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I am in the process of adding additional instrumentation to my 2013 Camaro 2LS and am curious if anyone has had any experience with GlowShift gauges.
GlowShift Gauges – http://www.glowshiftdirect.com
My desire is to add four (4) additional gauges; gauge series – Tinted Gauges:
Vacuum – http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinted-vacuum-gauge.aspx
Coolant Temp – http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinted-water-temperature-gauge.aspx
Fuel Pressure (100 psi) – http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinted-100psi-fuel-pressure-gauge.aspx
Air/Fuel Ratio (Narrow Band) – http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinted-air-fuel-ratio-needle-gauge.aspxI have already purchased the gauge pods from Ortiz Custom Pods – http://www.ortizcustompods.com
Pod 1 – Pillar; two (2) 52mm gauges
Pod 2 – Cluster; two (2) 52mm gaugesThe four OEM gauges; Oil Pressure, Volt, Oil Temp and Trans Temp are already installed in the OEM location on the center console.
Any input is welcome, thanks.
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I have autometer gauges myself, but glowshift ones are just fine. I think the autometer stuff matches better with my theme, that’s why I went with them.
I think the narrow-band O2 is a big waste. Personally I use a wideband (bosch lsu 4.2)
Nice thing for me is I use my wideband with my laptop to log my AFRs and adjusting my timing/fuel injection pulsewidth.
narrow band won’t really tell you anything useful.
I am on the fence between Autometer and GlowShift; Autometers are made in USA not far from Chicago. If going with wideband I will need to install two gauges one for each exhaust header. Using the narrow I could tap the 0-5V going to the ECM, but it is not as accurate as the wideband.
The other option I have been considering is going with Pyrometer or EGT gauges. I think it is important to have some indication of what is coming out of exhaust, but which will give a better indication of a problem, widebands or exhaust temperature?
I know for sure the water temp and vacuum are going in; the OEM temp gauge is useless and my father put vacuum gauges in every car so I understand the value in the information they provide.
Thanks for your input, many heads are always better than just one.
[quote=”BigDanIL279″ post=148318]I am on the fence between Autometer and GlowShift; Autometers are made in USA not far from Chicago. [/quote]
Don’t forget about getting support for the products. It’s easy to call up autometer and get a person. If you are doing something strange or have questions or need help – you will be speaking to someone you can understand, and quickly.
[quote=”BigDanIL279″ post=148318] If going with wideband I will need to install two gauges one for each exhaust header. Using the narrow I could tap the 0-5V going to the ECM, but it is not as accurate as the wideband. [/quote]
The narrowband will show you the switching. Narrow bad is like the old fable about the pourage that is either too hot or too cold. They aren’t linear over the scale of the AFR so they can only tell “when the pourage is too hot or too cold”. You can monitor the switching, but besides that it won’t really tell you anything useful once the engine has warmed up and the ECU is not purposely running rich.
[quote=”BigDanIL279″ post=148318]
The other option I have been considering is going with Pyrometer or EGT gauges. I think it is important to have some indication of what is coming out of exhaust, but which will give a better indication of a problem, widebands or exhaust temperature?[/quote]In my line of work if I see EGT too high, I’ve already done damage and I’m about to remove the rotating assembly. Widebands are much better – I wouldn’t even think of trying to tune with EGT.
[quote=”BigDanIL279″ post=148318]
I know for sure the water temp and vacuum are going in; the OEM temp gauge is useless and my father put vacuum gauges in every car so I understand the value in the information they provide.[/quote]Agree 100%.
Come to think about it – don’t you think oil pressure would be more important than fuel pressure?
Oil pressure was the first thing I did. Lucky I have a nice plug that’s not used in my filter housing so I could use a 1/8 NPT fitting with a braided cable with the sender mounted on my firewall.
One thing I don’t like is that autometer does not make a vacuum/boost gauge that goes from vacuum to 35psi.
The OEM 4 gauge pack does include the oil pressure, volt, oil temp and trans temp already installed and plugs directly into the ECM. It was a $400 investment, but well worth the money and the install was very easy.
Oh – does it actually measure the oil pressure though or does it just move the needle to the “good” range when you start it? Sometimes these gauges behave like “dummy lights”.
If you are getting true oil pressure / temp and trans temp that’s sweet.
I do not have trans temperature yet but I want to do this next. I need to find a good place to mount the sender on my trans. The transmission is probably the weakest part of my setup and the failures are usually heat related.
I use a boost/vacuum gauge, a LED 52mm shift-light “gauge”, oil pressure, oil temperature, voltage, wideband, fuel pressure, and ethanol content gauge myself.
All the gauges display the real-time levels from the OEM senders reporting to the computer. It is a single wire connection from the computer to the cluster so my guess is they are using I2C to update the gauges.
The OEM water temp gauge is a standard C——H that seems to have one position when in operation, which is strange since when viewing live data via the ODB2 the actual temp is displayed.
The trans temp gauge on the Camaro is in the housing just above the sump pan submerged in the trans fluid. The trans is sealed which makes no sense, but some accountant figured out by not having a dipstick over X number of units saves a ton of money. The sump pan does not even have a drain plug, the pan needs to be dropped to drain so one large pan is required. I have thought about installing a drain myself to permit most of the fluid to be drained before dropping the pan to change the filter. The fill port is about half way up the side of housing, with a level check plug in the bottom of the pan.
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