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Hi. Yesterday I snagged an interesting 12 inch sub enclosure with a torn sub in it for about 14 dollars with a coupon. After some digging and opening the box, it’s either late 90s or early 2000s.
Box – Q Logic QLH-1.2512SBE
Sub – Lanzar (“Made in the USA”), 400w, VS series.The box is sealed but has an option to be ported with 3 wood screws [unscrewed]. The subwoofer has a 4ohm rating printed on back, but that’s about it other than its front stamp, Lanzar, etc.
The sub has three small tears in the foam that I’m going to Shoe Goo. I was just curious if anyone had an idea of this sub’s RMS? I’m looking to buy an amp, but no way in hell am I spending more than $100. Probably not the forum to be asking audio advice but it’s worth a shot.
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It’s probably 200 watt rms, usually peak power is twice the rms. Figure out if it’s dial voice coil or single, that will tell you what kind of amp you will want to buy, depending on if it’s 4ohm, 2 or 1 ohm. Old sub like that with damage at 200 watt, I’d try maybe 2 ohm but not 1. 1 ohm would drive it too hard. 6 or 8 gauge wire will be plenty for it. Depends on the amp too though. I recommend knuconceptz, it’s what I put in all the cars I setup.
Thanks Suzuki! I finally took out the driver and it looks like a dual coil but the leads to the speaker have been soldered so it might just be a single coil? I shoe goo’d the foam tears and it sealed nicely and flexes pretty well surprisingly with finger pushes. I might have some free goodies (amp(s)) coming my way to test it soon so I’ll give you an update. However, even if a monoblock class D amp finds me, I’ll probably keep my setup at 4 ohms sealed. You brought me into another avenue of reading with 2 and more, pushing a 1ohm sub. Much to learn.
Once you get it all down its easy, I’ve been doing systems for people for a few years. Technology is always changing but the basics stay the same. Feel free to ask any other questions whether it be private message or here.
So happy you supported me with the car audio stuff. I’ve actually taken a lot of what I’ve learned reading about car audio, which is vast, into my home audio setup. The sky is the limit without spending boat loads of cash on a good soundstage. This goodwill single coil Lanzar is a wuss below 65Hz btw, but after sealing up the 3 foam tears with shoe goo and hooking up a 150w amp then tuning my entire system (this was key), it’s actually not too bad! The position of the enclosure was tough to figure out. It unfortunately sounds best dead center of my trunk. It’s my first sealed box, so maybe the box design is just a pile of poop to begin with. I had a problem with my front door speakers putting out an even sound because they’re at my lower legs, so I put more emphasis toward the front on my HU, turned up the gain on the sub amp, set the parametric equalizer settings on the HU by taste and things are working out for now.
Today I got a 4 gauge KnuKonceptz install kit and it’s going to open up doors for the best aftermarket audio in my beater I’ve had. Planning a two amp setup and most importantly, making sure everything in the trunk is mounted properly and looks nice, indiscreetly. I have to say that this hobby tickles my tit and makes me equally excited as shitting a nice clean log in the morning. This post is way too long.
Does your hu or amp have a low pass filter setting? As long as the stalked box has the proper amount of space for that sub, you’re good. What do you drive?
The HU has low pass subwoofer settings, but JVC decided not to update their firmware on the model so using the “Subwoofer” setting as opposed to “Rear” puts little to no juice to the sub. The amp has a LPF setting restricted to 80hz. Little too low for my taste but oh well. The box is an old school style Q Logic “hatchback”, 1.25 c.ft with an old Lanzar 12. I’d imagine if I had a bigger box that’s tuned correctly, the sub would sound better. I’m holding off until I attempt the fix on that Power Acoustik amp that’s broken. I was able to get the part from PA thankfully. I’m taking your advice by yanking the board and re-soldering the correct way. Should be a fun project 🙂
80 hz is where you want it, that’s where vocals are cut out, which you don’t want to go to your sub. If you need anymore help, I check here a few times a day
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