Any inputs on this?

[619DioFan]

Let me see if I can explain my idea a little better. first- get yourself a bolt that will fit down the hole that the broken bolt came out of. use a bolt that is a little smaller in diameter than the one that broke. make sure the bolt sticks up above the top of the cam retainer by an inch or two. now- put a small dab of JB WELD on the end of this bolt and insert it into the hole so that it comes into contact with the top of the broken bolt. make sure the bolt you insert is kept as straight as possible while the epoxy cures. once the epoxy has fully cured you can use a wrench or small ratchet/socket on top of the bolt you epoxyed to the broken piece and back it out ( basically you extending the broken bolt by epoxing a new bolt to it ) JB WELD is a very strong product. just make sure you let it cure fully. as long as you use just a dab you should be able to keep it from adhering to the sides of the retainer bolt hole.

[Author]

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