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Hey, Guys.. I replaced both my front calipers and brake hose from autozone and I even bleed the both sides and brake fluid flowed easily. Well, A few weeks go by and all of a sudden the the start locking up after 10 minutes of driving!?! What do you all think it could be? I know its the caliper piston sticking but I wonder if something else is causing my caliper to lock up?? Again I bled the brakes and I know they are fine, and brake fluid flows out very easily.. So I know the lines not cloged up. Or do you think the brake fluid is braking down when the brakes get hot and not getting into the caliper? Any thoughts or ideas?? Also I replaced the hoses also when I replaced the caliper.. So I cant figure out why its locking up and binding?!
Thanks, James :blink:
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Both calipers are doing this and it started at both (front?) wheels at the same time? Also, what make model and year of vehicle?
A brake hose that is collapsing could give you that problem but it is weird that both would faill in the same time.
Are you using proper brake fluid. If by any chance there is p/s fluid or engine fluid for instance …. it swell the rubber and cause the master to fail or caliper will stick…. Some people experience lost of pedal… sinking to the floor… or the brake will drag the hotter they get. if they are at point they are lock up removing the bolt that hold the booster to the master would confirm that.
Stick with the basic.. is it all wheel or only the front one when it occur? Is the pad are free of movement when cold? How does the pedal feels like before and after repair?
K!
When the the car is cold and not ran for a few hours, its fine.. But when I start to drive it, then it starts to stick.. I was thinking that I didnt use silicion grease on the caliper pins, but that crappy autozone grease they sell at the counter. Also, Im using autozone brake fluid. I assume that all vehicles use the same brake fluid. My vehicle is a 2003 saturn vue 3.0 v6
The first thing I’d want to do is pop the bleeder when the brake is locked. If there is pressure there (fluid squirts out) then it is not the caliper. No pressure means a caliper issue.
However, I have no interest in being anywhere near hot brakes. The alternative is to look for an under hood fitting upstream but after the abs and crack it open testing for pressure.
What do you mean by under the hood fitting? Are you saying to check the brake line going to the master cylinder? Wonder if I should replace the brake line?? But th thing is that it doesn’t leak? Plus it bleeds fine when its cold.
Well, there are two possibilities:
1. The caliper pistons are sticking in their bores
2. Brake fluid pressure is holding the brakes in the on condition
3. I guess there’s a third possibility and that is there is something whacky with the installation of the caliper, for example pads that are too thick.Anyway the test I was suggesting is to determine between 1. and 2. If the brake pedal is not depressed there should be no pressure going to the caliper. No pressure and brakes locked = problem with the caliper. Otherwise the problem is elsewhere.
The problem is opening the bleeder when the brakes are hot. So, I was suggesting looking for another place where the same line could be cracked opened enough to revel whether pressure was present.
I would say check your installation. You may have the brake hose twisted or something. If I read you correctly you replaced them so they should be fine. This leaves installation. I don’t think it’s the master cylinder because that would normally effect only one side. Another thought is that there is an issue with the brake pedal height but that’s remote. I would focus on the new additions of the calipers. I would find it hard to believe that you have 2 bad ones. I think it’s more likely to be something with your installation that’s causing the problem. More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks Eric, Im glad to hear what your saying. I had thoughts on what went wrong and even thought of a brake booster. I think its the caliper slides, I used caliper grease sold at the store, But will now use caliper silicon grease you recommend. Also, The pad ate into my rotor so I have to put new rotors and pads on.
Make sure the brake hoses aren’t twisted or anything causing a restriction. Just for the heck of it, pull up on the brake pedal. If it comes up at all when you do this, there may be an issue with pedal height. What I mean when I say that is that it might be that your brakes are applied for some reason as you drive. I would think this would also effect the rear brakes but you haven’t mentioned that yet. Most braking systems are designed in what is called a ‘split diagonal’, meaning that the RF and LR brakes are connected in one part of the master cylinder and the LF and RR brakes are controlled by the opposite chamber. Therefore if you have a master cylinder issue it usually effects the wheels on opposite sides of the car front to back. It seems you have an issue with both front brakes which is odd given this information. Therefore I suspect something with the installation or perhaps faulty parts that are the cause of this problem.
Please keep us posted on your progress.
Well, I took off the rotors since they are warped, caliper and bracket on both sides. I first did the passenger side and the brake hose was dripping so I put a vice grip on it like you did in your video, with a old rubber hose attached to the teeth of the vice grip. Then, I went to the driver side and when I disconnected the hose to the caliper It wasnt dripping.Hmmm, So I unhooked the rubber hose to the brake line, to see if it was the hose or the brake line and sure enough the brake line wasnt dripping.. So, I pressed on the brake pedal and fluid came out. So, Im wonder if its my master cylinder has gone bad??? But if it was the master cylinder than my brakes would feel spongy. Also, as you mentioned eric about the brake pedal being pulled up to high? I remember one time when I was driving I knocked out the brake switch when I accidently pulled up on the brake pedal, but I replaced the the brake switch and reinstalled it. I So any ideas why it isnt dripping freely?? Also, the Back drums seem fine, I will double check and make sure that I can bleed them. But yea, I didnt mention the rear drums because I assumed they worked fine, I even pulled it on the emergency brake and I can feel them brake and then release them when I put it down, So I ruled them out of the equation.. But No drip on the driver side brake line, any thoughts or ideas would be awesome.. 🙂 Then I was thinking, If it could be something with my ABS system on my suv? This is a 2003 saturn vue 3.0 v6
Off to work 🙁
Stay dirty! James
I was actually talking about the brake pedal being too low which would be like driving with your foot on the brake. Sometimes this happens if there’s an issue with the return spring inside the brake booster. As for the brake line not dripping, it’s hard to say. Fluid did come out when you depressed the brake pedal so that should mean it’s OK I would think. Fluid won’t always drip out every time you crack open a bleeder. It could indicate a problem, but I’m not sure what. Possibly something with the ABS since that is what does the proportioning in the system.
Back to the brake pedal. If you can pull up on the brake pedal and you have significant movement, this might be the problem. The brake pedal should not have any upward movement when it’s in it’s rest position. If it does move, it could be the spring in the brake booster I spoke of or another return spring on the pedal or something. Also, if you installed a brake switch and got it too tight this could also be the issue. Once again, it would be like driving with the brakes on if it was bottomed out too much. You might want to recheck your adjustment on that also.
Keep us posted.
Thanks Eric,
Actually I did install a new brake switch, because I remember one time I was driving home from work and my abs and brake light was coming on and off randomly. So I thought my brakes were sticking so I pulled up on it and popped out my brake switch, which left my brake lights on so, I replaced it.
I pulled up on my brake pedal and there is no movement.. I emailed a friend of mine who helps us Saturn owners and I told him that I seen that my brake lines run into a abs box then two lines to the master cylinder.
So, What Im going to do is replace my brake rotor and pads and bleed both sides as best I can and Im going to tow it to a service garage. I thought of a dealership but I felt that dealerships might charge my too much. I just hope and pray that its NOT my ABS control module..
Here is what my buddy found with his online GM service manual.
If you have ABS – the metal pipe (from each wheel) goes to ABS valve assembly – which is between master cylinder and each wheel … extract follows:
The valve assembly provides brake fluid pressure modulation for each of the individual wheel circuits, as required, during an ABS/TCS event. During an ABS event, the valve assembly can maintain or reduce brake fluid pressure that is applied by the master cylinder. The valve assembly cannot increase pressure beyond what is applied by the master cylinder (driver). The valve assembly contains a motor-driven pump, ABS inlet and outlet valves, as well as TCS prime and isolation valves. With exception of the ABS control module (EBTCM), the valve assembly is not serviceable and should never be disassembled.
The valve assembly is controlled by ABS Control Module … extract follows:
The ABS control module monitors the speed of each wheel to detect wheel slip. If wheel slip is detected, the module commands the appropriate valve positions in the valve assembly to modulate brake pressure in some or all of the hydraulic circuits. This action prevents wheel slip and provides optimum braking. In addition, the ABS control module performs a continuous diagnostic routine to detect malfunctions. If the module detects an electrical malfunction, it can disable ABS/TCS/DRP, illuminate the appropriate telltale and store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).
The ABS control module contains a solenoid for each ABS/TCS valve it operates and a relay for the solenoid circuit and pump motor circuit respectively. The relays and solenoids are not serviceable.
Well, this one is for sure out of my league… Eric thank you for all your time and dedication for helping us guys save some money and do it ourselves..
Stay Dirty!
James 🙂
I’m happy to help. Honestly, I don’t think it’s the ABS. If it was, I would think you would have other symptoms. That said, keep us posted on how things go and good luck.
Just try changing the master cylinder. They’re not expensive and it’s fixed my perplexing braking problems, every time.
Master cylinders often “go bad” on you right after you replace pads, as pushing the caliper pistons back pushes the master cylinder piston back too, so its seals are running over old dirty and unlubed parts of the master cylinder wall, and that often wrecks the seal. The “right” way to do this would be to somehow lube the master cylinder above the seal before letting it push back up, but I’ve never heard of anybody being that thorough.
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