GSR Clutch replacement

[Josie]

Hi Everyone;

The time has come to put a new clutch in the GSR. She has 210,000km and when it heats up, you feel the slipping start. It’s not every shift but more than once is too much for me. (note its hydraulic so there is really no adjusting) After watching several videos already, and feeling braver every time I open my hood, I’m going to give it whirl myself. 😀 I’m excited and been planning this for a few months.

Roughly, from what I have seen. the process requires to drop the transmission out of the car. That requires both wheels and axles to move out of the way and also the exhaust manifold. (thank god there is no rust on this baby. She is mint!) Up top is the air intake (and some other stuff??) to remove I guess so you can get at all the bolts. I know that list is simplified, and I wanted to be better prepared. So I just purchased Eric’s video on this type of replacement which I plan to scour for the next month before I begin. So as I prep, I’d love some advice on any the following if you can lend any experience:

1) Will I need air tools?
2) Will I need an expensive torque wrench?
3) Should I buy a flywheel as well and do both? (I assume I have the original flywheel still in the car) Basically since I am already there, why not do it all? Is it easier if I do it this way?
4) I am not a racer and honestly don’t what fancy aftermarket mod parts. There is enough mod on her already LOL. I read that Exedy is the “OEM equivalent ” of Honda. Is this correct? Would this be a quality kit for Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, release bearing, Or is this a “you’re better to buy it from the dealer type of Honda part” as well (totally going to use Honda transmission oil at the very least)
5) Would 3 or 4 days time frame be correct for a novice? Anything (besides Erics video) Anythign I should buy in advance and return if I don’t need?
6) Also I hear that slave cylinders are cheap and worth replacing at the same time? Do you agree? I got to bleed the system anyway.
7) Anything else I am missing?

Dealer quoted me 8 hours minimum and parts and labor would run near $2000 (CAD) If I can safely learn how to do this, take my time and do it right, the feeling would be wroth the extra time it would take me. I have the pickup as my DD while I work which will certainly make me feel more comfortable having the ‘Teg out of commission for a few days.

Thanks again everyone Really appreciate your feedback 🙂

Cheers!

GSR

Topic

[college man]

see if this offers any help?

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/vitamin_d/266-how-install-clutch-g3-integra.html

[Josie]

Thanks as always Collegeman:)

I watched Eric’s video start to finish now (once anyway) and REALLY liked his in depth descriptions. In Eric’s video he didn’t drop the Exhaust, in your link for a Gen 3 they do. I have to wonder was it 100% necessary? Was really that much in the way? The pic just looks like it was done to make it a bit easier. See this pic in particular.

I think that I can drop my pipe if need be for my car (which is also gen 3), but its not an easy deal I doubt and I only want to do it if its necessary.

Attachments:

• clutch-046.jpg

[zero]

[quote=”college man” post=159581]see if this offers any help?

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/vitamin_d/266-how-install-clutch-g3-integra.html%5B/quote%5D

Wow, that is a really detailed guide. If only service manuals were half of that.

It looks like you have to remove the exhaust sections so the engine tilts down to an angle that allows for the trans to be removed. Effectively ‘cheating’ it out. The good news is the bolts you pictured are ridiculously clean and will probably come loose with a hefty dose of penetrating fluid.

The guide college man linked to shows the torques specs and you will need a 3/8 torque wrench. Most 1/2 models don’t go down that low. Canadian tire has them on sale every second week for like $50, they’re actually half decent, though the ‘Maximum’ branded ones are nicer and go on sale for the same price.

Do you need to go to the dealer for the part? Not really. There are plenty of quality aftermarket alternatives. It would be worth checking their prices, some parts aren’t always more expensive at the dealer. Rock Auto ships to Canada and lists their prices in $CAD and their shipping includes customs fees. I worked at a fairly large shop and a co-worker ordered a clutch that we couldn’t even source for the price he paid.

I’m falling asleep, that’s all I got in me for now.

[Fernando cunha]

hi my advice to you is watch these videos.

gearbox are very heavy good luck
and thanks for videos eric

[Sam Roodman]

1. Air tools are beneficial, but not necessary if you have a good long breaker bar to remove the axle nuts.
2. Expensive no, but a torque wrench yes, you will need to make sure things like the flywheel and clutch cover are appropiately torqued to spec.
3. You will either need the existing flywheel machined or purchase new. When I did my civic I had it simply machined, however the cost was just below the price of a new one, so YMMV. Some folks don’t do anything with the flywheel, so make the choice at your discresion.
4. Exedy is fine. OEM is fine, it all depends on your pocket book. Most clutch kits do not include flywheel. Just a bearing, alignment tool, plate and cover
5. 3 or 4 days should be fine to get things done if you need to run for parts and the what not in the event something goes wrong.
6. Does the slave need replacing? If its not faulty, do you need to add more things to trouble shoot?

[Author]

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