GM Ecotec 2.2 cyl Cam pulley bolts..

[Phil Grimsey]

Hi guys/Eric

A friend has recently bought a Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 over here in the UK. It’s a 2005 model with 24,000 miles on the clock. It was purchased as a non runner and what was found has basically shocked the living daylights out of me.

BAsically, upon investigation, the bolts that hold the camshaft pulleys/cogs onto the end of the camshaft have broken clean in two allowing the pulley to flop about! My friend reports that it would seem like the engine has NOT been worked on before in that area as all fasteners were present and correct without any “spanner rash” to be seen

Is this a common occurrence or has my friend managed to get a one off?

This engine is apparently used in Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Alero, Pontiac Sunfire and Grand Am and Saturn L-Series and VUE (not that any of those mean much to me!)

Cheers

Phil

Topic

[college man]

I have not read anything on the cam bolts snapping.
Big problems with the timing chains snapping.when the
chain broke.The chain may have wound/wedged itself in
between the cam gear and snapped it.

[Justin Farrington]

I am going to have to agree with College Man with his theory on what happened. I’ve done some extensive research on this particular series of engine (just finished rebuilding mine from the bottom up). But if the plan is to get it running, here are some of the things you will have to look at (assuming it will be done by your friend). From my personal experience, it’s easier to drop the engine and transmission as a whole.

When taking off the head, check the valves and make sure they are not bent (You can release the bearing bolts (10mm) to remove the camshafts and check the valves all at once. If you have compressed air, spray air down the exhaust/intake ports and feel for air (better than just your eye)). If the valves are flat, great. If not, it can run you anywhere from $8-25 a valve (depending on who you know and the source) plus machine work (for valve seating and grinding)).

After draining the oil, open the timing cover. Check the guides. If any are loose, check the bolt holes holding them in (all bolts for the guides are 10mm), the threads may be stripped (the heli-coil pack for this issue will be a m6x1). If a guide is broken, replace it and check the threads just to be safe. If it’s a guide for the timing chain specifically, a timing chain kit (I’ve seen them for about $150 from a part store) should come with new guides, cam sprockets, cam bolts, tensioner, oiler, and the chain. Chances are you will have to get new camshafts. I don’t know the price of the stock cams, but you can upgrade your cams from Comp Cams for about $500. Then timing chain tensioner is a pain to get out but it uses a 30mm socket/wrench. All the guide bolts are torqued to 89 inch lbs and the tensioner is torqued to 56-60 ft lbs (I don’t remember the cam gear bolt or bearing bolt torque off the top of my head).

This should help you figure out what to do or what has to be done to fix it. It’s most likely going to be under $1000 to fix it.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”pittspeng” post=56950]I am going to have to agree with College Man with his theory on what happened. I’ve done some extensive research on this particular series of engine (just finished rebuilding mine from the bottom up). But if the plan is to get it running, here are some of the things you will have to look at (assuming it will be done by your friend). From my personal experience, it’s easier to drop the engine and transmission as a whole.

When taking off the head, check the valves and make sure they are not bent (You can release the bearing bolts (10mm) to remove the camshafts and check the valves all at once. If you have compressed air, spray air down the exhaust/intake ports and feel for air (better than just your eye)). If the valves are flat, great. If not, it can run you anywhere from $8-25 a valve (depending on who you know and the source) plus machine work (for valve seating and grinding)).

After draining the oil, open the timing cover. Check the guides. If any are loose, check the bolt holes holding them in (all bolts for the guides are 10mm), the threads may be stripped (the heli-coil pack for this issue will be a m6x1). If a guide is broken, replace it and check the threads just to be safe. If it’s a guide for the timing chain specifically, a timing chain kit (I’ve seen them for about $150 from a part store) should come with new guides, cam sprockets, cam bolts, tensioner, oiler, and the chain. Chances are you will have to get new camshafts. I don’t know the price of the stock cams, but you can upgrade your cams from Comp Cams for about $500. Then timing chain tensioner is a pain to get out but it uses a 30mm socket/wrench. All the guide bolts are torqued to 89 inch lbs and the tensioner is torqued to 56-60 ft lbs (I don’t remember the cam gear bolt or bearing bolt torque off the top of my head).

This should help you figure out what to do or what has to be done to fix it. It’s most likely going to be under $1000 to fix it.[/quote]

This about covers it. Keep us posted on what you find.

[Phil Grimsey]

Hi,

The rebuild bill was not justified as he can’t do the work himself and TBH I doubt I would have the time or ability to. The resolution to this was that the engine is being swapped out for one from a breakers yard.

It seems to me though that the more modern cars get, the worse things like this are to repair.

Cheers

Phil

[college man]

Thanks for the update. 😉

[Author]

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