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I got a 2004 Nissan Sentra and a p0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor) popped up on it after the car stalled out sitting in a parked position for 2 mins. The car also stalled out again 20 mins later while I was driving. When the car stalled out in park I had to wait 3 mins because it was just cranking over, when it stalled while driving it started 30 secs later with 1st turn of the key. This car has been having start up issues after the car been driven and sat for 40 mins but when the key is cycled 3 times it starts up fine. I also was going to eventually make a post of this, the car been making clicking or rattling noise at times, off and on mainly when the car been warmed up and at idle more noticeably heard , hear the noise better from inside the car, forgot what side of the engine where the noise is coming from. Also I did a search in the past about recalls on this car and there was a recall on the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR on the 2.5L engines, the car I have is a 1.8L. Stated on this link 3rd one down. http://www.autoblog.com/buy/2004-Nissan-Sentra/recalls/ . Does it sound like the Crankshaft Position Sensor needs to get replaced?
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You need to check the leads to the sensor with a multimeter. If the input power looks right, but the output is wrong then it’s the sensor. If the input current is wrong then you’ll have to hunt further.
For the rattle we will need to do some troubleshooting.
Is the car an automatic or manual?
How many miles are on the car?
Does it make the noise when you are driving, is it more pronounced when you are accelerating, sitting still in drive, sitting still in park/neutral, or all the time?See if this section of the FSM helps:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/2004_Sentra/ec.pdf
P0355 diagnostics start on page 252..
How do I check the leads for a Crankshaft Position Sensor, is it the connection that snaps on to the sensor I only need to check, is there a video on how to do this?
The rattling or clicking sound, it nothing obvious but I have been hearing it for couple months now. The car is automatic about 70,000 miles. The noise is usually heard on and off when it’s been warm and in a stopping position.The noise may be just a heat shield coming loose. I would guess it’s the shield ontop of the Catylitic converter if it is more audible inside.
When you check the Crank Sensor you start by checking at the plug. If the in voltage is good then you know that wiring is good up to the sensor. If the out voltage is bad then the sensor is bad.
If the in and out voltage is good then your sensor is good and you’ll need to follow the out voltage lines and find the fault.Hello 🙂
Pin 1 Black wire is ground ( low signal)
Pin 2 Yellow wire 5V Reference signal . You should have around 5V unpiugged..
Pin 3 Red/Green is 12v feedWell I’m assuming you don’t have expensive testing equipment for stuff like this. I think it would be a safe gamble to replace the sensor. After you replace it you’ll have to relearn the system. Here is a video on how to do that with out a scan tool:
I forgot to mention in this post that the car came up with 2 P0335 codes, I don’t know if one was a solid code and other was a pending because I got a cheap Autel scanner. Just looking to see if I have 2 of the same codes could mean 2 separate problems?
So i was about to change the crank sensor out but couldn’t, I am able to spin it but it won’t budge outward, it’s in a tough spot under the car. Is there a certain way or tool to pull it out? So since I couldn’t pull it out I put the screw back, reconnected it, erased the codes and going to see if the light comes back on.
I did have a engine light come on another car in the past, some type of cam sensor or something, couldn’t take it out also, so all I did was spray some electric clean spray in the connect and the engine light never came back on afterwards, I’ll probably spray some electric clean spray in this old crank sensor connection also.So I was able to take the sensor out but it was insanely tight coming out, had to pry with a screwdriver like crazy, this sensor is not like what you see people on youtube take out by hand or put in. I was about to give up at one point. But when I was having such a hard time taking the old sensor out, I was thinking, am I going to be able to put the new sensor in. And the answer is no. It is so tight I can’t even start it to go in. I slicked the O ring with oil and used the bolt to help it go in but it just goes crooked. It just insanely tight.
Looking to see what the next best thing. Should I clean the hole where the sensor goes into and slick it with oil? Try it with the old O ring? Or I might have to buy a thinner O ring? Last option would be shaving the O ring down? Because there almost no way it’s going in without some kind of modification What’s a good way to do this?They are usually pretty tight. Clean any rust/corrosion/debri out of the hole, slick it up, and wiggle it in there. Once you get the “o” ring started in there it gets easier. If it goes crooked it won’t go in at all.
Don’t try to modify the “o”ring or use the old one. The old one will probably be just as tight. Doing either of these will probably result in a leak.
Good luck.So I ended up getting a new O- ring for the sensor. I spoke to Nissan about the O-ring size and the parts guy matched up a separate O-ring to the O-ring on there sensor and he told me the thickness was 2.5mm. They only make a 16mm by 2.5mm and a 19mm which was to loose on the sensor but the 16mm O-ring did fit on the sensor a little snug, probably needed a 17 or 18mm . So the sensor was able to go in with the new O-ring, thought it should go in a little tighter than it did, but thought it had good enough tension going in for it to not be a problem. So it’s been 2 weeks since I put the sensor in, drove it for a bit, I went underneath twice to check for leaks and it’s been no problem..
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