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Hi All just wanna hear your thoughts on this topic. mt car is a manual or standard as it is sometimes called and as part of driving it sometimes you acedently stall the car. not often but it happens. anyway when it stalls it can be a real pain in the butt to start. i think i have the issue figured to the computer adding more fuel when it detects a stall. this dosent stop the stall but because of the added fuel i end up with a flooded motor that takes a good 10 seconds of cranking to clear and start the motor. i can start it faster by giving it some gas to get more air into the engine. i am not concerned about this i am just curious to hear some other peoples opinions. thanks all
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I have to cars a routinely drive. One has more torque than the other so I can count at least one embarrassing traffic signal stall when I switch to the lower torque vehicle. It restarts immediately. So, while not sure what is wrong with your vehicle I think something is.
If the vehicle has a fuel pressure solenoid you might try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hose to it and see what that does.
i had forgotten to mention that the car is 22 years old so only the fuel injection is computer controlled. maby your cars are newer so they might have a better ecu that detects the stall situation and adjusts accordingly. anyway thanks for your reply 🙂
I don’t think it’s a question of the computer detecting a stall. It does this automatically as it has sensors to monitor both the cam and crank rotation. In short, your computer knows when you stall the engine and shuts off the fuel. However, depending on how far you were into the gas you could be flooding the engine as you suggest. If you’re high up in the revs, even if the computer shuts off the fuel there may still be excessive fuel in the intake. Also, depending on how violent the stall is, the computer might suspect you’ve been in a collision and turned the fuel off to avoid a fire. On something like a BMW this is a real possibility.
My conclusion is that if you don’t have issues any other time outside of when you stall the vehicle, it’s probably normal and you’ll have to practice your clutch points a little more. I’m not posting this video to insult you, just to give some tips that you might find useful.
Keep us posted.
Few versions of that engine over the years, What fuel management system is it running? Motronic, CIS, L Tronic? Is it the turbo version?
its not turbo the Bosch motronic fuel control system. the m40 motor is quite a weak motor so it can be easily stalled under the right circumstances.
Older CIS systems would flood time to time if the sensor plate on the fuel distributer was really gummed up and not moving freely. That’s why I asked.
Motronic is fairly simple compared to some of the new systems. It be virtually impossibly for it to flood though. Youd have to crank and crank and crank for a long while for it to flood or even smell gas out the tail pipe. The ECM uses the cam sensor / crank position sensor not only for ignition timing but for the injectors. And to add to that the injectors are synchronised not batch fire like Motronics older brothers Digifant2 and L-tronic.
4 things to try first.
1- pour a concentrated mix of injector cleaner into the tank or run a injector cleaner apparatus on the fuel rail. Bosch is picky and sensitive. On that engine its not a bad idea to run cleaner every other oil change.
2- check the ignition timing. A lot of the time in the moments close to a stall the car reads the knock sensor input, basicly as your stalling, and try to retard the timing and enrich the mixture. Just like if it was preventing knock. If the timing is off enough it can stall it, and also cause a serious lack of bottom end torque that makes stalling easier.
3- check the resistance on the sweep of the throttle position sensor to see its to spec. If its out of adjustment or failing it will cause lack of power too.
4- I would also test the fuel pressure regulator on the rail for vacuum holding pressure. Its best to use the proper tool for that. With age they can act differently hot vs cold. If it wont hold pressure its shot, if you smell gas from inside it its also shot. This will cause serious lack of power and if it wont pressurize the rail properly it wont fire.
Basicly you want to check all the big tune up items. Motronic like I said is fairly bomb proof but still victim to normal old car stuff, and twice as sensitive about it.
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