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I believe the head must be removed. if you do drill you can’t
see what your drilling into. you need to be centered.It’s a 2007 Civic Si 2.0L.
He quoted me 13 hours of labor which is $1600.
He called around and found a left hand drill bit that long enough to go into the hole so I’m hoping that will work since I don’t have $1600..not even close.
I’m extremely depressed and in tears with this matter. I’m not even 25 and I barely work so I don’t make much at all. I might have made $1600 in the last 5 months..
My Aunt is talking to her husband about it since he knows some people and he works on cars at his place. I don’t know what else I’m going to do.
I also agree with everyone on you taking the head off. Your going in “blind” that far down to try and drill.. and drill center of the broken bolt at that. Life will be much easier with the head off. The set I use for these jobs is: K-D Screw Extractor Kit. (K-D Tools, Danaher Tool Group). Works well.Curious: why were you tourqing the bolts?
Chart size if you are able to buy just one bit is:
Screw/bolt size…….Drill Size
9/16 to 3/4″………….17/16
7/16 to 9/16…………1/4″
5/16 to 7/16…………5/32″
No.12 to 5/16………7/64″Hope everything goes well. On the plus side from what I see in the pictures you don’t have any annoying rust bolts to deal with since it looks very new!! Keep us posted.
Quoted From maximus20895:
Too bad that requires me to purchase a right angle drill which I don’t have the money for.
I was hoping for some sort of easy out that I don’t have to use a drill. Is there any such thing? Maybe one that I would use a ratchet or something?
I think you can get a right angle chuck that will convert your drill to a right angle one for less than $20 at HF. I think mine cost about $10 back when I bought it. You’ll need a magnet to get the drilling metal out before you remove the bolt end otherwise it will fall into the threads and wreak havoc when you put another bolt into the threaded hole if all the waste is not removed from the threaded area.
Is it possible that it broke off so that a flathead screwdriver could have something wedged to one side at its tip and turn the bolt out. I can’t see how the bolt broke off to see if there is a raised part on the broken piece to be able to try this.
Where do you live?
Here is something to try, shoot the hole with PB blaster and leave it work on the bolt for several hours. The take a long chisel and pound it with a hammer into the bolt to create a flat slot. Then use screw driver into the flat slot and turn it out like flat head screw.
Quoted From skim3544:
Here is something to try, shoot the hole with PB blaster and leave it work on the bolt for several hours. The take a long chisel and pound it with a hammer into the bolt to create a flat slot. Then use screw driver into the flat slot and turn it out like flat head screw.
I don’t think the bolt is frozen in the hole as the old one was just removed but a dab of oil may help lube the threads for removal not much would be needed just a drop or two.
+1 on the chisel. it seems like its not too tight as 16 ft lbs is not much but the bolt did break so it may be over torqued.
I think the long and short of it is you are still eventually going to get around to having to pull the head. If the bolt has any torque on it, and you don’t get any applied to the bore itself, I’d be pretty amazed if you were able to turn the bolt out without the jb weld breaking. Since you have a limited amount of work room, I think you are going to find that you have no other option than to remove the head. It would probably take less time than you think if you have the right tools, and the time you are spending trying the jb weld thing is time you could be spending getting to the root of the problem. Also, I imagine that’s a hardened bolt, so a chisel won’t make a dent in it.
Thanks! I couldn’t get the cam retainer off, but i’m really hesitant about messing anything up after I over torqued the bolt. So I will try again later. I bought a chisel and tried to chisel into one of the broken bolts just to see how it would react and it’s not doing much at all. So I think I’m going to try to remove the cam retainer and possibly get a left handed drill bit in there. We will see.
As of right now, I’m waiting to see what my aunt says to do after she talks to her husband.
if your back is against the wall, try something un-orthodox…..does any one think that using an arc welding rod down inside of the deep aluminium hole to weld onto the broken stud to try and turn it out….providing that the piece of the stud is not tight on its threads…some welding skill will be required and if available, car batteries have been used for stick welding with the jumper leads….something to think about….but you risk wrecking the head if you weld too much….may be left for a professional….
Quoted From R-vin:
if your back is against the wall, try something un-orthodox…..does any one think that using an arc welding rod down inside of the deep aluminium hole to weld onto the broken stud to try and turn it out….providing that the piece of the stud is not tight on its threads…some welding skill will be required and if available, car batteries have been used for stick welding with the jumper leads….something to think about….but you risk wrecking the head if you weld too much….may be left for a professional….
It’s a thought but I would try and put a smaller diameter collar inside the bolt hole and protect the insideof the hole. If it was longer than the hole could weld to broken bolt and turn it out with the collar. Welding would need a steady steady hand though. collar should be tight, check with old bolt.
Quoted From R-vin:
if your back is against the wall, try something un-orthodox…..does any one think that using an arc welding rod down inside of the deep aluminium hole to weld onto the broken stud to try and turn it out….providing that the piece of the stud is not tight on its threads…some welding skill will be required and if available, car batteries have been used for stick welding with the jumper leads….something to think about….but you risk wrecking the head if you weld too much….may be left for a professional….
Being an aluminum head I would avoid going near it with an arc welder.
If you have the upper cam retainer bolts out you may need to tap on the sides of the retainer with a brass or plastic hammer to loosen it ( you can use a small wood block to protect it ) don’t wail on it as it is aluminum. hear is something you may want to try. once you have the retainer off and are closer to the broken piece take a spare bolt that will fit into the hole leaving enough exposed to get a wrench on it. mix up some JB WELD and apply a small dab to the end of the spare bolt ( just a small amount ) insert the spare bolt into the hole and let the JB WELD attach it to the top of the broken bolt. be careful to use a small amount as you don’t want the epoxy to attach to the inside of the hole. let it set up( make sure to keep the bolt straight will the epoxy cures. then you should be able to turn the bolt out with a wrench.
FYI – to remove the lower half of the retainer you will need to remove the entire cam assembly ( which is rather intensive )
Hmm, I was thinking of using JB Weld, but I’ve never used it before. Is it pretty strong? I will go look at youtube to see. That’s quite a creative ideas that you have! I would be scared to get JB weld on the walls of the rocker assembly, but definately something to think about and ponder.
I love all these idea you guys come up with. Very informative and quit entertaining as well. It really helps out alot!
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