GREASE – No, not ONJ & Travolta -Primer Anyone?

[Gene]

OK, so I’d like a primer on grease. No, not the musical, but the slimy stuff.

Bought some gusher style TREs and lower ball joints. Yeah, I know they come pre-loaded with grease, but the “suggestion” was to top them off at each oil change. So now what kind of grease to I buy?

I have some black gear grease I used on the tiller gears. I have a tube of silicon grease left over from the brakes. Have seen lithium grease. Have some never seize. Wonder if marine grease might be a good idea since it will be used in a place that gets lots of water.

So what grease do I use here? Is all grease created equal? What about on CV joints- what kind of grease there?

Who can send in down the path of enlightenment toward understanding grease!

Thanks in advance. This site rocks!

Topic

[Richard Kirshy]

Hope this answers your questions:
Non-synthetic greases are all about 90 percent mineral oil, but it is there where the similarity between types disappears. The various additives used to thicken the oils and make them adhere to bearings, bushings, axles and most any other moving part are why you find quite a few different alternatives when you walk to the shelf at your local auto parts store. These additional additives can enhance the lubrication properties of the mineral oil, and some additives work better in some environments than others. Just as you wouldn’t use wheel-bearing grease to lubricate a meat slicer, the proper application of different greases is also important to maintaining your car.

Greases are rated by the National Lubricating Greases Institute, or NLGI. Institute ratings range from NLGI-000 through NLGI-6; however, NLGI-2 is the most likely specification you will find on automotive grease. You will also notice specifications in your owner’s/repair manual for grease types; these are usually two-letter designations that specify what type of grease you should be using. Type LB is an industry standard for chassis grease used on tie-rod ends, ball joints, u-joints and control-arm shafts. This type of grease is not recommended for wheel bearings; acceptable greases for axle and wheel bearings carry a type GC designation. However, you can use greases rated GC-LB for both types of lubrication. Within wheel-bearing greases, some manufacturers have their own specifications. Ford recommends one type of grease specifically for disc-brake-equipped cars, while GM recommends one specifically for their disc brakes. Chrysler uses the same grease recommended for GM and Ford drum brakes. To find the correct lubricant for the Ford specification, look for M1C75B, lithium-based extreme-pressure grease rated to 275 degrees. GM disc brake bearings call for GM #1051195 or #1051344, made of a different lithium complex and rated to 400 degrees. The Chrysler specification is MS-3701, which is also rated for 275 degrees but contains more water-resistant additives than the Ford grease.

Type LM greases are used for lubricating door hinges or trunk latches, and can be graphite- or white lithium-based. While available in 14-ounce tubes for grease guns, they are more practically available in squeeze tubes or one-pound tubs. Type CV greases are designed for constant velocity joints used in front- or all-wheel-drive vehicles. CV-type greases contain molybdenum disulfide to better lubricate and protect joints under constant suspension load. Synthetic greases are used on disc and drum brake components to protect them from water and brake dust. Rated to withstand 600 degrees, synthetic grease is often used on brake shoe backing plates, caliper slide pins and wheel cylinder pins to prevent binding and rust.

Silicone-dielectric grease is used to protect electrical connections and prevent moisture from shorting out components. Usually clear or white in color, it is often found in lightbulb sockets and electrical harness connectors on many underhood and under-car components.

Another lubricant we should mention is anti-seize. When shopping for an anti-seize, you will find both copper-based and nickel-based compounds; these are not always interchangeable. Copper should not be used on stainless, titanium or nickel alloys, in temperatures above 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit, or where copper contamination is a concern. Nickel-based anti-seize is effective in all applications and at temperatures up to 2,400 degrees.

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